85 Max - post purchase progress

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Shuriken

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Howdy,

I've more closely inspected the bike and came up with a parts list, which you'll find in another post. Any help with parts is appreciated.

I spent last Saturday going through the carbs. Used a lot of cleaner and compressed air. Jetting appears to be stock and the carbs weren't full of rust, which was a good find. Also changed plugs, fuel filter, and changed the oil. The air filter is new.

I really struggled trying to reconnect the throttle cables to the carbs. I figure I'll come up with a good technique at some point. Anyone else find this step difficult?

Also found it difficult to get the airbox boots back over the carb inlets, as the boots are less pliable than they were in 85. I am sure this is contributing to a lean idle.

I want to replace all of the carb rubber hose but the local stores don't have anything that works - OD is always too big. Will try to find that. Right now I have the tubes that go from the float bowls up to the airbox completely removed, which I think would also contribute to lean idle. But I don't have any replacement hose yet.

A PO installed a braided clutch line, which works great, but it leaks at the joint where the aftermarket line connects to the OEM fitting down by the clutch on the left side. Does anyone know if I can get just the solid tube peice that emerges from the clutch and that connects to the aftermarket tube?

After the carb cleaning, the bike fired up and ran much better, but still requires half choke at idle. I took the bike out on half choke and warmed it up and then was able to turn off the choke completely. The bike will drop to a very low, smooth idle and will die thereafter. I may have idle speed set too low, so I'll check that. If not, probably too lean of idle. Although, I did check plug color at idle and it looks really good.

The bike performs very well. That shift from 1st to 2nd is my new favorite thing. Feels like your eyes are sinking back into your head. The Max will definitely get up and move.

I got back onto the XS11 afterwards and can now see that there is a lot of ergonomical and engine differences between the two. The XS is more comfortable to me in terms of seating/riding position. It's easier to steer and control, especially at low speed. The Max has a very comfortable seat but requires me to really stretch to get to the bars, and I'm 6'1". The Max also feels heavier in low speed turns, but part of this I'm sure is my bike's tweaked front forks. The Max obviously out accelerates the XS. Both have a lot of useful torque. My XS has a 4-1, so it's a high pitched tinny sound, while the Max, with the stock 4-2 has that baritone rumble that we have all come to love.

Anyway.... I'll post some before and after pics down the road. Need to get parts and paint first.
 
I really struggled trying to reconnect the throttle cables to the carbs. I figure I'll come up with a good technique at some point. Anyone else find this step difficult?

Open the throttle valves using the linkage and then use a needle nose. It makes it even easier if you split the rack in half.

Also found it difficult to get the airbox boots back over the carb inlets, as the boots are less pliable than they were in 85. I am sure this is contributing to a lean idle.

Make sure the clamps are loosened all the way and make sure the clamps are properly position over the boot. There's a small rib on the boot itself that aligns to the rib on the clamp.

I want to replace all of the carb rubber hose but the local stores don't have anything that works - OD is always too big. Will try to find that. Right now I have the tubes that go from the float bowls up to the airbox completely removed, which I think would also contribute to lean idle. But I don't have any replacement hose yet.

I used regular fuel line from O'Reilly's and then clear 3/8 hose from Ace Hardware for float bowl breathers. It'll idle w/o those but once you give it throttle performance will suffer as the rpms go up.

After the carb cleaning, the bike fired up and ran much better, but still requires half choke at idle. I took the bike out on half choke and warmed it up and then was able to turn off the choke completely. The bike will drop to a very low, smooth idle and will die thereafter. I may have idle speed set too low, so I'll check that. If not, probably too lean of idle. Although, I did check plug color at idle and it looks really good.

This is normal. You should need a bit of choke for the first 3-5 minutes minimum. If you continue to need choke when the temp needle hits the first line then you're either lean and/or the pilot jets are plugged.
 
So far, I have:
removed, dissassembled, and cleaned the carbs
flushed tank
replaced fuel filter
synchronized the carbs
adjusted idle mix
changed plugs
changed oil and oil filter
changed final drive oil
flushed and replaced coolant
degreased various things
stripped paint from side panels
stripped paint from air scoops
sanded air scoops
removed bondo from air scoop logos
stripped faux tank
removed bondo from faux tank
stripped paint from handlebars
stripped paint from bar riser/clamp
stripped paint from seat grab bar
polished bar/riser clamp
polished carb covers
polished seat grab bar
ordered 3 sets of EBC HH brake pads
ordered OEM fork oil and dust seals
ordered used forks
ordered used rear brake disc rotor
ordered new speedo cable
ordered 4 used turn signals
ordered 2 used mirrors
ordered brake lever

need to install seals in forks, install forks, clean front discs, go through front and rear calipers, install pads and rear rotor, fix frayed wiring in headlight bucket, clean handlebar switch assembly contacts, clean rear lights and signal contacts, install turn signals and mirrors, new speedo cable, check and lube the speedo (whining), check front to rear wheel alignment, fix or replace front brake master, check brake switches, replace about anything rubber, paint, polish, etc., etc., and the other things I've missed.
 
You've been BUSY. Looks like you've got a lot done too! Keep us posted on the project. :thumbs up:

Regards,
Tom
 
So far, I have:
removed, dissassembled, and cleaned the carbs
flushed tank
replaced fuel filter
synchronized the carbs
adjusted idle mix
changed plugs
changed oil and oil filter
changed final drive oil
flushed and replaced coolant
degreased various things
stripped paint from side panels
stripped paint from air scoops
sanded air scoops
removed bondo from air scoop logos
stripped faux tank
removed bondo from faux tank
stripped paint from handlebars
stripped paint from bar riser/clamp
stripped paint from seat grab bar
polished bar/riser clamp
polished carb covers
polished seat grab bar
ordered 3 sets of EBC HH brake pads
ordered OEM fork oil and dust seals
ordered used forks
ordered used rear brake disc rotor
ordered new speedo cable
ordered 4 used turn signals
ordered 2 used mirrors
ordered brake lever

need to install seals in forks, install forks, clean front discs, go through front and rear calipers, install pads and rear rotor, fix frayed wiring in headlight bucket, clean handlebar switch assembly contacts, clean rear lights and signal contacts, install turn signals and mirrors, new speedo cable, check and lube the speedo (whining), check front to rear wheel alignment, fix or replace front brake master, check brake switches, replace about anything rubber, paint, polish, etc., etc., and the other things I've missed.



Wow, I'm impressed, you sound as anal as me about "making stuff right"

Rusty
 
Well, I am that way, but I don't have much choice. This bike has been terribly abused. It has practically been raped, starved, abused, isolated, and left out in the cold for the last 23 years.. at least that's what it looks like. I have to be honest, people that treat bikes this bad should be made to bathe in paint stripper......

I removed the exhaust from the bike and confirmed that it had rusted through just in front of the collector. My replacement exhaust that I got with the bike is in much better shape, so I think I'll try to use it. After discovering more and more things that need attention, I don't think I'll be able to buy a new exhaust right now.
 
Well, tonight the wife pulled the plug on restore expenditures. It really sucks because I believed her when she went with me to get the bike that she was interested in it. After I've spent so much time in the garage and so much on parts, she sort of let me have it tonight.

Thing that sucks is I was in the middle of getting a replacement exhaust and now I won't be.

How easily she forgets when we bought the XS11 in pieces out of the back of an old truck for $450 and what it took to get it to where it is now. Yet she thoroughly enjoys every ride we take on the bike. Grrrr.......

At this point I think I have enough parts here or on the way to get the bike up and going, but the exhaust will have to wait, I suppose. If I can get a riding season out of the Max, I could revisit the exhaust idea again down the road. It all depends on how much we can ride it this season.
 
Today I removed the bent front forks. I could not find any damage to frame components, triple trees, etc.

But what should I do now? I can have the local shop straighten the forks for $80 total. Or I can use a set of straight forks that have pitting in the fork travel area for the same price. Or hopefully, I can purchase inner fork tubes in great shape from someone.
 
Well, I took the bike out for a 15 mile ride today. Everything went quite well but my front brake master cylinder pissed all over me. I have no idea why a master cylinder will leak under the cap, but it did. Rubber is fine, screws are fine, etc. Hydraulic fluid all over my jacket.....

The other thing is that the drilled mufflers were as expected - loud. The noise level isn't really useful when you are out on the highway. Plus, the bike did not feel as strong. This could either be because the bike warmed up fully and is running rich or that the drilled pipes reduced power.

After fully warm, the bike settles into a nice idle, however.

If I can weld up the baffles and get a new front brake master cylinder, I should be able to enjoy riding it.
 
I forgot to mention that I am using straightened forks. The local machine shop did a fine job straightening the forks for only $42. Until I can afford something else, this will have to do.

The bike tracked straight and true as well. It will hold a line without any steering inputs.
 
Well, I took the bike out for a 15 mile ride today. Everything went quite well but my front brake master cylinder pissed all over me. I have no idea why a master cylinder will leak under the cap, but it did. Rubber is fine, screws are fine, etc. Hydraulic fluid all over my jacket.....

Check the cylinder/piston that the brake lever pushes. It might be worn. I had the clutch lever cylinder do the same thing to me.
 
Took the wife out on the Max today. We took our first real ride on the Max - about 40 miles. Funny, remember me saying how much she was complaining when I was working on it? She loves the bike, stopped complaining, and wants me to keep it. It's always that way. She loves the bikes after I get them going.

But it's definitely nice getting the wife's approval. Now it will be easy to get what I need for the bike.

The pipes are annoyingly loud. The front brakes aren't up to par yet. Need some gaskets, etc. But otherwise, it's a great bike so far.
 
I spent an hour cleaning up the m/c and the m/c cap. Also shortened the screws. Put it all back together and don't have any leaks. Grrrrreat....

Only problem is, V-Boost just took a dump and I am trying to figure out what's going on there....
 
The restore continues....

Bike is running very well. I am well pleased with it. 35k miles, seems to have quite a bit of power, tranny is doing OK, etc. Seems to get around 28mpg city only, 35 with a mix of city/highway.

I'm still fixing and/or replacing stuff.

I have the fenders off the bike and am sanding them. Paint is ordered. I guess I'll go with super jet gloss black. This paint order is my second purchase from http://www.paintforcars.com since it worked well on another bike. The color and clear coats are urethane enamel.

Just got my valve cover gaskets, OEM shifter pedal, stator and clutch gaskets. Waiting for clutch slave cylinder, clutch slave cyliner pipe, collar, gasket, copper o-rings, and bleeder screws. Already have a new oil drain bolt, oil filter, and spark plugs also.

I'm not sure my pockets are deep enough, but I have really been keeping an eye on sissy bars and OEM windshields as well. Those and a new set of tires really drain the account.

The bike has been non-officially dubbed "Max-X," but I'm thinking of renaming it to "MoneyMax" to signify how much of a money pit it is.....
 
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