At what point do you replace the starter clutch gear ?

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cccpull

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I've seen all these threads on replacing the starter clutch, but when it comes to replacing the starter gear there isn't much information. Even the service manual just says to check for wear, but there are no specs on the amount of wear of the boss or the inside bushing. Does the damage have to be that obvious?
Thanks
 
I've done 3 starter clutches and didn't replace the gear at all. On inspection didn't notice tooth wear at all.

My $.02.
 
I've done 3 starter clutches and didn't replace the gear at all. On inspection didn't notice tooth wear at all.

My $.02.

Wasn't really worried about determining tooth wear, I was thinking about the starter gear surface that contacts the rollers on the starter clutch and inside bronze bearing wear.
 
I check the outer roller contact surface for smoothness. Not looking for perfect but I don't want it to be flat spotted like a stop sign either.
 
The gears themselves I have never heard of failing, just the clutch....so I'd say just about never unless there's a broken tooth or something due to misalignment from no side cover gasket or incorrect "gear washer" placement.
 
Of course concerning the clutch itself, even the tiniest of cracks around the bolt holes and it's time to replace. Of course you might be hearing the crunchy noise upon hitting the starter. Funny thing is on my Rattlecan Special, it started out ok, then made the sound sporadically.
 
Of course concerning the clutch itself, even the tiniest of cracks around the bolt holes and it's time to replace. Of course you might be hearing the crunchy noise upon hitting the starter. Funny thing is on my Rattlecan Special, it started out ok, then made the sound sporadically.


+1,
Mine made the rattle sound once or thrice over a period of months, then was fine/ok for another year, then failed completely after that.
 
I check the outer roller contact surface for smoothness. Not looking for perfect but I don't want it to be flat spotted like a stop sign either.

mine had started to wear like that, but not bad, when in inspected it.
 
Thanks all for the responses. My starter clutch was no longer cranking the engine. it gave up a few months ago and I finally got around to working on it. I also had one of those nightmare flywheel removals. The clutch had 2 cracks complete from side to side on the same section on the outer and inner side
The clutch gear has visible markings of where the rollers hit, but it's so smooth you can't feel it with your fingers. I appreciate the responses since as I mentioned, there were no specs to go by and I really didn't want to do it again. I've owned my bike sine new (1997) and at 60,000 miles, there went the starter clutch.:surprise:
 
That ain't bad mileage but who knows how many starts that adds up to. Bill S has 100k mi.
I don't think the parts are all that bad cost wise. Once you know the flywheel removal technique, it's a cinch to do. My personal tip is "don't be a ***** when whacking the puller". Never failed me.
Thanks for the update.
 
Wasn't bragging about the mileage, don't ride much anymore. But this was the first time the bike had broken down.
I've had other bikes during this time, they're gone and the Vmax is still here. We use to (still do ) call it , "the tool".:biglaugh:
 
I'd like to revive this question.
The starter clutch on my '90 failed... bolts loose and clutch housing cracked. Inspecting the gear reveals chatter marks on the drive surface that you can see and feel (about .002-.003" deep). Not rough but "dented" where the rollers engage. The bolts had been staked, so I'm guessing that somebody had already been in there.
I already have a new OEM clutch assembly ready to install. Should I be concerned about cracking it again unless I replace the gear... or should it last another 30K mis?
 
The bolts are factory staked. Just not very well.
I tried staking mine when doing new install and in spite of having more tools than I know what to do with nothing I had would stake them. Ended up doing red loc tite
 
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