Air filter cleaning

[ShawnD]

For those with a K&N filter, how often are you cleaning/re-oiling the air filter? Service manual says to replace the filter at 24K miles so I assume that would be a good guess to clean it, or maybe a little before.

 

[Fire-medic]

If you read about the K&N filter, they actually work better 'dirty.' I know it sounds like that shouldn't be the case, but it is. This is one of those cases where some swear-by the K&N, while others swear-at them.

I use one, and would clean and re-oil it after several years.

 

[ShawnD]

If you read about the K&N filter, they actually work better 'dirty.'

I've heard that too. From what I recall, the K&N will filter better until the media becomes too saturated with contaminants & then it just starts flowing less air. A stock paper filter, on the other hand, once it reaches saturation can actually start tearing away & get ingested into the cylinder. Cotton fibers in the K&N isn't as prone to tearing as the paper in stock filter.

 

[user 80813]

I've heard that too. From what I recall, the K&N will filter better until the media becomes too saturated with contaminants & then it just starts flowing less air. A stock paper filter, on the other hand, once it reaches saturation can actually start tearing away & get ingested into the cylinder. Cotton fibers in the K&N isn't as prone to tearing as the paper in stock filter.

If anyone neglects an air filter to the point it gets clogged, causing the engine vacuum to tear it apart and digest the filter media......I would say that you have a lot more neglect problems.

With tat said, my first tour in Iraq we had to clean our trucks' air filters on a daily basis when driving through the desert or a sandstorm. If we didn't, the engine made zero power and barley exceeded idle RPMs. I never seen a filter torn apart though. Oil-soaked foam filters. on the other hand, will deteriorate over time and just crumble.

 

[ShawnD]

With tat said, my first tour in Iraq we had to clean our trucks' air filters on a daily basis when driving through the desert or a sandstorm. If we didn't, the engine made zero power and barley exceeded idle RPMs.

I was in Saudi the beginning of 2003. Yeah, they call it 'sand' but it aint like the stuff we have on our beaches...it was almost as fine as talcum powder & that crap got everywhere.

 

[Woody]

I clean and oil my k&n pods every spring . As I get the max ready for the riding season.

When racing ATV's.I cleaned foam filters and applied new oil.every ride.some days (dusty ones) I would swap filters .when we took breaks.I didn't run K&N off road. Seen to many k&n users get water and sand in their motors.

 

[Jerry Klay]

I clean and re oil sometime after about+5k miles. Takes longer to get to the dam filter then to clean and oil it. As you all know, what a dumb design.

 

[Davelaf]

I have wanted to know if I should put a k &n in the Vmax. It has the Dynojet stage 7 jet kit in it, got the unused kit with bike, and I don't want to have to do anything. Wondering if I would even notice a difference? The "runs better when dirty" sounds like the extra foam piece that you use on a 87 Honda(I know) Magna k&n filter. Runs better with it. I don't know if it made a difference on magna because it wasn't running when I got it, well, not running right. By the way, SeaFoam worked wonders on that bike.
Oh yeah, VMAX. So is it worth the 100 odd dollars, if your OEM is clean.?

 

[Woody]

Stage 7 uses individual pod style k&n filters. (4 total)
And no air box.

 

[Fire-medic]

Stage 7 uses individual pod style k&n filters. (4 total)
And no air box.

My '92 is tuned to run w/a K&N OEM replacement filter in the OEM airbox. It runs Stage 7 and pulls cleanly to redline. I use the DYNA dip-switch ignition box for its rev-limiter and adjustable ignition curve. Prevention of over-revving will prolong your engine's life if you like to run to (or inadvertently past, w/the OEM box) redline.

 

[Jack Hammer]

I've got the OEM style K&N in the modified OEM box. I don't ride in dusty conditions. I've had the filter on for few years, inspect it annually and never even needed to clean and re-oil it.

 

[Davelaf]

I've got the OEM style K&N in the modified OEM box. I don't ride in dusty conditions. I've had the filter on for few years, inspect it annually and never even needed to clean and re-oil it.

Did it make a difference, the K&N over the stock?? Now I'm wondering if the shop used the Stage 7 kit when I had carbs gone through, WOODY said it 7 kit has the 4 individual air filters and mine doesn't. Is that correct? Dynojet 7 has to? Or can? 4 pod air filters, or 1?? The mechanic did say it was going to get bad gas mileage and it's a reputable shop as far as I know.

 

[Jack Hammer]

Well, if Stage 7 recommends having individual filters then it is a good idea to ask why? I'm a firm believer of air boxes, so I'd not be using individual filters in open air. That is just my opinion, nothing else. I do have a reason for saying this, a technical reason, but I'm not getting into that.

 

[Woody]

My '92 is tuned to run w/a K&N OEM replacement filter in the OEM airbox. It runs Stage 7 and pulls cleanly to redline. I use the DYNA dip-switch ignition box for its rev-limiter and adjustable ignition curve. Prevention of over-revving will prolong your engine's life if you like to run to (or inadvertently past, w/the OEM box) redline.

The dyno kit recommends. 4 individual pod filters.
Yes there are other ways to achieve, the same performance. With a Stage 7 kit. But dyno recommends the 4 pods for a reason. Could it be the pods came out for sale. Years before the oem replacement k&n was available.
My 85 has had a stage 7 kit since 89. And Pods where the only option.

 

[Davelaf]

The dyno kit recommends. 4 individual pod filters.
Yes there are other ways to achieve, the same performance. With a Stage 7 kit. But dyno recommends the 4 pods for a reason. Could it be the pods came out for sale. Years before the oem replacement k&n was available.
My 85 has had a stage 7 kit since 89. And Pods where the only option.

That makes sense, sorry for putting you out on main Street there. So I think I'm just going to keep the OEM filter til it needs replaced. Bike only has 17k on it. Runs scary fast.

 

[Davelaf]

My '92 is tuned to run w/a K&N OEM replacement filter in the OEM airbox. It runs Stage 7 and pulls cleanly to redline. I use the DYNA dip-switch ignition box for its rev-limiter and adjustable ignition curve. Prevention of over-revving will prolong your engine's life if you like to run to (or inadvertently past, w/the OEM box) redline.

The adjustable ignition sounds interesting. Does it change while you are accelerating, or you can just change it according to fuel, altitude, temp, ect. to run better. A rev limiter is always a good idea. Is that Dyna? Or dynajet??

 

[one2dmax]

Or you stay running a single filter with your airbox but in a different configuration like our popular Muscle jet kit.

 

[Davelaf]

Or you stay running a single filter with your airbox but in a different configuration like our popular Muscle jet kit.

Is there somewhere i can read up on the Muscle jet kit.?

 

[Fire-medic]

DYNA is a company building aftermarket ignition boxes. They also manufacture ignition coils.

Dynojet makes carburetor kits for the V Max and others.

The Sean Morley jet kit is popular with members, and it has a good reputation for producing power over stock, and you get Sean's expertise if you run into some issue along the way. Morley's Muscle has a Facebook page.

Here's a recent thread about carburetion you may find of use.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/engine-not-revving-and-sputtering-at-6000rpm-and-above.52229/