180/55/ 18 offset question

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Talk to me, Sean. Give me a phone number . Need wheels I guess. Lets see what you got.
 
Email me is easiest
[email protected]

I have the Carr wheels we sell which are of course about the best you can get. Light weight and great looks. I also have a few "used" sets. Depends on budget and your overall goals.

Sean
 
Just read this thread as I have been away from this site for a bit.

The offset of aftermarket rims has been reviewed a few years back and I actually started a thread requesting pictures of aftermarket rear rims pictures to see the offset.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3646&highlight=rear+wheel+offset

I have an eightnuff rear rim for the last few years and had zero issues with it. I have logged over 35,000 miles on it.

All 6" wide rims will have an offset to the right, if it was designed to fit in the stock swingarm. It has to to be able to fit without rubbing.

The swingarm can be moved to the left to compensate by using an adjustable swingarm pivot bolt. This will move the swingarm to the left by approx 10mm.

I can get you an updated picture of my rear rim offset if you would like, once I get back home from holidays.

Mike
 
Thanks, Mike. Gonna try that before I do anything else. Like to see yours.
 
Like I said I'd try to find a stock wheel and make absolutely sure its the wheel first.. I have a 18x6 Kosman weld up on mine that isn't offset but I had to offset it myself by 1/4" to the right using a spacer under the cush drive and making a 1/4" axle spacer and milling the caliper bracket 1/4" it all worked really well, the swingarm is notched but nothing hits and its a 200/50-18 Shinko Verge...

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
 

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Like I said I'd try to find a stock wheel and make absolutely sure its the wheel first.. I have a 18x6 Kosman weld up on mine that isn't offset but I had to offset it myself by 1/4" to the right using a spacer under the cush drive and making a 1/4" axle spacer and milling the caliper bracket 1/4" it all worked really well, the swingarm is notched but nothing hits and its a 200/50-18 Shinko Verge...

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

You put your spacer between the cush drive and the wheel? As in, the pins on the cush drive aren't bottomed out and you aren't able to retain it on the hub with a snap ring?

Never heard of anyon doing it that way. Seems like a good idea though. You would keep full contact on the gears between the cush and diff. The pins seem plenty long enough to allow some play there.

Either way, whatever you did worked well cause that 200 looks lined up pretty good. Nice job!
 
You put your spacer between the cush drive and the wheel? As in, the pins on the cush drive aren't bottomed out and you aren't able to retain it on the hub with a snap ring?

Never heard of anyon doing it that way. Seems like a good idea though. You would keep full contact on the gears between the cush and diff. The pins seem plenty long enough to allow some play there.

Either way, whatever you did worked well cause that 200 looks lined up pretty good. Nice job!

That is exactly what I did, I just omitted the snap ring.. Like you said its really not needed and the pins are plenty long and I didn't want to sacrifice gear engagement... Thanks for the compliment, I also used the brake side and underbrace of the swingarm as my air tank for my air shifter, works real slick :)

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
 
I've fitted a pair of 17" wheels from Jon at UFO (can't fault service or quality) and the rear lines up bang on the centerline with stock spacers.
 
Thanks, Mike. Gonna try that before I do anything else. Like to see yours.


Alright, I am back from holidays and settled back in at home, so I thought I would post pics of the rear end on my max with the eightnuff rim.

So here they are.

Mike
 

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Maxcruiser - I just purchased an 18" rear and need some help understanding exactly how using another adjustable pivot bolt on the LH side moves the SA over 10mm (or approx 3/8) to the left.

Not quite "visualizing" the concept as I kinda recall that the SA pivot bolts thread into the frame...

Thanks
 
The swingarm is narrower than the "gap" in the frame so tightening one bolt and loosening the other makes it slide to the side...
 
By putting an adjustable pivot bolt on the left side, you are able to push the swingarm over by adjusting the left one outward and the right one inward.

Not sure if this explanation helps, but I hope so.

Mike
 
OK...so the inner bolt actually bottoms out on something inside the SA. I'll take a good look at it tonight (it's off the bike) to see if my assumption is anywhere close to actual.

Thanks for the quick response...

Frank
 
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The bolts have a built in shoulder that preload the swingarm bearings. These bolts are what align the swingarm in-between the frame rails. The swingarm itself does not actually touch the frame. It floats on these two pivot bolts.

Typically, you screw the fixed bolt in until it is bottomed out and you torque to spec. When you do this, you will always have the swingarm placed in the same place between the frame rails. Then, the adjustable bolt is threaded in deep enough to contact the opposite bearing, and preload it. Then you lock it in place with the locknut.

What you can do is replaced the fixed bolt with an adjustable bolt. This will allow you to slide the swingarm over to the left a bit because you will not thread the adjustable bolt in as far as you would the fixed bolt. Then, on the right side, you would used the OEM adjustable bolt and thread it in enough to take up the slack.

Not sure how else to put. Wish I could have with less words :biglaugh:

Once you have your arm set where you want it, put the engine in N and rotate the rear wheel and listen for signs of the driveshaft rubbing the inside of the swingarm. If it doesn't rub, you should be good to go.
 
Thanks Mike!! That was a great explanation! Now I see why just swaping the bolts may not work as you don't have the ability to back off the left side movement in the event the driveshaft makes contact with the SA.
 
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