Pulled 85VMX out of storage and stripped.

Hello everyone, I'm looking for some advice on what to look for while I go through restoring my 85max. The bike went into storage in great shape about 12 years ago and came out of storage looking almost as good. Most of the Aluminum parts plus the engine has corrosion. I blasted the entire engine and most of the Aluminum parts and refinished them. Before taking the engine to paint I want to make sure I didn't miss something that should be done or looked at. Should I take the engine apart. I do have a complete gasket kit if I need it. The engine run great before putting the bike away. I do know that the carbs will need a thorough cleaning. I have new slides and diaphragms.

Right now, I'm concerned about junk in the engine that may cause problems later. I have the regular new parts like oil filter, gas filter, air filter, plugs.

Any advice would be great. I don't have a shop and I'm not a mechanic but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty and I do have a good supply of tools.

Thanks everyone.

No need to take it all the way apart. If it's out you can put all new cover gaskets on, a few simple seals (the clutch push rod and shift shaft), then flip the pan and look inside. I am sure it will be cleaner then you expect it to be.

You can update to one of our HD oiling kits or even something from COO (or even used together). DD spring update. Shift Segment update. Solid Mounts are all things that you can consider while it's out. Adjust the valves too which are simple and I can even send a loaner kit to do it with.

Sean Morley

Thanks Sean, I do have solid motor mounts to install. Sorry, not too interested in the HD oiling kit. To tell you the truth, I don't ride hard enough to need more pressure. I know enough never to redline it before the oil is nice and hot/thin.

DD spring and shift segment updates sounds interesting. I'll search the board for this info. Do you sell the parts (if any)?

I actually adjusted the values 12 years ago before storing the bike. I don't see any reason for the valves to be out of adjustment, do you? I'll check them all again for good measure but I'm hoping nothing changed.

one2dmax said:

DD spring update. Shift Segment update.
Sean Morley

Click to expand...

I found the how-to information for these 2 mods. However, can someone explain why these mods are necessary. I can't tell from the install instructions exactly what these mods are fixing or improving. How do these mods manifest themselves to the riding experience?

The stock clutch slips quite a bit which the DD mod takes care of. The segment doesn't need to be fixed until you have a pin fall out but you could preclude that and fix it before it happens. When it fails you are unable to shift past the gear that the pin falls out from. The fix can be done with the engine in the bike too.

The HD oiling raises peak pressure only a little bit but the advantage is oiling under load and idle. Of course you can check the o-ring if you are going to replace the pan gasket anyway.

Sean

Here is some info on the shift segment (a sticky).
I have the DD clutch and like the feel of the stronger clutch, feels more responsive once engaged. I find myself having to be careful with my throttle inputs at low speeds as the clutch really hooks up.
Early on when I first had it installed made me look a little foolish cornering through a intersection and I get a little wheelie at just the wrong moment.:damn angry:
It's all good now, the lever pull is not as bad as I thought it would be but I don't have to sit in traffic with it.
I have the HD oiling from Sean as well and may install the Cycle one off pop stopper this winter just to add a little piece of mind since my OP gauge is acting up.

Hexec, I reckon I am not the only person that might be interested to know if the O-ring has bulged out or not. I took one engine apart and it was bulged. Now I am scheduling the inspection of the O-ring on the other two. Please let us know when you remove the oil pan. Thanks

Again, I'm not a mechanic. I've never worked on this engine before. Is it safe to roll the engine on its side or upside down to gain access to the pan. Or, do you hoist the the engine up over your head to work on the underside?

I think I will do the DD clutch mod and the segment mod. Are there parts to order for the DD clutch mod? Can I buy them local in Canada or are they only available in the US. To tell you the truth, I hate ordering from the US because it takes so long to arrive. I can get parts from the UK or Asia within a few days and from the US it takes weeks.

I need to find a good source for Yammy parts. The dealers hear in Toronto are rape artists IMO.

adamax said:

Hexec, I reckon I am not the only person that might be interested to know if the O-ring has bulged out or not. I took one engine apart and it was bulged. Now I am scheduling the inspection of the O-ring on the other two. Please let us know when you remove the oil pan. Thanks

Click to expand...

Will let you know when I have the bottom opened up (likely this weekend).

I supply pretty much about everything but you can get the parts from your local Yamaha dealer (or anyone selling those parts). Other then making a mess you can roll the engine safely upside down without any problems. Use a large catch pan to get any contained coolant and oil that will leak out.

Sean

Thanks again Sean.

Alright, here's my parts list so far:

shift segment parts
4NK-18185-00-00 SEGMENT Qty: 1
93604-12037-00 PIN, DOWEL Qty: 5
93604-16092-00 PIN, DOWEL Qty: 1

DD Clutch parts
1FK-16334-00-00 SPRING Qty 2
26H-16307-01-00 FRICTION PLATE Qty 8
26H-16324-00-00 CLUTCH PLATE Qty 7

Here's a good DD Clutch mod/replacement guide with lots of pics.
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

hexec said:

Thanks again Sean.

Alright, here's my parts list so far:

shift segment parts
4NK-18185-00-00 SEGMENT Qty: 1
93604-12037-00 PIN, DOWEL Qty: 5
93604-16092-00 PIN, DOWEL Qty: 1

DD Clutch parts
1FK-16334-00-00 SPRING Qty 2
26H-16307-01-00 FRICTION PLATE Qty 8
26H-16324-00-00 CLUTCH PLATE Qty 7

Here's a good DD Clutch mod/replacement guide with lots of pics.
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

Click to expand...

$60 - Segment Upgrade Includes Clutch Cover gasket, pins, segment, and bolt.

$100 DD modification - 1 clutch plate, 1 spring, and gasket.

Deduct $7 for duplicate gasket if both ordered together. The stock friction plates should still be fine if they were good before but if it sat for a really long time then you might consider replacing them only to prevent them from disintegration. They run $10 per plate (you'd need a total of 8 so one is in the price of the dd mod already). I should have it all on hand but it's been awhile since I checked stock on the segment parts.

Sean

Sean, just to clarify.

In a non DD Clutch there are 8 friction plates, 7 clutch plates, 1 half clutch plate, and 1 spring.

The DD mod replaces the half clutch plate with a full 8th plate and also adds a 2nd spring.

Your post is a little confusing. When you say that I should replace all of the friction plates did you really mean the clutch plates because you go on to say that one is included in the kit.

1 FRICTION plate is included with the DD mod kit. Not a clutch plate (steel).

The DD mod replaces the half sized friction plate with a full sized friction plate. You also remove the wire retainer from the clutch basket as well as the clutch boss spring and spring seat.

There is no alteration of the clutch plates (steel plates) in the DD mod. Although it is a good time to bead blast them. Or at least clean them up with some scotch brite.

Above is correct. You need a total of 8 friction plates (7 full and 1 half) and 7 steels. You can do the upgrade by simply replacing the 1 half plate with a full (and taking out the other noted wire and boss spring/seat parts). Then adding the second spring on top of the first

Hexec, not sure if you've seen this link before or not. It details the DD Mod pretty well

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

one2dmax said:

$60 - Segment Upgrade Includes Clutch Cover gasket, pins, segment, and bolt.

$100 DD modification - 1 clutch plate, 1 spring, and gasket.

Deduct $7 for duplicate gasket if both ordered together. The stock friction plates should still be fine if they were good before but if it sat for a really long time then you might consider replacing them only to prevent them from disintegration. They run $10 per plate (you'd need a total of 8 so one is in the price of the dd mod already). I should have it all on hand but it's been awhile since I checked stock on the segment parts.

Sean

Click to expand...

Hi Sean, I want to buy some parts from you. Just checked with my local dealer and they don't have stock so it will take a minimum of 2 weeks closer to 4 weeks.

I want to do the DD clutch mod the segment mod.

This is what I already have.

I have the gasket, 8 clutch plates.

I need the segment, pins, bolt. I also need the clutch spring.

Have you ever shipping to Canada before?

I'm not going to do the oil pressure mod. I will check the o-ring. If its bulged then I will replace the o-ring and shave a couple mm off the elbow to allow it to seat deeper and away from the beveled area that created the bulge in the first place. Only if its bulged, of course.

I'll check my value clearances this weekend and if I need to make some adjustment, I'll post the results so you can add spacers to the purchase, if I need any.

I'll let you know how i make out on Sunday.

Does this make sense?

Take a look at the picture. The new style pipe and o-ring on the left. This allows the o-ring to sit further into the opening and away from the beveled edge where its slipping out from. I figure that the proper fix is to shave a couple mm off of the old pipe to allow it to sink deeper into the opening. It will now need an equal amount of thickness added to the retainer on the top to ensure it stays down deep.

edit: added another pic I found on the net to show the bevel on the outside of the opening. Obviously, the rubber plug needs to be made larger if the pipe is shaved to sink deeper.

Ok, got a few things done this weekend.

1. Fixed o-ring bulge
2. pulled out the clutch and segment
3. measured valve clearances

I had a hell of a time taking the timing cover off to test value clearances only to find that I could not find the T1, T2, T3, and T4 marks on the flywheel. That was a waist of time. The way I tested value clearance was to find the largest gap as I spun the cam around. All 16 valves are easily within spec. Cool, don't have to worry about that anymore.

I still need some parts for the clutch and segment mod (I'll get in touch with Sean for that). But, the clutch is out and waiting. I can move forward and continue working on other parts of the engine before prep'ing for paint.

The bulging o-ring issue was fixed. See the jpg pic. I shaved a couple mm off the the elbow and as you can see it fits really nicely into the opening now. I changed the red o-ring with what appeared to be a stiffer rubber o-ring that came in my gasket kit. In fact, I took the time to replace most of the o-rings under the pan and oil pump area. Most were old and flat. A couple old o-rings went to good use as spaces for the rubber topper on the elbow. You can't see it in the pic but the rubber elbow retainer that does a poor job of holding the elbow in place is sitting a little higher due to the o-rings underneath. Also, notice that I wrapped a hose clamp around the chasy and the elbow to hold the elbow from popping out. I first formed the clamp so it would fit a bit better before tightening. I was paying attention to not over tighten the clamp because it would easily crush the elbow. There is very little room for any sort of camp or hold down device on the left of the elbow. So, I used a large flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to form the clamp a little tighter around the tube. This worked like a charm. That o-ring will never pop or bulge out now. If anyone wants to use a hose clamp make sure you get a 2" clamp and route it so the adjustment is on the right side of the elbow (bottom in the pic).

You have to look back inboard from the site hole to see the markings. Sometimes it's difficult until you see it the first time. There is only a T1 and T2 marking.