Best RPM to shift at

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I'm still running my Harlan so I only get the light at 9200 atm, the ecliptech sounds nice but I'm used to just the one light. I'll try 9200 to start and see how it goes.
Quick story about the Harlan; I washed the bike this summer and must of hit the Harlan with a spray of water and it quit working. I thought it was done but I when removed the cap, drained out the water then rode around until it started working normally again! I loaded it up with dielectric grease and it's worked just fine since. After all the trouble everyone else has had with the Harlan, I guess I'm just lucky with mine...
 
OK, so my Dynatek order failed anyhow. I did it through the website and I guess it didn't work.

So, Sean it is.

I'll message him about it and a shift light.

I like the idea of a shift light, what's everyone's preference there, it seems many of you have one.
 
OK, so my Dynatek order failed anyhow. I did it through the website and I guess it didn't work.

So, Sean it is.

I'll message him about it and a shift light.

I like the idea of a shift light, what's everyone's preference there, it seems many of you have one.

i love my ecliptech!
 
And yes, I know I don't 'need' to shift into 2nd to pass, but I was having fun.

I hear you on just having fun, I love any and every opportunity to pass someone, just another excuse to open her up!! : )

I have my shift light setup to 9300 and limiter at 9500. With my setup, the higher the RPM, the more power I make...I can prob see quite a bit extra HP if I bumped the limiter to 10,000, but Its just not worth the risk.....these bikes are quick AND reliable. Dont over-rev them and keep up on maint and she'll treat you right....

Definitely invest in a Dyna or other rev limiting device. I hit mine ALL the time...
 
I don't race and never had a "need" for a shift light. Can't you all feel your motor asking for another gear and falling on it's face powerwise when the revs build? I'm sure there is a reason the pros use them to get squeak hundreths out of their machines. But to pass a cager? I am more concerned of keeping the valves from floating and blowing the motor, which by the way IS the rev limiter! LOL...
 
Can't you all feel your motor asking for another gear and falling on it's face powerwise when the revs build?

You've just hit the nail on head of why I feel the need for a rev limiter and a shift light.

According to the tach, I was at 10,500 RPM and yet the power was still building. I'm used to that feeling of the falling off power, and I felt none of that.

So, I need something to prevent me from turning my motor into a pile of worthless spare parts.
 
Redline is at 9500, and from most dyno sheets I've seen there is not much additional power to be had after 9000. I have my shift light set for 9000rpm giving me a split second reaction time to shift before 9500 in the lower gears. This is assuming full throttle acceleration. If Im simply out for a lazy ride or with a group I rarely get into the vboost range, and typically shift below 5000rpm.
 
Guess my arse is more finely tuned than my bike but then again, I've been riding a Max since 86. LOL. Haven't blown one up yet but don't want to put the whammy on myself ! I'm only assuming a good "feel" for the powerband is why CaptainKyle and Sean and Jay and Cornell turn better times than most of us.
 
I have tried all kinds of diffrent shift points at the dragstrip 9200 seems to be the Happy spot for me.

After that point with stock cams, the power begins to fall off very fast anyway.
I prefer my power low in the range anyway. Reving my FZ8 all the way out
just doesn't seem natural..

9200 for the Gen I Vmax seems perfect. I haven't raced on the strip
in eons but it works for me on the street. Hemi Challenger's and Cuda's
would agree.:clapping:392's at that...
 
I'll be curious to see what my tach displays when I set a rev limiter to 9500 RPM.

The more I read everyone's responses, I've concluded that either my tach is off by 500-1000 RPM or my bike is no where near stock.
I was told it had a mild port and polish, but nothing about cams.
But it was still pulling VERY strong and still building while displaying 10,500 RPM on the tach.
But what shocked me the most was when I shifted into 3rd and it pulled the front end off the ground.
In over 25,000 miles on my 86' Max I never had the front lift shifting 2-3, heck I don't think it would on a 1-2 shift.

Unfortunately it's about to get parked for the winter...
 
I'll be curious to see what my tach displays when I set a rev limiter to 9500 RPM.

The more I read everyone's responses, I've concluded that either my tach is off by 500-1000 RPM or my bike is no where near stock.
I was told it had a mild port and polish, but nothing about cams.
But it was still pulling VERY strong and still building while displaying 10,500 RPM on the tach.
But what shocked me the most was when I shifted into 3rd and it pulled the front end off the ground.
In over 25,000 miles on my 86' Max I never had the front lift shifting 2-3, heck I don't think it would on a 1-2 shift.

Unfortunately it's about to get parked for the winter...

Go dyno it before the snow flies & post the #'s/map.
 
One thing I always wondered about was Yamaha changing the redline from 9500 to 9000 a few years before the end of the gen one. Anyone know why they did that? :confused2:
 
One thing I always wondered about was Yamaha changing the redline from 9500 to 9000 a few years before the end of the gen one. Anyone know why they did that? :confused2:

Probably in the interests of longevity, don't spin it as-hard & you get longer engine life. Of course, as well all have seen, they essentially avoided real advances like no radials even-though they could have done that and significantly increased their customers' satisfaction and riding enjoyment and the capabilities of the bike. A rev limiter seems like a natural, given the nature of the beast, another omission-by-choice. :confused2:
 
One thing I thought was they lowered the redline to lessen the potential o-ring problem. Less rpm, less pressure on the o-ring? Seems it was about that same time they updated the oil pipe system to fix the o-ring problem. (Around 2003?) Just speculation... :biglaugh:
 
The redline I am sure was a reduction to help get longer life and extend the life of the rods since the high RPM's is where it really stresses the system. The oil pressure levels off around 60-70psi no matter the rpm. The higher the rpm though the more you actually need the pressure so since it's leveled off you can't get the extra you need.
 
I read somewhere that the shift light was made for fuel economy on the beginning, if you guys would be using it for fuel economy, which rpm you think would be the best to set up at? arround 4000? in case of the Gen1
 
I have my shift light Set at 9200 rpm's while the Dyna 3000 rev limiter is at 9500 rpm's. I have pcw stage 3 cams with HD springs, PCW's pro oiler setup so hitting the 9500 rpms occasionally will not be critical.
 

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