Barnett Conversion

[Peterbilt387X]

So I have been searching the forums and there is a lot of advice/opinions on which clutch option to choose. Basically, I've narrowed it down to these:

1. Barnett Conversion
2. PCW
3. DD

I am pretty set on getting the Barnett conversion and the HD springs (90lbs). With that being said, should I change out the clutch/friction plates as well? And if so, which do I choose? I haven't torn apart my bike yet so I don't know the condition of the plates. I do know that the bike slips, especially when I shift gears during V-Boost. I am 250lbs, so could that be a factor as well?

The bike is a 1997 w/ UFO 4-1 slash cut, Dale Walker stage 1 jets, Y-removed, and I think that is it. I bought it with the Dale Walker exhaust and stage 1s but quickly removed the exhaust because I wanted something more aggressive sounding. I will be upgrading to a Stage 7 or Morley, depending if I can get some answers about the Morley kit. I do not take the bike to the drag strip - mostly just cruising on back roads w/ my friends and their Harleys or rockets, quick pulls once in awhile.

Also, feel free to share your opinion of other options. I am a relatively new V-Max owner (bought it as my first bike - always wanted one). I've heard the DD is hard on transmission parts so I am hesitant about that. I would rather do it right.

 

[Fire-medic]

I don't think you need to go to the expense of the Barnett conversion, the stock style diaphragm spring works well, and the PCW spring replacement is a bit stronger, w/o giving you the workout of the DD (tougher to pull).

Your friction discs are probably in need of replacement, steelies rarely go bad, just scuff them and replace after confirming their dimension (thickness). Being blue (the steelies), however is something that should only happen to Smurfs.

If you want a bit more grab, the PCW extra friction plate kit comes w/new OEM Yamaha friction plates, a gasket, and order their better spring. All bolt-in & go. Save your $ and put it towards getting radials down the road, requiring a modded rear wheel, or Sean's Carrozzeria upgrade pair of wheels, or something used off the internet.

 

[[email protected]]

I use a DD setup. If I were to do it over again, I would go with the PCW spring. Cheaper than the Barnett and works very well. The Barnett will work just fine with your setup too if that is what you want to use.

I would replace the friction plates. OEM is the best bet. If the thickness is within spec, they can be reused but if you going to tear it all apart, its not a bad idea to replace.

The steel plates can be reused most of the time. Check them out. Measure thickness. Check for signs of overheating (blue color). Make sure they are flat. If all above is OK (usually is) hit them with a scotchbrite pad or sandpaper. You just need to break the glaze off of the surface of the plates.

Use a conventional oil for best clutch performance. Most synthetics cause problems in our clutch.

(FM beat me to the punch)

 

[DMAN999]

As FM stated above the PCW HD spring works well and is a good option.
Also OEM Yamaha frictions are the most recommended for use in our bike.
And like FM said you can re-use the steels, as long as they are still within specs and not warped.
I just scrubbed mine with a scotch-brite pad and replaced the friction plates.

I weigh about 180 lbs. and have a Barnett with the gold (75 lb) springs in my basically stock 2000 and I like it a LOT.
It's about 20-25% stronger than stock and is smoother due to the more even pressure applied by the 6 springs.
If you do get the Barnett I'd recommend using the Green Springs (82 lb.) at most.
The few guys I know that tried the red (99 lb) springs ended up switching back to the green or even gold springs because the red were too much and made the lever pull a lot harder.

 

[Fire-medic]

"Brilliant minds think alike," right guys?

So here you have several owners saying essentially the same thing, that should help you to make up your mind.

I do like the transparent clutch cover w/that candy-color Barnett pressure plate playing 'peek-a-boo.'

Guys enter the store, buy a couple packages of underwear and socks, the same pants in different colors, and the same for a few shirts. They're headed out of the mall in 45 minutes. Our wives/GF's, are still debating their first purchases...

 

[DMAN999]

"Brilliant minds think alike," right guys?

So here you have several owners saying essentially the same thing, that should help you to make up your mind.

I do like the transparent clutch cover w/that candy-color Barnett pressure plate playing 'peek-a-boo.'

Guys enter the store, buy a couple packages of underwear and socks, the same pants in different colors, and the same for a few shirts. They're headed out of the mall in 45 minutes. Our wives/GF's, are still debating their first purchases...

Absolutely !
IMO a PCW HD spirng or Barnett clutch conversion are the best options.
I have never been a fan of the DD Mod because I have seen too many guys snapping shafts or destroying their tranny after doing that mod.

 

[Traumahawk]

I have the DD mod. I like it...but like most mods it comes down to what you want to do. The DD mod isnt hard on the transmission its self, but it depends if YOUR hard on the transmission. If you do burnouts and the like....with a sticky tire on, then yes, you are putting abuse on the transmission, because with the DD mod, the clutch WONT slip.

 

[one2dmax]

I have the DD mod. I like it...but like most mods it comes down to what you want to do. The DD mod isnt hard on the transmission its self, but it depends if YOUR hard on the transmission. If you do burnouts and the like....with a sticky tire on, then yes, you are putting abuse on the transmission, because with the DD mod, the clutch WONT slip.

Exactly.

 

[eggohead]

Not sure about the PCW, but I have the Barnett on one bike and a DD on the other.. I like how smooth and easy my Barnett is over the DD( will wear you out in traffic), still very smooth.. both seem to hook up pretty good. didn't realize I had a Barnett until I had to changed out my plates. See if you can find someone with them on their bike, see which one you like the feeling of more.. Biggest take I see is how much you want to spend.. If the monkey bites you he doesn't usually stop at one thing.. It will all add up... I would say try the DD, if it wear you out go to the PCW or Barnett. They only reason I have the Barnett is the Prior owner had changed it out, I had no way of know. Good luck either way, the clutch is very easy job to do...

 

[Redbone]

I had the DD in my old engine and now with the new engine I have the PCW. Both hold well, no slipping that I can tell but I stopped the burnouts when I went with Shinko's, both bias and now radial tires.

 

[fmcandrew]

I have the Barnett with the normal springs and am very happy with it. Your second question about changing the disks out was a no-brainer for me. If in there doing the conversion then why not start off with a fresh set of frictions and scuff/bead-blast the steels if they are at all blued...oh, be sure to use a gasket when buttoning it back up...gasket sealer alone wont give the shifter the clearence it needs...my $0.02

 

[Fire-medic]

FYI, I personally wouldn't use a blued 'steelie,' that's overheated and shouldn't be returned to service. If it's shiny and smooth, sand it or as fmcandrew suggests, glass-bead blast it to give it 'tooth,' oil everything up, and re-install your new friction plates, including the full-width replacement one to take the place of the half-width one. And yes, you need the gasket.

 

[eggohead]

I had the DD in my old engine and now with the new engine I have the PCW. Both hold well, no slipping that I can tell but I stopped the burnouts when I went with Shinko's, both bias and now radial tires.

That's no FUN... I am pretty sure that's why my first clutch went.. I had been riding on this one for about 15K. I did a steel plate exchange( bead blasted) with Sean for like $20.. since I got rid of the 1/2 the Barnett bits a little harder.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

I have a Barnett on one of he bikes and I like it but I'm using different masters so I'm suspicious

 

[Peterbilt387X]

Thank you for all the input! I saw the most recent post in the "clutch" section was from a few years ago so I was worried that the site was fading away.

As for the clutch, I've decided I'm going to go with the Barnett conversion. Money isn't that big of a problem, especially with low-cost items like this. It's heck of a lot cheaper than my big 'ol F-250 clutch! Plus my dad swore by his Barnett in his Kawasaki GT750 "Water Buffalo". I ordered the conversion and heavier springs from Amazon for $149.86 OTD. Little did I realize that I needed a gasket so that will be full price (I'm sure) from the local Yamaha dealer. I got a quote for $13 per friction plate, but I may get a discount since my father used to work there.

In regards to the last friction plate, Fire-Medic said that the replacement comes with a full width? According to Yamaha parts, they are only sold per. Does that mean I just buy nine? I haven't busted the bike apart so I have no idea how many there are or what it looks like inside. I'm thinking of waiting until after 3/8/16 when we are supposed to get a 62 degree day up here in Ohio (will be riding!).

Sorry about all the questions folks, I just want to do it right from the start. Thanks again!

 

[[email protected]]

Check out this link
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

It should cover your questions

 

[DMAN999]

^ Read that guide and you can get the frictions a bit cheaper online:
Here:
http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/50043b9df8700209bc78d3ee/clutch

Or here:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1997/V-MAX%201200%20-%20VMX12J/CLUTCH/parts.html

 

[Fire-medic]

'dman999' is sending you to two good parts sources. I use either one. The link to levelhead's site will explain the clutch work in detail.

For what you spent on the Barnett conversion pressure plate/springs alone, you could have gotten the friction discs, including the extra one, the heavy-duty diaphragm spring, and the side cover gasket. But, your choice. Now you need to get a transparent engine side cover to watch the Barnett go 'round & 'round.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

'dman999' is sending you to two good parts sources. I use either one. The link to levelhead's site will explain the clutch work in detail.

For what you spent on the Barnett conversion pressure plate/springs alone, you could have gotten the friction discs, including the extra one, the heavy-duty diaphragm spring, and the side cover gasket. But, your choice. Now you need to get a transparent engine side cover to watch the Barnett go 'round & 'round.

And with that i can help you

 

[Peterbilt387X]

I cracked open the basket and of course, all frictions and steels are no bueno. Going up to Yamaha in the AM to get new ones. Do y'all get a new clutch plate wire of use the old one?