Adjusting float dry

[427FE]

If the float needs adjusting, how do / what do you do to the move the float up or down?

 

[Traumahawk]

Your actually moving the little tang that sits on the needle. I just put a flat head screw driver between the float and the tang. If the float needs to move up, I just twist the screw driver and that puts more space between the float and the tang. Make sense?

 

[ColtMax]

As @Traumahawk said, you just put a flat head screw driver in that spot and twist it to increase the gap. Larger gap means leaner. The float will shut the needle valve sooner as it needs a lower level of fuel for it to be closed. Picture below shows car upside down.

If you want to reduce the gap, dont simply press on it as you may damage the needle. It is made of rubber.

 

[427FE]

Thanks, makes sense. Was just in the carbs yesterday and wasn't sure how to do it and as mentioned didn't want to damage the needle.

 

[wayne billings]

427FE If you have not done a wet check now would be the time. I believe there is a how to under the forum heading.

 

[Fire-medic]

For those who haven't much experience with carburetors, some suggestions.

• treat carburetors like you would an infant baby, gently. The german silver/potmetal which the carburetor bodies are made of, will not withstand ham-fisted manipulation, careless prying, or too-zealous tightening of screws, or the use of flame heat, before they break, strip-out, or melt.
• the #1 best way to clean a carburetor rack is a complete disassembly and then the use of an ultrasonic bath. If you don't have an ultrasonic bath, the purchase of one will pay for itself after the first use. One big-enough to do all four bodies at once is a good purchase. They aren't that-much more than a smaller one.
• when shopping for carburetor parts, OEM if you can afford it is probably the best way to proceed. I use K&L kits for the jet block gasket, the needle and seat for the float, and the assortment of the O-rings you get, to rebuild the carbs.
• if you've used your ultrasonic cleaner but you still have what you believe to be a carburetion issue, after reassembling the carburetors and installing them for a test run, don't be afraid to do the carb ultrasonic soak a second time. Most times once will do it, but occasionally you get a stubborn cylinder which is still showing signs of not being sufficiently cleaned. Use your best zen behavior to approach the re-cleaning, and follow the factory shop manual to ensure your efforts are correctly done.
• if you haven't bought a Harbor Freight infrared laser thermometer, to give you accurate digital readouts of exhaust manifold temperatures, you can use a simple squeeze bottle of water to spritz a bit of water onto each exhaust pipe, as-close to the cyl head as you can, and see how long it takes to dry up. if the water beads on the pipe, but it doesn't 'sizzle' and dry-up quickly, but it forms a rivulet of water running down the pipe, that cylinder is probably not firing properly.
• you can switch a sparkplug with another sparkplug/cylinder, and see if the non-firing condition follows to another cylinder. If it does, you probably have a fouled or poorly-functioning sparkplug. Of course, re-install the other plug into the cyl head you removed the suspect plug from. That cyl should now function normally, if the original sparkplug is bad. Don't think you can't have a bad sparkplug, if it's new. It's happened to me. OEM spec plug and heat range, but it was defective.

There are many other tips which people can offer, perhaps they will.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/one-cylinder-running-rich.53848/#post-539508

If your carburetors look like this you need new ones!



These appear to have spent time, much time, in the water.