86Vmax Mystery Part in Oil Pan!

[namyzzo]

I recently acquired an 86 Vmax..Had a knock and took a gamble that it wouldn't be major - well I crapped out.. Pulled the pan and discovered the bad news..Cylinder#3 barely has any bearing left..Cylinder #1 still has both bearings but some wear..Crank is not severly scored but does have a ridge when I run my finger across it 3-7 Thousands if I'd have to guess... Yamabond,Bronze-ish Flakes of metal and normal metal in the pan,filter..etc.. Orange o-ring not seated....But stuck in in oil pickup filter was this metal Pin..Resembles a long roller bearing..Any ideas what/where it comes from?:bang head:

 

[maxcruiser]

Picture is not that clear, but my guess would be a shift pin from the shifter drum assembly - # 7 in the picture

I have had it happen, where the pin falls out of the retaining clip and ends up in the oil pick up screen.

A better picture would help identify.

Mike

 

[KJShover]

Picture is not that clear, but my guess would be a shift pin from the shifter drum assembly - # 7 in the picture

I have had it happen, where the pin falls out of the retaining clip and ends up in the oil pick up screen.

A better picture would help identify.

Mike

+1 on the shift pin, there is a star shaped support that holds 5 of them. they have been known to drop out in the older Venture motors.

I lost the 4th gear pin in my '85 venture. replacing wasn't too bad, but never found the pin. It's still running around up here 6 years after I sold it.

and yes, I did tell the new owner about it. lol

 

[lankeeyankee]

I recently acquired an 86 Vmax..Had a knock and took a gamble that it wouldn't be major - well I crapped out.. Pulled the pan and discovered the bad news..Cylinder#3 barely has any bearing left..Cylinder #1 still has both bearings but some wear..Crank is not severly scored but does have a ridge when I run my finger across it 3-7 Thousands if I'd have to guess... Yamabond,Bronze-ish Flakes of metal and normal metal in the pan,filter..etc.. Orange o-ring not seated....But stuck in in oil pickup filter was this metal Pin..Resembles a long roller bearing..Any ideas what/where it comes from?:bang head:

Falicon Cranks can fix the crank for you. They are awesome at what they do. They are located in Florida the last time I checked they repair VMAX cranks for around $300.00 bucks!

 

[one2dmax]

I may have a good used crank on hand and of course reworked stock rods. The big thing you need to worry about is the case set. They tend to get damaged on the thrust surface when they spin a bearing. I have fixed that too but it still is that much more work. I've got a couple of venture 1300 that will be ready to go soon too.

Sean

 

[namyzzo]

Hmm. Guess I will find out when I tear it down a little more...Thanks for the right direction...

If your bored - read on...I gotta Ramble some - my head is spinning

I'm thinking - I'm thinking this is a big project.. Just a little leary on making it all happen, right and correctly... My plan was/is to rebuild this motor.. The task at hand seems enormous... I have rebuilt 350chevy and an 81 XJ 650..etc.. good with my hands - but everything seems ALOT more important bc its a V-max!!

Before I jumped into this I checked into a 1500 kit from someone and the thought of dropping 6500. for a motor just seemed outta my budget.. So I started buying parts here and there and now I quickly see the cost rising..

I guess Im commited in my mind to rebuild this baby..Iv'e wanted one since forever and since I already started buying parts I might as well see it through - I hope I can get some positive help from anyone willing... Iv'e read some other really dedicated stories about getting the Max back in action unk:..


Like I said I already have some goodies - (OEM fifty over Pistons/pins/keepers and Rings,,all the o-rings for oil pump area,thermostat,?Complete Gasket kit with Valve Seals?,Throttle Cables,Nology Wires and Plugs,Throttle Grip assy,new grips,mirrors,alot of nuts/bolts,rear reflector,oil filter,fuel filter,Chrome Carb inserts/Fork Brace/Handlebar clamp,used coils for parts,overflow cap,..etc.. < Just goin Krazy!!!

-Guess I was thinkin ontaking the crank to local shop and get appropriate OEM bearings (hope I dont have the problem that Sean is referring to)..
-Can the Deck be Blocked -does anyone know how much??
-OEM Cranks with Bolts,nuts = $400.00.. Considering Seans?
-Valves were in adjustment/cams looked ok = should I replace the springs while I'm there to be safe?..Clean up/Lap Valves..etc..any ideas?
-I read something in Forums about balancing the internals - so I'm worried about this.?
-This orange O-ring thing..-Hope the new OEM one I got works out..Any Suggestions on Preventing this again?..Did this cause my problem?
-Noting all the Yamabond in the filter pickup - is this wise to use?..etc
-Can you get just a replacement screen assembly for the oil pickup?
-Where can I find a kit with the K&N seperates,Stage 7 Kit combo?
-I work at a Clutch shop and build alot of Diaphragm/Coil spring clutches..Whats seemed to work best for you guys - Stock/D or Barnett Coil conversion?..I can get stiffer springs if needed..
-I powdercoat on the side - any thoughts on Powdercoat keeping the heat from escaping the engine?


*Thanks for letting me Ramble..

 

[namyzzo]

Hmm. Guess I will find out when I tear it down a little more...Thanks for the right direction...

If your bored - read on...I gotta Ramble some - my head is spinning

I'm thinking - I'm thinking this is a big project.. Just a little leary on making it all happen, right and correctly... My plan was/is to rebuild this motor.. The task at hand seems enormous... I have rebuilt 350chevy and an 81 XJ 650..etc.. good with my hands - but everything seems ALOT more important bc its a V-max!!

Before I jumped into this I checked into a 1500 kit from someone and the thought of dropping 6500. for a motor just seemed outta my budget.. So I started buying parts here and there and now I quickly see the cost rising..

I guess Im commited in my mind to rebuild this baby..Iv'e wanted one since forever and since I already started buying parts I might as well see it through - I hope I can get some positive help from anyone willing... Iv'e read some other really dedicated stories about getting the Max back in action unk:..


Like I said I already have some goodies - (OEM fifty over Pistons/pins/keepers and Rings,,all the o-rings for oil pump area,thermostat,?Complete Gasket kit with Valve Seals?,Throttle Cables,Nology Wires and Plugs,Throttle Grip assy,new grips,mirrors,alot of nuts/bolts,rear reflector,oil filter,fuel filter,Chrome Carb inserts/Fork Brace/Handlebar clamp,used coils for parts,overflow cap,..etc.. < Just goin Krazy!!!

-Guess I was thinkin ontaking the crank to local shop and get appropriate OEM bearings (hope I dont have the problem that Sean is referring to)..
-Can the Deck be Blocked -does anyone know how much??
-OEM Cranks with Bolts,nuts = $400.00.. Considering Seans?
-Valves were in adjustment/cams looked ok = should I replace the springs while I'm there to be safe?..Clean up/Lap Valves..etc..any ideas?
-I read something in Forums about balancing the internals - so I'm worried about this.?
-This orange O-ring thing..-Hope the new OEM one I got works out..Any Suggestions on Preventing this again?..Did this cause my problem?
-Noting all the Yamabond in the filter pickup - is this wise to use?..etc
-Can you get just a replacement screen assembly for the oil pickup?
-Where can I find a kit with the K&N seperates,Stage 7 Kit combo?
-I work at a Clutch shop and build alot of Diaphragm/Coil spring clutches..Whats seemed to work best for you guys - Stock/D or Barnett Coil conversion?..I can get stiffer springs if needed..
-I powdercoat on the side - any thoughts on Powdercoat keeping the heat from escaping the engine?


*Thanks for letting me Ramble..

NE one have sggestions?

 

[Heretic]

Hmm. Guess I will find out when I tear it down a little more...Thanks for the right direction...

If your bored - read on...I gotta Ramble some - my head is spinning

I'm thinking - I'm thinking this is a big project.. Just a little leary on making it all happen, right and correctly... My plan was/is to rebuild this motor.. The task at hand seems enormous... I have rebuilt 350chevy and an 81 XJ 650..etc.. good with my hands - but everything seems ALOT more important bc its a V-max!!

Before I jumped into this I checked into a 1500 kit from someone and the thought of dropping 6500. for a motor just seemed outta my budget.. So I started buying parts here and there and now I quickly see the cost rising..

I guess Im commited in my mind to rebuild this baby..Iv'e wanted one since forever and since I already started buying parts I might as well see it through - I hope I can get some positive help from anyone willing... Iv'e read some other really dedicated stories about getting the Max back in action unk:..


Like I said I already have some goodies - (OEM fifty over Pistons/pins/keepers and Rings,,all the o-rings for oil pump area,thermostat,?Complete Gasket kit with Valve Seals?,Throttle Cables,Nology Wires and Plugs,Throttle Grip assy,new grips,mirrors,alot of nuts/bolts,rear reflector,oil filter,fuel filter,Chrome Carb inserts/Fork Brace/Handlebar clamp,used coils for parts,overflow cap,..etc.. < Just goin Krazy!!!

-Guess I was thinkin ontaking the crank to local shop and get appropriate OEM bearings (hope I dont have the problem that Sean is referring to)..
-Can the Deck be Blocked -does anyone know how much??
-OEM Cranks with Bolts,nuts = $400.00.. Considering Seans?
-Valves were in adjustment/cams looked ok = should I replace the springs while I'm there to be safe?..Clean up/Lap Valves..etc..any ideas?
-I read something in Forums about balancing the internals - so I'm worried about this.?
-This orange O-ring thing..-Hope the new OEM one I got works out..Any Suggestions on Preventing this again?..Did this cause my problem?
-Noting all the Yamabond in the filter pickup - is this wise to use?..etc
-Can you get just a replacement screen assembly for the oil pickup?
-Where can I find a kit with the K&N seperates,Stage 7 Kit combo?
-I work at a Clutch shop and build alot of Diaphragm/Coil spring clutches..Whats seemed to work best for you guys - Stock/D or Barnett Coil conversion?..I can get stiffer springs if needed..
-I powdercoat on the side - any thoughts on Powdercoat keeping the heat from escaping the engine?


*Thanks for letting me Ramble..

To answer some of your questions...
Boxenstopp sells an o-ring popper stopper to prevent the o-ring from being displaced. I think it has been determined that most V-Maxs are probably running around with popped o-rings, but it is a huge debate on whether this is a direct cause of engine failures (it certainly doesn't help)

PCW sells a complete clutch replacement with stiffer spring that everyone seems to like. DD can be a little tiresome if doing a lot of traffic riding.

Being an 86 you probably want to examine the transmission as these often have 2nd gear problems. Replacement of gears and back cutting them will resolve this issue.

The Stage 7 can be had from several places. You want the Stage 7 V-Max specific kit instead of just buying 4 individual K&Ns as it comes with the appropriate main jet correctors and crankcase ventilation.

Usually powder coating is used as a cosmetic thing, I have never heard of it being used to control engine temp. Ceramic coatings can help control engine heat.

I am a conservative person who doesn't like surprises, especially when it comes to money. I would recommend doing a comprehensive check on everything you need and get a price, adding some extra for things you might have missed. I would then research how much a good running max can be had for in your city. For the prices V-Max stuff can receive on E-Bay it will probably be more cost effective to part this bike and use the proceeds to buy a later model V-Max. With the later model you will get the bigger forks and better brakes and it is cheap and easy to upgrade to R1 spec calipers (big improvement in braking).

As an example in 2006 I purchased a very good condition 2003 V-Max with 3,000 miles for $6200.

 

[one2dmax]

give me a shout if you are looking for prices for stuff. I have a couple of good cranks and they usually run around $250-$300. I stock reworked rods ready to go (with bronze small ends) for $240 exchange.

We have a simple o-ring fix that doesn't require the pop stopper. We have overdriven setup for the oil pump for more volume and increased pressure. I stock bearings and can setup the rods and crank before I ship them.

You can deck the block about .040 to increase compression and squeeze.

Yes, I would replace the springs with heavier duty versions which we can get.

We have our own jet kit which is less expensive then the stage seven but am also a dealer for dynojet and can get them too. I think I even have a used stage seven left over here.

Look at the block where the crank sits (upper half) and see if there is any gouging on the machined surfaces on the sides where the thrust surfaces are.

Use Yamabond to seal the case halves. Clean up the screen and you can re-use it. I imagine you can buy just that part too if you wanted.

either clutch setup works good for most. i have a good used barnett on hand as well as the clutches.

ceramic coat and not powdercoat. You can coat pistons and heads with special coatings too.

Sean
[email protected]

 

[1986vmonster]

The 86 I acquired last year was well past the knock stage. That engine is 100% seized solid. Oil that came out was sparkly black filled with metal shavings.

Oil filter had completely imploded as it was totally clogged with metal particles. Engine was completely dry of coolant.

Safe to say the bike had been abused, neglected yet nicely modified with upgrades and kept in top condition cosmetically.

Only good thing about a seized engine is it is easier to get the flywheel off... If a flywheel were easy to get off.

 

[one2dmax]

Ha, yep. Sounds like it was rode hard! I have various engines/parts around here in various conditions depending on if you wanted to move over some parts (like your trans) and save some money.

Sean