Battery? Won't run?

[kalbo]

I was riding home last night and about 1 mile from my house, the bike just died. When I attempted to restart it but the battery was flat. I know there is no problem with the charging system, as I have a voltmeter on the bike, which showed it was putting out at least 13+ V when running. I called up a friend who came out and we jump started it. Although it would fire up, as soon as the jump leads were removed it would cough, sputter and die again.
I ended up pushing the bike the last mile home, stopping every 100 meters to get my breath. Believe me, 1 mile is a very long way when you're pushing a 650 lb motorcycle. At one point whilst taking a rest at the side of the road, a passing car ran over my foot. Thanks to some fairly heavy duty boots, nothing was broken.
So here's my question. I'm assuming that the battery has reached the end of it's life and is no longer accepting or holding a charge. Would this cause a problem with the fuel pump and CDi etc. I'm no expert, but I'm guessing that power is supplied from the battery, and even with the engine running, without a working battery acting as an intermediary, most of the components won't work? At least I'm hoping that's the case and a new battery will resolve the problem.
I had noticed that the battery has been a little sluggish the last few weeks and would go flat if the bike wasn't used at least once every couple of days.

 

[EAGLEPI]

I was riding home last night and about 1 mile from my house, the bike just died. When I attempted to restart it but the battery was flat. I know there is no problem with the charging system, as I have a voltmeter on the bike, which showed it was putting out at least 13+ V when running. I called up a friend who came out and we jump started it. Although it would fire up, as soon as the jump leads were removed it would cough, sputter and die again.
I ended up pushing the bike the last mile home, stopping every 100 meters to get my breath. Believe me, 1 mile is a very long way when you're pushing a 650 lb motorcycle. At one point whilst taking a rest at the side of the road, a passing car ran over my foot. Thanks to some fairly heavy duty boots, nothing was broken.
So here's my question. I'm assuming that the battery has reached the end of it's life and is no longer accepting or holding a charge. Would this cause a problem with the fuel pump and CDi etc. I'm no expert, but I'm guessing that power is supplied from the battery, and even with the engine running, without a working battery acting as an intermediary, most of the components won't work? At least I'm hoping that's the case and a new battery will resolve the problem.
I had noticed that the battery has been a little sluggish the last few weeks and would go flat if the bike wasn't used at least once every couple of days.

Sorry to hear about your battery dying and it sucks that you had to walk your Vmax home a mile. when you buy a new battery I high suggest getting a Battery Tender Jr. for any long periods of time you may not ride. It will maintain your battery and keep your battery fully charged at all times.

With that said I feel for you, a mile pushing a Vmax is something I hope I never have to do.

 

[caseyjones955]

That is a sucky walk with such a big girl, sorry you had to endure that.

Once it's started the battery's job is done, the charging system should then provide the juice to run the vehicle and maintain the charge on the battery. I'm not sure if the battery could be so flat that it overwhelms the Vmax's arguably underwhelming stator. If you have the battery tender on it now then once it's fully charged put a decent multimeter across the battery + and - and read voltage, it should have a surface charge of around 12.5 and while it's starting the bike (under load) it shouldn't dip much below ~10v. With the bike running it should be at least 13.6 but not over 14.7. I would use a multimeter and not trust the onboard volt gauge, at least for the sake of troubleshooting.

I checked mine awhile back and it was a touch low at idle at 13.4 if I recall but with a few revs it was like 14.2. It works but I plan to upgrade the stator at some point. Bill has some great info on that floating around here somewhere.

 

[davesax36]

We'll get you through the battery thing, but can we please focus on the part where someone DROVE OVER YOUR FOOT?!?!?! That's crazy!

Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[[email protected]]

It's possible a totally deasy battery could cause this but i'd definitely check to see if the R/R is putting out the correct charging voltage and if not, check to see if the stator is producing enough AC voltage .

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Bill Seward]

I put up a post a while ago for a discount code at RM Stator. 20% off. They sell a high output unit for a Venture. If you're not getting good AC voltage, or the stator is shorted to ground, this is a good unit. If I had to replace the stator, I'd seriously consider getting the Shindengen SH775 Series regulator. There are numerous posts here, and information online why a series type regulator is a good idea. Before spending the money, first determine if you need the stator, the regulator, or both. I picked up a used SH775 for $40.00 shipped off EBay. It worked so well in the Max, I bought another one for the Roadstar.

 

[kalbo]

It took me 2 days to find a new battery, but I was able to fit it today. The bike is turning over but won't fire up. It was running fine before the battery died. The fuel pump clicks for a few seconds when I turn on the ignition and seems to be OK, so I don't think fuel is the problem. Any ideas what may be stopping it from firing up?

 

[davesax36]

Take the gas cap off and see if you get air rushing in. Maybe your vent line is blocked.

Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[D-Max2012]

Although it would fire up, as soon as the jump leads were removed it would cough, sputter and die again.

Once the engine is started and a stator is running correctly, it then supplies voltage to the regulator which distributes power to the rest of the bike, including the battery and CDI unit.
If your friend jumped your bike (he's now your 13.8volt source), and as soon at the jumper cables were removed, the bike started sputtering and died, that sounds like a regulator and / or / a stator issue.
Here are other clues.

I was riding home last night and about 1 mile from my house, the bike just died. When I attempted to restart it but the battery was flat. Sound like a busted regulator ((OR FUSE)).. If it was a busted CDI unit, the bike would not run correctly, even when jumped.

Hope this helps..

 

[kalbo]

I want to check to make sure it hasn't blown a fuse. I can only find the 4 x 10 amp and the two main 30 amp fuses...all of which are OK, are there anymore that might be preventing the bike firing??

 

[EAGLEPI]

Just thinking out loud, when you jumped it you said it ran good until the cables were taken off. So I agree with D-Max2012 , your system was running off the other one that jumped you.

It is somewhere in your battery, regulator I think you will only find the issue after replacing those 2 parts. It sucks and I am sorry you have to deal with this, I know how you must feel. When I had my 2007 I had carb issues and wanted to pull out my hair.

I hope you figure it out soon.

 

[kalbo]

I have checked all the obvious things. Battery is good, fuel supply is good and compression is good. I pulled one of the plugs which was a nice color, but there was no spark when checked I the plug. As there WAS a spark before I swapped the battery when I jump started it, but now even with a jump start there is no spark. I can only think that it must be something I have done whilst removing the old battery and fitting the new one.
I disconnected the HT leads from the rear coils and removed the two securing bolts to enable moving the coils to gain access to the battery. I fitted the new battery and reconnected the HT leads to the coils. I checked that all the wiring connectors were secure, and then replaced the two securing bolts. I put it all back as it had come apart.

 

[davesax36]

Ignition fuse? Main fuse?

Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[caseyjones955]

Did you check for spark at the plugs?

 

[Eugene Brad]

We'll get you through the battery thing, but can we please focus on the part where someone DROVE OVER YOUR FOOT?!?!?! That's crazy!

Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk

I'm with Dave. Did you get a make on the vehicle that committed a hit and run on you.

As for the no spark thing I'm not a wealth of knowledge but I would check relay and or connections/ conductors at side stand sensor too. That gets me everytime when i have the kickstand down and having trouble getting into neutral I'll clutch it and go to start it and nothing. Of course if it's turning over I guess you could scratch that idea.
Back to someones almost negligent man slaughter attempt on you....that had to give you about as much pucker factor as triple digits on the v max. Hope your foot is ok and hope you get the prob figured out.




Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

 

[Eugene Brad]

Clean any possible corrosion at connections. Electrical current, like water, can be stopped in its tracks with corrosion.

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

 

[D-Max2012]

It might be irrelevant, but when your bike failed on you the 1st time, did you happen to notice the bike would not feel the same once warmed up? Then once cooled down (maybe the next day), it ran fine again, till it warmed???

 

[The Beekeeper]

With key on check for 12v at one of your ign coils + side, if good then check while cranking, you can use a 12v test light, also be sure your kill switch is in the on position, report back...........................Tom.

 

[stobrien]

I've read the side stand switch can cause a problem like this.

 

[kalbo]

Where's the 'negative' to attach a test-lamp to check the CDi pulsing??