R1 calipers

Sweetwilliebrownjr · May 18, 2010

Thinking about upgrading the brakes. I've got an 05. What year r1 calipers will fit, and does it require different pads than stock? Any other helpful info would be appreciated as well.

vmaximum · May 18, 2010

willie, alot of good info under the brakes section answering all your questions, here is 1 thread i found but there are multiple threads about them. the r1 must be 03 i beleive off the top of my head and they will only work on pre 93 vmax forks.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=6365

PATMAX · May 18, 2010

Re: R1 calipers retro fit

Say hey Willie. I'm thinking 1999 through 2003 R1 calipers are exact fit in 1993 (big tube) forks and later. Pre 93 require a relocation bracket. Pads are stock R1 pads. Think about stainless brake lines while your at it! Morley Muscle has everything you need. Patmax
PS. Right front R1 caliper is also plug and play on the rear too!

Sweetwilliebrownjr · May 18, 2010

I see Sean offers busa calipers and brackets. What has to be done for this? Because It seems
like a better option.

one2dmax · May 18, 2010

Busa parts are for the early forks. I occasionally have some direct bolt on 6 piston calipers but am out of stock at the moment. They are very hard to find and I only get a set or two a year. Most will be happy with the R1's that were noted. I do also believe the warrior calipers as well as maybe even the raider may work.

Sean

Sweetwilliebrownjr · May 18, 2010

Are r6 calipers the same.

Diablotin · May 19, 2010

I'm using the blue dot R1/R6 calipers, but it requested an adapter.

one2dmax · May 19, 2010

The R1/R6/Warrior NON-Radial calipers are all direct bolt on's for 93-07 Vmax's. If the bolts are through the side into the fork then it's the same. The radial (monoblock) calipers have the bolts passing downward into the fork and will not fit.

Sean

06VMAXIMUS · May 19, 2010

Sean, whats the difference between an R1 caliper and the late Vmax? Both are 4 piston, so it has to be the diameter of the pistons is larger......or ???? I guess I am wondering why you would want to change them?

one2dmax · May 19, 2010

The vmax/fzr calipers are cast. The R1/R6 and milled. Little bit better control of tolerances and I think the passages are just a little tighter. I haven't checked the bore of the pistons but that may be the biggest difference if there is any.

Sean

Sweetwilliebrownjr · May 25, 2010

How is a right front r1 caliper plug and play on the rear when the bolt holes are about 3/4 of an inch further apart on the r1s?

one2dmax · May 25, 2010

We are discussing the front calipers for 93-07 forks. To use it on the rear requires a custom brake stay (and rotor) or maybe even a custom adapter from Jedi (we don't make that particular adapter though we have made one for the busa 6 piston rear use.)

Sean

Diablotin · May 25, 2010

6 pistons on the rear ? it might break really strong

naughtyG · May 25, 2010

Yea. I just fitted a wave rotor on the rear, and with the OEM caliper, S/S line and HH pads I'm having to readjust my foot pressure quite a bit - I keep locking the rear wheel and screeching the tire!

The rear brake is most definitely well strong enough as it was - I only put the wave rotor on to match the fronts so it's just a cosmetic thing really..

one2dmax · May 25, 2010

Need to ask Dave (Yukonerdave) and see how well it works for him. I am not sure but the theory was it should take more lever travel but less effort thus giving a better "feel" and taking away the harshness when you hit the pedal.

Sean

Sweetwilliebrownjr · May 25, 2010

Well, with some cutting, grinding and alot of 3M scotch Brite pads, I actually made the front stock caliper fit the rear. I had to basically make a second small brake stay and cut the top caliper bolt hole out and bridge from the caliper to the original brake stay with the new one. It was around 2 inches long. Also a bit of work spent on grinding the face where the bottom bolt goes in for the small amount of clearance needed. It works great, but I still want one of the custom setups to make it look cleaner.

WYp8riot · May 27, 2010

How do I remove the rear rotor?

What are the steps?

PATMAX · May 27, 2010

Up on centerstand, pull the axle half way out. Unbolt caliper and hang it out of the way, pull the rotor bolts, tap rotor with rubber mallet. It should drop right out or should I say fall off. No need to drop wheel off the differential. Don't forget to pay attention to any washers between brake mount, wheel, swingarm

naughtyG · May 28, 2010

PATMAX said:
Up on centerstand, pull the axle half way out. Unbolt caliper and hang it out of the way, pull the rotor bolts, tap rotor with rubber mallet. It should drop right out or should I say fall off. No need to drop wheel off the differential. Don't forget to pay attention to any washers between brake mount, wheel, swingarm

I say good luck pulling the rotor bolts without dropping the wheel..

I used an impact driver with the correct bit and they still wouldn't come out! The blue loctite seizes pretty bad with age. I needed to use a center punch and hammer to get them out, and they all needed replacing. :confused2:

Diablotin · May 28, 2010

naughtyG said:
Yea. I just fitted a wave rotor on the rear, and with the OEM caliper, S/S line and HH pads I'm having to readjust my foot pressure quite a bit - I keep locking the rear wheel and screeching the tire!

The rear brake is most definitely well strong enough as it was - I only put the wave rotor on to match the fronts so it's just a cosmetic thing really..

I did the same

R1 calipers

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