It's pretty much up to you how much money you want to spend for things not needed. Others will disagree strongly with me but first of all Yamaha does NOT specify to use anything other than good quality car oil. Also there was a writeup done recently on all the different oils and what's best. They concluded that there is no one oil any better than the next, of the major brands. It doesn't have to be synthetic or bike specific oil. Usually people will want to be extra good to their bike and hear that the more expensive oils are better. Bull, just go by the manual because it was written by those that know what they are talking about and not some back yard mechanic that's superstitious. Just my opinion.markmax said:
This information should be posted for all to see so the BEST OIL myth can be dispelled once and for all. Perhaps we need a place (FAQ?) to clarify a few untruths about the Max where new members can inform themselves and know they are getting the straight scoop. The Furbur Fix is another confusing and down right wrong way to fix the real problem and who hasn't heard of the dreaded "0" ring problem? I was hoping that Sean would find the time to look deeper into this situation, since he works on a lot of Max engines and is a strait shooter. Life is tough enough without chasing ghosts.one2dmax said:
markmax said:
ViciousCycle said:
I'm running same as you and will also change to perhaps 10-40 over the winter. You shouldn't worry about the thickness of the oil. I notice no difference in pressure on my oil gage and you know yourself that when the oil is cold, it will act like a 20 wt, which is not too heavy for warm weather months and the 50 wt is a plus when it gets hot. In the future I plan on sticking with a 10-40 for all year driving and will only use a good brand of car oil. The "old man" drives with 20-50 all year, but then he lives in ahhhhhh what's the name of that state next to Mexico that's being overrun by the Home Boys? Ohhhhyea, Texas. Just kidding here.Calimus said:
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