97 vmax. Anyway to soften clutch pull ?

[CNN SUCKS DONKEY]

Ive only had it a few weeks got it with 24k All I I know is its hydraulic actuated clutch and the fluid should generaly be changed bout every 2 years or so. But I havent been able to find a how to on making the clutch easier to squeaze and maintain. Perhaps a diffrent lever ? Has Anyone improved the hardness on the vmax clutch ?

 

[rebeltaz83]

It may have the dd mod. It's a very popular mod. I did it to my 97. Helps eliminate clutch slip, it's the weak point in the drivetrain. Or it has a stiffer aftermarket clutch spring. But I'd check the little fluid return home in the resivoir, that seems to be a common problem, it also won't allow the clutch to fully disengage if your having that problem. Somebody else might chime in with something else to check. But those two are very common for a stiff clutch lever. As far as I know the only way to check for the dd mod is to pop the clutch cover off. But I would say if it's that stiff, then it's been done. But check that hole in resivoir with a small piece of wire.

 

[[email protected]]

As noted, modifications may have been made that increase clutch holding power such as a the "DD Mod" which is stacking 2 clutch spring disks on top of each other. Or, swapping the OEM clutch spring disc to one from PCW which is stiffer.

Both of these increase lever effort.

If you have either of these mods, changing the spring setup back to OEM will help.

If you have a stock setup and everything is functioning correctly, there isn't much that can be done. There are a couple lever options but they don't decrease pull effort. About the only thing that you can do would be to swap the master cylinder assembly.

A 14mm unit is as small as you can go and still have proper clutch action. Certain years FJR and kawaski concours will work blend in well with the stock controls.

There are some sportbike options that work good too but they have remote reservoirs. I run one off of a ZX14 and I have the DD clutch setup. Lever effort is damn near the same as stock.

 

[CNN SUCKS DONKEY]

Spoke to the p.o he had it 10 year. He said the clutch is bone stock.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Check the basics first; that the pivot is free from wear and well lubricated. Also make sure that the pinch bolt isn't over tightened.

When I first got my Max I too found the pull heavy and found that a span adjustable leaver allowed my stubby fingers to get a better purchase.

The lever can also be modified to incorporate a bearing at the pivot (see attached PDF).

A m/c with a smaller bore would also reduce the pull but this would give increased lever travel.
The final option would be to fit a m/c assembly with a variable lever ratio, such as those from ISR.
The down side is that the ain't cheap and you would need a matching one for the brakes....and the six pot callipers....320mm discs.... :bang head:

 

[sdt354]

The pull from a stock clutch is very easy. Something is surely wrong. Quick check-open the bleeder on the slave and depress the lever. Do close the bleeder while the lever in pulled in. Was it tight? If not, the issue is beyond the slave, and we'll take it another segment from there. If tight, look before the slave.

 

[Jan Bee]

You can put on a set of adjustable levers.

 

[Poolio]

I have a stock clutch for now and the pull is easy. I'd listen to Steve o and give that bleed screw a shot. I'd check the line and make sure it's not linked or pinched somewhere

 

[42Below]

That bleed advice is good, cheap and easy.
It saves guess work and parts you may not need. I have a Barnett clutch and the pull is easy so sounds like you have an issue.

Let us know what you find