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customizedcreationz

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I am curious to those that have 1500+cc engines how you ride them. Everyday, weekend only. Radical monster power making unreliable race only etc.

Can you ride it like a stock engine? Meaning how picky is it with you. Do you feel like you constantly have to tinker with it, or do you just hop on and ride it all over without a second thought?

I am tempted with a few different trains of thought here, but my bottom line is big big big.

I ve had big block cars, big diesel trucks, 500cc two stroke dirt bikes, 500 magnum handguns.... you name it. I am the dick that has to have the biggest baddest toys. I just love it. Can't help it.

So a 1500+ cc Vmax..... well it just seems natural. But what I don't want ( I must be getting old ) is a finicky setup that constantly needs attention before you ride anywhere.

So I am curious to what you guys have to say with your REAL experience, not HEARSAY information.

Thanks
Todd


PS pictures are always cool:biglaugh:
 
I am having a 1500 built as we speak up at PCW, looking to ride a couple of times aweek, heard they can be touchy to ride but should get use to
port, polish and cammed, undercut trans, 11.3-1 compression
 
518-346-7203 call john at PCW he builds them he could let you know all the info you want. He is really nice guy I talked to him before I bought my 1260.

http://www.pcwracing.net/

You should by budmoores if you have the money right now it will save you a fortune!!!!!!
 
A tourmaster style motor, basically just an overbore and mild beadwork, mild 03 cams. with the 11.3:1 compression and running Mikunis should not be finnicky.

I'm finishing up a bored, stroked, 13:1 1540cc right now.
If I had it to do over again I might of thought about pushing the bore out to tourmaster levels, in conjunction with my 5mm stroke job it would been around 1600cc!!
I've was informed the thicker cylinder walls of my 83mm bore versus the tourmasters bigger overbore should be less prone to overheating.

I'm thinking it's gonna be finnicky but with the same mild porting and mild cams the tourmaster runs driveability should still be ok. Inspite of the compression level.

I should be firing it up this weekend, I'll let you know how it goes.
 
In answer to your original question. I got mine up and running Saturday. I posted an initial review under "motor work"
So far no regrets, still tuning the carb setup tho.
It's stupid fast, I can't wait to dyno it. I'm expecting around 170-175 hp and 105-115 tq from what It feels like and compared to similar but milder builds.

It might be finnicky in that a bigger radiator could be needed to restore its versatility as a normal bike. I have no fear on the tuning once the bugs are worked out.
 
I know you asked for experienced only Todd but I'm gonna just add my $.02 anyway because I was thinking the same thing... I've decided when I do decide to build something else I'm going to keep it very mild, probably only in the 1300cc range and just get the compression up some and use mild 03 cams with some headwork... My line of thinking is I love riding my bike way too much to sacrifice the joy of just being able to toss my leg over it and ride... I figure even on a mild build like I'm talking I can probably comfortably run mid 10's if I do my part but the real performance will come from the nitrous... It's just too easy to go fast with juice to mess with the rideability of my bike.. The one time I rode to the track ran a couple 10.7's at 131mph and rode home and that's not shabby... A gen 2 will get you there as well but I can't afford a gen 2 so this is what I'm working with and I prefer the looks of a gen 1 anyway... What I'm saying is when I build a new engine I'll run deep into the 9's on spray and still be able to ride it anywhere and that's more important than going fast to me...

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 
Rusty how is the bike coming along now?

Fantastic. Finally got the carbs sorted and running very crisp. Had to reinstall the vboost to get it to idle right, I think it had something to do with the combination of headwork, bigger cams and higher compression. It was advice from PCW and it worked.

When I know it's completely sorted ill post the carb setup.

Got my oil control sorted by ditching the stage 7 can and building my own bigger can with drain back to the engine and a breather with no carb suction involved. The stage 7 was pulling loads of oil, filling the can and then dumping oil into the front carbs. Scary the first time it happened since I thought id burnt a hole in a piston since so much oil was coming out of the exhaust.

I've only got about 250 miles on it at this point since I've only had like 5 days off in the last two months.

Going to take it to Bandera on the Three Sisters next weekend with the Houston vmax group so that'll be the final shakedown and break in.

After that ill get it on the dyno but I'm seriously expecting 175 to the rear wheel give or take 5.
I think that realistic since a standard Tourmaster with lower compression and less stroke will make 165 or so on the Mikunis
 
Interesting. I thought the same thing with a bottle.

My thoughts where almost the same as Vmax Mikes. Air shift and a bottle and run in the mid 10's with a stock bike easily.

40-50 shot bottle. Pure utter reliable power from a stock motor and the extra juice when needed via the bottle.

But the nice factor of having constant power from a big block setup would be nice as well. I think I would be squirting the bike all the time LOL.

Then I started thinking of squirting a big block setup lol. Make 200-210 hp at the rear wheel. But I figured without major modifications, I am not sure if the Vmax setup ( engine ) could withstand that kind of power reliably.

Todd
 
That's what I'm thinking though, make about 150ish horsepower on a fairly mild setup and hit it with a big shot of juice.. The engine would take it with good pistons and a quality set of rods but having the trans race cut would be mandatory and you'd still risk breaking driveshafts but going fast on a nitch bike isn't for everyone... I hurt alot of sportbike guys feelings on the street so its kinda cool to be able to do that on a cruiser type bike...

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 
Scott your a man of my own idea!

I am not really looking for a balls out pure track only bike. I am looking for an embrassing ride.

I had a 78 Grand Prix with a 400 pontiac motor I built. Very mild, would run 12.90's on itty bitty 185 75 14 tires with a 2.73 gear and a t350 with a 2200 stall. The car was gutted and only had seats in it. No carpet, no radio, no heater or ac stuff nothing.

It wasn't the fastest car, but it was primer grey with tinted windows and hub caps. So it looked like a pile of wanna be. But I used to street race that and had lots of fun with it. I am looking to do the same thing on a Max.

Make it look factory , but carry a big stick!

Todd
 
Scott your a man of my own idea!

I am not really looking for a balls out pure track only bike. I am looking for an embrassing ride.

I had a 78 Grand Prix with a 400 pontiac motor I built. Very mild, would run 12.90's on itty bitty 185 75 14 tires with a 2.73 gear and a t350 with a 2200 stall. The car was gutted and only had seats in it. No carpet, no radio, no heater or ac stuff nothing.

It wasn't the fastest car, but it was primer grey with tinted windows and hub caps. So it looked like a pile of wanna be. But I used to street race that and had lots of fun with it. I am looking to do the same thing on a Max.

Make it look factory , but carry a big stick!

Todd

Perfectly said Todd! I really regret the direction I took with my 68 Cutlass which is a big driving factor of why I want to keep my bike mild and fun... I went completely apeshit with it (14 point cage, Pinto rack & pinion, full backhalf, 13:1 compression, 8" stall converter) and I'm not making that mistake again

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 
You still need this 1500 longrod chaindrive engine! Will do everything you want and more when you run it on the bottle!
 
Perfectly said Todd! I really regret the direction I took with my 68 Cutlass which is a big driving factor of why I want to keep my bike mild and fun... I went completely apeshit with it (14 point cage, Pinto rack & pinion, full backhalf, 13:1 compression, 8" stall converter) and I'm not making that mistake again

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

I did the same thing when I had a 10 second heavy street car.

It takes the fun out of driving or riding if you constantly have to tune or fix it.

Todd
 
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