Adventures with Powdercoating

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Kiln-dried sand of different grades of coarseness (depending on the coating you want to remove, the material being blasted, and the final finish prior to coating) is what you should be using to sandblast for best results. Fine finish/fine media, not-so-important grade of finish/more-coarse media. I am only a hobbyist but have done sand, glass bead and sodium bicarbonate 'baking soda' blasting. For chrome pieces, I use the 'baking soda.' If the chrome is intact, they usually come-out looking like I just spent a lotta time on the muslin power wheel.
 
maybe a stupid question but could you powdercoat a NEW oil filter without damaging it?
michael
 
Wow! That's a new one I never tried.
I'm trying to think why one would want to do that and only reason I could think of is to color match a painted motor. One is changing the filter every few thousand miles right?
Would the paper filter material inside make it through or be affected? Only way to find out is to try one but what if the heat fuses the porosity of the filter then you put it on a bike. Uh oh, no oil and a ruined motor. Not worth the risk to me.
Paint may be the best option here.
 
always with the question Moriarity. What movie?
anyway. on powdercoating brake calipers. I got you can do with them still together. push piston all the way in. BUT how clean does the inside have to be in that is it ok to have residual brake fluid inside the unit? will the oven cooking have an effect, fire etc?
michael
 
always with the question Moriarity. What movie?
anyway. on powdercoating brake calipers. I got you can do with them still together. push piston all the way in. BUT how clean does the inside have to be in that is it ok to have residual brake fluid inside the unit? will the oven cooking have an effect, fire etc?
michael
I thought I knew, but I was thinking of this one that is similar: "Always with the negative waves Moriarty, always with the negative waves."
 
Umm, something w/Clint Eastwood and a certain bald comic (Don Rickles), and Donald Sutherland? In a tank? About WW II? I saw Mr. Sutherland in a store in Miami. He was buying some expensive home furnishings. This place is where you shop for plumbing, electrical and kitchen components if you are going 'high-end.'

Donald Sutherland had a little dog on a leash in the store. He was talking on his cellphone, and as I entered the aisle where he was, I saw the dog. Now, dogs are not usually allowed in stores here, but there he was. I bent-down to pet him, and was saying something like, "what a sweet dog," when Donald ****** away the dog by yanking hard on the little fellow's neck collar w/the leash. I thought to myself, "what a ****!" and looked up from squatting on the floor, about to pet this maybe 7 lb. canine, which was now out of my reach. I looked up to see-Donald Sutherland! I told him, "always with the negative thoughts!," stood-up and walked-away. Stupid prick.
 
you may be correct on the "quote"
also, woof woof. that's my dog. woof woof, that's my other dog. or something like that.
Kelly's Heros
One of my all time favorites.
 
on powdercoating brake calipers. I got you can do with them still together. push piston all the way in. BUT how clean does the inside have to be in that is it ok to have residual brake fluid inside the unit? will the oven cooking have an effect, fire etc?
 
Hi all,
I'm currently stripping down and rebuilding my perfectly good 1988 Vmax in order to make it look prettier. So my question is does anyone know of a reason NOT to get the final drive housing powder coated? Will it survive the heat etc?
Cheers all.
 
Hi all,
I'm currently stripping down and rebuilding my perfectly good 1988 Vmax in order to make it look prettier. So my question is does anyone know of a reason NOT to get the final drive housing powder coated? Will it survive the heat etc?
Cheers all.

i have heard of a few powdeercoating the pumpkin but most paint. I heard it is a royal pain in the arse to take apart.
Michael
 
You do NOT have to take it apart to just its shell to PC.
Pull apart the ring gear, flush it well in the parts cleaner, rinse it with water then wipe it down with metal prep. Not too much to tape off really. The shock mount and the plug threads. That's it, PC away. They got hot in normal running so PC curing temps won't hurt it either.
 
Personally, I'd pull it apart then PC...If I'm not mistaken there are oil seals that may/may not stand up to cure temps...kinda like calipers...why would you risk it???? Yes it's a pain in the *** to pull the pumpkin and calipers apart...but there is the right way and the "other" way...

It's your ***...it's your choice...:ummm:
 
You can even ask Morley how enjoyable a task it is the blow apart a rear differential to its component parts. Some of those races are near impossible to remove and experience and intelligence produces desired results without all the necessity of a full disassembly of many components related to their PCing.
 
There is one needle bearing that was not taken out when I did mine, but it was all metal so no risk of failure. Be carefull about questioning one's intelligence...once you think you know everything...you find out just how little you really know about everything...
 
So true! More fingers have been lost, more eyes put out and worse by the exercise of "Intelligence"

Point taken.
 
going to revisit this thread. On PCing brake calipers whole. push in the piston etc. BUT how will the rubber gasket inside hold up or will it need to be replaced?
Michael
 
I and a few other guys in the family got yeti coozies for xmas.

A custom PC'D coozie would eliminate a lot of arguing over who's beer is who's

Black chrome would be cool
 
What's a yeti cup? And personally, I'd remove anything questionable...at 400 degrees, most rubber doesn't do well...I've PC'd the rear wheel with the cush rubbers in...they survived, but you'd wouldn't want then to go through another cure cycle...and they are very dense...
 
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