nidyanazo
Well-Known Member
Just thought I'd share with ya'll a list of mods I did to the airbox.
So I have a K&N filter (single large type) and noticed that there is extra lip around the area where air enters. Remove the faux tank cover and look at the airbox.
On top of it, there are screws holding the actual little air funnel piece to the airbox body. Remove it, and look down at the rectangular opening, where the air enters.
You will see you can trim a full 3/8" off of the sides of it, and a corresponding 3/8" off of the filter lip. This effectively widens the air entry point, allowing for more air to enter.
I then drilled holes in the little air funnel piece that needs to be removed to see the rectangle hole where the trimming occurs.
On the underside of this air funnel piece (again it's the very top part that screws to the airbox lid) you can trim the ridge running down the center line, and drill holes all over it for more flow.
Moving inside the airbox, I pulled the main lid to expose the air filter. Looking down, you can see the rubber funnels on each carb. I carefully trimmed a little crescent / half moon shaped cut on each one, where the rubber touches the air filter. This allows air to directly flow from the filter into the funnel. I did not reduce the overall height of the stacks.
Then I removed the little velocity stacks connecting hoses, and pulled the filter. Leave these parts off when you re assemble!
Under the filter, there are 3 screws at the back of the box, and you can remove a plastic piece that the filter sits on. Doing this creates more volume in the airbox.
Finally under that, I plugged the hole at the bottom of the airbox.
Result is noticeable. I lost a bit of low/mid, but gained high rpm power. This is normal due to the v-stack cutting. It's why My R1 has the electronic v-stacks that move up and down depending on rpm- but since they are fixed in position on the max', cutting them down just permanently alters the airflow characteristics.
Another sweet effect of all this is you can hear those suckers 'gulping' the air- put it in 3rd gear at 3000rpm and crank the throttle and you'll really hear the intake sound!
I'll get a little video later on. Well worth the time spent, especially with a little carb tuning. Combined with the washer under the needles trick it really added to the bike's power delivery!
So I have a K&N filter (single large type) and noticed that there is extra lip around the area where air enters. Remove the faux tank cover and look at the airbox.
On top of it, there are screws holding the actual little air funnel piece to the airbox body. Remove it, and look down at the rectangular opening, where the air enters.
You will see you can trim a full 3/8" off of the sides of it, and a corresponding 3/8" off of the filter lip. This effectively widens the air entry point, allowing for more air to enter.
I then drilled holes in the little air funnel piece that needs to be removed to see the rectangle hole where the trimming occurs.
On the underside of this air funnel piece (again it's the very top part that screws to the airbox lid) you can trim the ridge running down the center line, and drill holes all over it for more flow.
Moving inside the airbox, I pulled the main lid to expose the air filter. Looking down, you can see the rubber funnels on each carb. I carefully trimmed a little crescent / half moon shaped cut on each one, where the rubber touches the air filter. This allows air to directly flow from the filter into the funnel. I did not reduce the overall height of the stacks.
Then I removed the little velocity stacks connecting hoses, and pulled the filter. Leave these parts off when you re assemble!
Under the filter, there are 3 screws at the back of the box, and you can remove a plastic piece that the filter sits on. Doing this creates more volume in the airbox.
Finally under that, I plugged the hole at the bottom of the airbox.
Result is noticeable. I lost a bit of low/mid, but gained high rpm power. This is normal due to the v-stack cutting. It's why My R1 has the electronic v-stacks that move up and down depending on rpm- but since they are fixed in position on the max', cutting them down just permanently alters the airflow characteristics.
Another sweet effect of all this is you can hear those suckers 'gulping' the air- put it in 3rd gear at 3000rpm and crank the throttle and you'll really hear the intake sound!
I'll get a little video later on. Well worth the time spent, especially with a little carb tuning. Combined with the washer under the needles trick it really added to the bike's power delivery!