1st Gen V-Max 2001 gen 1 cause I still expect to pay 12950.00 for a new P/U not just get it as a discount off the bottom line!

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2001 with 40K miles. Ran like crap when i got it even though the PO only used top shelf stuff Amsoil M/C specific oil K&N filters HID Headlight, new NGK's with the pointy tips, But had a clogged fuel filter to where I could barely blow through it! Carbs were way out on sync, started it so much the HD "BS" 5 roller lug starter clutch made a sound and then slipped. No damage to it seen after removed, 3 lug works fine so far. Could never get a solid Idle. Blips would hang up or stall out after adj cables and idle, surged under 4 K to the extent I was so disappointed in a VMAX, and all these years lookin to own one. Took the rear fender off to paint it and found fasteners missing fender tabs not in slots, so thought what else is messed up. Pulled the air box off to the carbs and was about to de carb when I see the inside return throttle cable wasn't even in the stop guide! After a bit of wrestling I get it in the cup by just loosening mount screws!! WOW from the first blip I knew it was fixed. Buttoned it up and its like a diff bike. No surging (none) and remarkably better throttle response.. Second bike I have purchased that a loose return cable has caused me head aches like stalling and now this.

 
Many amateur 'mechanics' mess-up the two-cable throttles. Try synching it now, to make (probably) a better idle and throttle response.

Bikes which have been sitting un-started for months often have blocked pilot jets, the smallest orifices in the carbs.

These bikes, though the design stems from before 1985, are capable of giving notice to a Hyabusa up to 100 mph. They are powerful, and the VBoost was a great design to enhance performance. The factory target was to make a bike which performed off the line like nothing else, and they did. Even 39 years later, the VMax is capable of staying with most bikes to 100+ mph or beating them. After all, it's a 10 second bike in the hands of a good rider.
 
Many amateur 'mechanics' mess-up the two-cable throttles. Try synching it now, to make (probably) a better idle and throttle response.

Bikes which have been sitting un-started for months often have blocked pilot jets, the smallest orifices in the carbs.

These bikes, though the design stems from before 1985, are capable of giving notice to a Hyabusa up to 100 mph. They are powerful, and the VBoost was a great design to enhance performance. The factory target was to make a bike which performed off the line like nothing else, and they did. Even 39 years later, the VMax is capable of staying with most bikes to 100+ mph or beating them. After all, it's a 10 second bike in the hands of a good rider.
+1 FM, When someone wants to street race, pick a roll on up to 100 mph or so. We'll do fine against almost anyone.
 
Yes, a 'slow-roll' is supposed to be easier on the running gear. "I need a slow-roll start, this 'ol bike is kinda-fragile, how-many lengths are ya gonna give me?" 🤣
 
+1 FM, When someone wants to street race, pick a roll on up to 100 mph or so. We'll do fine against almost anyone.
Your defeating what a V-Max is all about. From a dig is where a V-Max shines. I've had my *** handed to me more than once from any sport bike 1000cc built in the last 20yrs. From a 30 to 60 roll to 100 your only going to shift 1 or 2 times. Roll racing bikes is for people that can't shift or can't control the clutch lever. These bikes really don't have much of a top end charge. I've taken my bike to over 145mph on the speedometer an it took for ever from 120mph.
 
Yes, a 'slow-roll' is supposed to be easier on the running gear. "I need a slow-roll start, this 'ol bike is kinda-fragile, how-many lengths are ya gonna give me?" 🤣
I don't an wouldn't give anything. It's hard enough to be competitive with a almost 30yr old bike. But I make it work, anything from a dig to 90 or 100mph. I can make just about any bike worry about losing. Unless they have launch control with finger up shifts.
 
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