all 4 coils cracked

[Pissed off Veteran]

Hello, Been awhile since I posted. I can usaully find everything I need thru the search. Finally got my baby back together 88 vmax and running. Was fixing it up to sell but I am defiantly in love will this lady and she can be mean. All 4 of my coils are cracked and they are expensive for all 4. I'm looking at COP's. Is this a good choice?

 

[wilks]

Cracked doesn’t mean they’re bad in fact unless the bikes running bad they’re probably perfectly fine.

 

[Fire-medic]

You have the analog ignition module (1985-'89) which seems to have issues with longevity if you switch to COP's without adding a resistor to each, to present the same load to the ignition as does the OEM traditional primary coil set of four. This is anecdotal evidence that it happens at-all. I am not an electrical engineer nor a whiz with electrical systems. I follow whatever procedure is described in the factory manual to diagnose things like ignition systems. As most of us know, the Gen. 1 was never offered with COP's.

CaptainKyle has a video on youtube I believe, about the question of VMax coils being cracked, and if that affects the function of individual coils. If you use the search function and his screen name, you should be able to get one mechanic's experience with the OEM coils. To cut to the chase, he believes very few OEM VMax coils with exterior cracks actually have those cracks detrimentally affect their operation.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

Well I bought the ignitech from morley muscle, carbs are rebuilt and it don't seem to idle right. I did synchronize carbs. I get it running fine then the next time I start it the idle needs adjusted again. so what if it rains and water gets on them coils with the crack?

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

So if I go COP I need the resistor COP's even with ignitech? Oh I did check for air leaks also. I am familiar with Kyle watched a few of his vids. It just seems like misses come and go.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

I found it using search function, With ignitech I do need Resistor COP's. Says it does better with hot starts too which I have been having a problem with too.

 

[wilks]

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

Wow, very informative. Ty.

 

[VMAXXIMUM]

So if I go COP I need the resistor COP's even with ignitech? Oh I did check for air leaks also. I am familiar with Kyle watched a few of his vids. It just seems like misses come and go.

No …not necessarily. The evidence suggests that the ignitech can handle cop’s with no resistors. Talk to Sean

 

[CaptainKyle]

As shown in my video you might just need new wires and caps.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

Brand new caps and wires Captain, new fuel tank, new pump, all intake gaskets and o-rings, new spark plugs, ignitech. New swingarm bearings thanks to your video. New coolant hoses and o-rings. New stator and regulator, had to get new generator case previous owner strip out threads for stator screws. Getting 14.44 volts now. Carbs rebuilt. New clutch and front brake master cylinders, rear brake master cylinder rebuilt, calipers rebuilt new ECU brake pads, new braided brake lines and clutch line, slave cylinder rebuilt. Probably 3 - 4000 invested.

 

[Fire-medic]

All good repairs/replacements.

Couldn't you have heli-coiled the stator case screw holes?

Did you do the 'crimp-fix?'

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

Actually 2 of the 3 screw holes were heli-coiled but it was half ass job just terrible. even the screw holes holding the wire retainer were butchered. I forgot all about crimp fix. but i'm getting 14.44 volts at battery at 2-3000 rpm. Should I still do it? **** I'll go and take a look right now.

 

[Fire-medic]

The crimp fix is often good for a volt increase. If you don't get that, it's still better than not doing it. The R/R controls the charging voltage anyway. Take a reading before & after at the crimp fix and see what you get, and report back.