My 04 has a 4-1 Hindle, stock air box and stage 1 installed by the po. No idea what size jets are in there, but after talking with Sean, I moved the needle to the clip closest to the blunt end. It seemed to be running rich, i.e. my buddies said it smelled like unburnt fuel when I got on it hard. Any idea where I should set my a/f screws? The plugs have already been drilled out and all the screws are set to one turn out. I don't know much at all about carbs, just what I've been picking up here, but do you have to break apart the carbs to change the mains? I am going to get one of Sean's muscle kits after riding season, so that I have plenty of time to stumble through install and the problems I know will arise because of my luck.:biglaugh:
Oh, I am at about 750 ft altitude. Thanks for any input.
You don't have to dissasemble or unrack the carbs to change mains, just remove them in one piece off the bike and remove the bowl drain screw, then use a screwdriver to loosen the mains and then poke a tooth pick, hard and deep, in the main and unscrew it and pull it out, it helps to hold the carbs up over your head to do this so if the main gets away from the toothpick it will come out anyway instead of getting lost inside the bowl.
If you have access to any main jets you could probably go back to the Mikuni stock 152.2's, or 150's, and put the stock springs back in it too, but keep the stg 1 needles and then play with those.
I ran a similiar set up with completely stock jetting and it ran better than when I made changes to it...I did have a stock slide spring with two coils cut out of it (wrong way to do it, I found out you can tie these coils just as easily without ruining them, but it was too late in my case) and then played with shimming the needle since I didn't have any aftermarket needles at that point.
The main is 7k rpm and up or so.....
The slide springs,needles clip position and PAJ2 (the jet behind the diapraghm on the slide) should affect the midrange more, 3k rpm to about 6k rpm or so.
In truth they all over lap in thier effects, it's just that at differernt rpm's there are bigger contributors. This is why factory pro says to tune starting with the mains and work your way down.
The a/f screw shouldn't have a whole lot of affect on wide open throttle operation at 4k-5k and up rpm, it mostly affects idle, just off idle and part throttle cruise .........normal for this setup is probably around 2.5 to 3.5 turns out.
You might try shimming the Y on the airbox to lean it out some too
Stock Mikuni PAJ2 is 170, this jet is an air jet so the bigger it is the leaner your midrange, opposite of the what the fuel jets do.
Reading through all the sticky notes in this section will help you understand all of this too. There is some really good info in there from Mark and Sean.
There is also a really good guide to tuning CV crabs on Factory Pro's website that helps to understand these carbs too...it has some graphs that show what parts of the carb are doing the work at different rpm's too...
Anyone feel free to correct anything I'm saying, I'm still trying to learn this stuff too....Mark Milne is the real guru..He's helped me tremendously in the past
