2005 vmax front end handling

[Piercems3]

I am the proud new owner of a mint 2005 vmax with only 5,000 miles on it. I was hoping for some opinions regarding the front end handling on this motorcycle.

I have mostly ridden sport bikes, or sport standards. I currently have a Triumph Thruxton, Ducati 996S also in the stable, so I guess that is what I have for a baseline.

I was clearly not expecting a canyon carver, but I find my Vmax to have a somewhat strange handling characteristic. When accelerate aggressively, the front end feels like it lifts several inches up before lifting the front wheel. Most bikes I have ridden will just wheelie instead of this strange squat/lift combo that I feel.

I also noticed the front end gets a little squirmy on grooved pavement comparted to other bikes. Does anyone sell a steering stabilizer for the gen 1?

Thanks for the feedback everyone!

 

[The Beekeeper]

On a stock V-Max you need to keep air in the forks, not sure of the psi but the schrader valves are located at the top of each fork under the threaded cap, you can try this or install progressive springs, I have done the springs and it makes a world of difference, as far as the grooved pavement mine does the same thing, just make sure your tires are in good condition and properly inflated...............Tom.

 

[Wrinkled Wrider]

Forks aside, you are riding (most likely) on bias ply tires. These were stock and since there is no choice for the radials on the stock rims. You have 2 choices: 1) put the gripiest bias plys you can find on the wheels. That could help. Or , 2) modify the rear wheel to accept a radial. There are folks out there that do this but maybe you could find a used modified rear wheel.
I did this and handling improved all around.
Radials track straighter on rain grooves and chain bridges.

 

[caseyjones955]

Another thing you can look at is the fork brace. I know the ears can break off and effect handling some. I found mine broken when I installed the Progressive springs and it made a big difference. Also make sure steering head bearings are properly adjusted. I'm still sitting on bias ply tires and it handles just fine. Not excellent but pretty sound for an aged cruiser.



When you do ad air to the forks dont use an air compressor, best if you can find a hand pump designed for that. Once I had the progressives in there was no more need for air in the forks.

 

[[email protected]]

The bike needs fork springs. Progressive or racetech. Doing so is the best bang for your buck modification you will ever do on a vmax. Having the stock seat cut down is a close 2nd!

If you're going to install fork springs, you may want to consider emulators or intiminators. Not really necessary IMO. But they do help. If you budget is tight just do the springs.

Sport bikes have radial tires. The vmax has bias ply tires. When you ride over grooved pavement, gravel, open grate bridges, asphalt seams, etc.. a bias tire feels a bit "squiggly" compared to radials.

 

[Fire-medic]

You must maintain your bikes yourself, w/a garage-full. Like any bike, optimum stock condition will make it the best, mods can help improve it past the stock setup. Most people find no use for a steering stabilizer. The geometry isn't extreme-enough to require one. It's a lazy front end compared to a literbike, which is much steeper in the angle, and in how it feels underway.

You already got the info from others:
All these assume you don't have leaking oil from the forks
1 run 12-15 psi air in the forks, use a bicycle pump, if you use a compressor you could unseat the seals out of the sliders!
2 any front tire wear will cause all-sorts of issues. Old tires will be an impediment to your handling
3 properly-tightened and greased steering head bearings helps stop shimmying or a clunk from the front end. Sean Morley -see the Morley's Muscle banner ad- has a YouTube on setting the torque on the steering head bearings properly. Watch it, use it.
4 worn wheel bearings or no grease will give poor handling
5 there is a sequence to tightening the front end. That includes the triple trees, steering stem, front wheel/axle, and the fender/wheel brace. See the online factory manual
6 if the fork seals leak, you won't have oil to work properly
7 worn rear shocks or a loose swingarm pivot affects the front end
8 a death grip on the front end affects handling, you should know how to countersteer

 

[Piercems3]

Thanks to everyone for the good advice. The suspension is in like new shape, as are all bearings and bushings. No leaks, no cracks, head bearings are good. I will double check the air and get a set of progressive springs on order.

 

[Redbone]

There is a sale going on for the Ricor Intiminators which helped my '92 quite a bit. I picked mine up at a forum special when they first came out and paid $150 the sale they have going on now is for $180, not bad. I have Progressive 440's (also IAS technology) on back, progressive spring in forks so getting the suspension setup was pretty straightforward. Sean Morley also sells fork spring tension adjusters which adds to the tuneability.
Link: http://store.ricorshocks.com/product_p/043-20-1001vmax.htm
Link to how they work: http://store.ricorshocks.com/ias_technology_s/19.htm

 

[Piercems3]

When I checked the air pressure it was at zero. set it to 15psi and although it is not great, it really is not bad either. We have such a short riding season in North Dakota I will ride as is until it gets cold then install the new springs!

 

[93max]

You could do what I'm going to do and enjoy the springs now.
You can swap them without taking the forks off.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Chuck yer peepers around this

 

[Piercems3]

Chuck yer peepers around this

Good info, thanks Steve. I'll probably just throw in a set of springs and emulators and call it a day. It's never going to handle like my Ducati, I just don't want a big floppy noodle up front.