85 Drag Bike Project

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

hubeerjw

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
1,425
Reaction score
1
Location
Wellman, IA
Well, some of you know that I am in the process of building a drag bike (or trying to anyway) I removed the stock motor (that was locked up) and started to tear into it. I was planning on using my 1300 Venture motor, but I wanted to see how bad the VMax motor was. I now have it cleaned up enough to turn over all the way, but I think the front left cylinder is trashed. The bike came with an extra frame as it was in a wreck and the PO purchased a bunch of parts to fix it up, but never did. Anyway, I didn't think the frame was bent, but after tearing into it, the front left frame post was touching the valve cover. I think I might use the other frame after all.
Here are some pictures of what I found in the motor and just some pics of my garage... it's gonna be a long winter!
 

Attachments

  • P1010001.jpg
    P1010001.jpg
    97.1 KB
  • P1010002.jpg
    P1010002.jpg
    88.4 KB
  • P1010003.jpg
    P1010003.jpg
    93.2 KB
  • P1010004.jpg
    P1010004.jpg
    84 KB
  • P1010005.jpg
    P1010005.jpg
    82.1 KB
  • P1010006.jpg
    P1010006.jpg
    78.7 KB
  • P1010007.jpg
    P1010007.jpg
    96.3 KB
  • P1010008.jpg
    P1010008.jpg
    90 KB
  • P1010009.jpg
    P1010009.jpg
    63.6 KB
Looks like a lot of work / money involved there....
I would clean the engine up, strip all the wiring, powder coat everything black, weld in a 2qt fuel cell, get one of Seans 3in over swingarms have him mod a battery box in it and air seal it for air supply for an air shifter and weld some wheelibar tabs on it.
and buy one of them slider clutches for 600.00 overall.......

Stripped VMAX,
3in over swingarm
Slider clutch
wheelie bar
stock oem rim modded for a 6in slick
air shifter
crossover delay box
shift light
2 step igntion

Money Money Money

Get a credit card but dont tell your wife, and a po box is handy LOL or first buy a new soft sleeper couch :rofl_200:

Ahhh the days of building a dragbike, knock yourself out
 
Stripped VMAX, = DONE
3in over swingarm - Working with Morley on a swingarm
Slider clutch - Yep..need to get one of those
wheelie bar - Yep - hopefully Morley will be able to help me get one of these too
stock oem rim modded for a 6in slick - already have one
air shifter - this isn't needed right away, but will get one eventually any recommendations on which brand/model?
crossover delay box ....??? What is that???
shift light - got one
2 step igntion is there a way to use the dyna with a 2 step?

Lankee... you forgot one thing.....


The Turbo!!!!!! (and nitrous of course!)
 
To be honest Jeff,, if your just building a VMAX dragbike just cause you love VMAX's and they are orginal I wouldnt go for speed or breaking ETs.
If your wanting a dragbike at a reasonable cost.... look for a wrecked Hayabusa with a salvage title and buy the parts off ebay to fix it, slap some bars, air shifter and it will be faster than a turbo vmax and the most important thing,,, IT WILL STAY TOGETHER.

If you want to get into bracket racing buy an early model GSXR dragbike already built. MSD Ignition, Air Shifter, Slider Clutch bars and slick and you can win money with talent
 
Wow Jeff. I thought mine was in bad shape. Keep us posted on progress.
 
Well, I was working on cleaning up the 1300 Venture engine tonight. I removed the oil pan, and there it was buldging out... the orange o-ring. Looks like this engine is going to get one of Morley's Muscle O-rings! I also took some weights of various components if anyone is interested.... more to come.

85 Frame (bare) - 42lbs
Early model front rotor - 3lbs 4oz
2 front rotors w/bolts - 6lbs 14oz
85 Front wheel with a Bridgestone 110/90 18 wheel - 23lbs 15oz
85 Rear wheel with Dunlop 150/90 15 and rotor - 39lbs 12oz
Late model rear wheel with rotor and Firestone 6/26 15 drag slick - 39lbs 15oz
Late Model front wheel with a Dunlap tire - 27lbs 2.4 oz

Me - holding tight at 220lbs
 

Attachments

  • P1010070.jpg
    P1010070.jpg
    96.5 KB
Just Remember the 1300 venture engine only makes about 100 HP. I think the rods may be lighter also. You will need to use the Vmax heads on the Venture block if you want to make any power.

Good luck with your project.
 
Well today I decided to do some fit-up with the turbo to try and start getting things organized as far as what modifications I will need to make to get this thing to work. Here are a few pictures of it sitting on the 85 motor that is 1/2 way disassembled.
 

Attachments

  • P1010070.jpg
    P1010070.jpg
    81.4 KB
  • P1010071.jpg
    P1010071.jpg
    93.1 KB
  • P1010072.jpg
    P1010072.jpg
    83.5 KB
If I can get this thing to run like it should... I'll be the one needing the diaper! I sure do have a long road ahead! I'm still in the cleaning stages... I should keep track of how many cases of beer this project is going to take.
 
things are looking really awesome for the future of this bike cant wait to ride it. Ya I said it. I am gonna have to make a trip over there during your build to say I even help build it, lol Doing good at keeping up the posting. You really need to knife wedge and weld the crank. I will start to look for some rods that are not gonna put a whole in the wallet, Carillo rods are the way to go. You already got the tranny backcut dont you? keep me informed. Roy
 
There is nothing to weld on the crank. It doesn't use a pin system like many sportbikes. He's going to use stock stuff for now and see how much it can take!

Sean
 
Yep... like Morley said, I am going the cheap and easy route for now. I basically want to use this as a functional test motor. I want to get the thing up and running and get any bugs worked out before spending the $$ for a motor with forged pistons, rods, back-cut tranny, etc. I'm trying to take as many small steps as possible, but I keep wanting more and more. My wallet and my wife are both doing a very good job of holding me back. I'll take donations and will paint your name all over this thing if there are any takers????:clapping:
 
Yep... like Morley said, I am going the cheap and easy route for now. I basically want to use this as a functional test motor. I want to get the thing up and running and get any bugs worked out before spending the $$ for a motor with forged pistons, rods, back-cut tranny, etc. I'm trying to take as many small steps as possible, but I keep wanting more and more. My wallet and my wife are both doing a very good job of holding me back. I'll take donations and will paint your name all over this thing if there are any takers????:clapping:

Turbo with Nitrous...... I will donate a huggies if you dont put my name on it.
 
I'd like to offer a little advice... Build the bike so you can ride it on the street and go to the track when you want to.


  1. Use a turbo piston 8.5 to 1 compression ratio (thicker ring land and dome cross section) Why? Static compression ratio roughly doubles at 15 PSI boost ( you won't be happy with any less) and heat... lots of it with a turbo, I can give you the part no's if your interested.

    Chain drive... now you can ratio the final drive and lose a lot of weight
 
Thanks Gary, I would take part numbers if you want to send them to me. Like I posted earlier... money is tight and I basically want to prove the system first and take small steps. I would like to start looking ahead and getting things rounded up for the next engine, but I want to focus on getting this to be a running bike first. I would LOVE to have a chain drive and maybe someday I will. I really cant justify spending $2k on pistons and rods, then more for the chain drive etc. I'm just going to have fun with this and see where it takes me.
 
I'd like to offer a little advice... Build the bike so you can ride it on the street and go to the track when you want to



I am going to have to disagree with a street strip bike. I have been down that road and its a pain in the ***.
Either your riding to the strip on a dragslick and your wheelie bars up 8 inches off the ground looking like a goober.
Or you are on a sticky Shinko 003 compound trying to get your low et and you find yourself in a 11 oclock postion wheelie to find yourself slamming the front end back down to cause your nuts to wind up in your throat!

Either build a nice street bike that is comfortable to ride or a fun weekend warrior dragbike trailered to the track on a little 6x12 trailer with your tool box for tuning and have fun.

If you own a busa stretch the crap out of the swingarm, buy a high dollar rear shock and street and dragrace it.
VMAX, Either Dragbike, or Street bike, Or a ton of money your choice.
 
[
If you own a busa stretch the crap out of the swingarm, buy a high dollar rear shock and street and dragrace it.

Ya don't have to stretch them way out to really 60' them. High dollar rear shocks are nice, but for the budget rider the stocker is fine. Just gotta adjust it right. Can 60' them in the low, low 1.5's even sitting at stk wheelbase(58"), given some seat time and a good clutch hand.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top