Best stock carb kit

[James t]

Good morning guys my 85 was only 5,000 miles is all original and stock, it's set for a couple of months and it won't idle at all , it pops out the exhaust and as soon as I come to a stop it dies seems like the choke is on all the time but it's not, I'm going to take the carbs and go through them again what is the best carb kit and where can I get it for a stock bike thanks

 

[CaptainKyle]

Either factory Yamaha parts or K&L kits don't fall for all the cheap crap on Ebay you will learn the hard way.

 

[James t]

And where do I get the k&l kit do I just do a Google search for it

 

[James t]

No I won't buy the crap off of fleabay for $20 I might have been born yesterday but I've been up all night

 

[caseyjones955]

I got my K&L kits off Ebay and have only good things to say about them (the kits, not Ebay).

K&L are a Japanese aftermarket mfr where the other off branded/unbranded kits are typically seen on Ebay are of Chinese origin.

 

[James t]

Okay okay guys I'll check out fleabay and look for the k&l thanks for your help

 

[James t]

I got one more question guys is there a way to get the float seat out seems like it's pressed in or do I really even need to change them also under the jet block is an o-ring does that o-ring go under the gasket or does it go between the gasket and jet block

 

[Radioguylogs]

I think most of us don't change the float seat because it is a big effort to do it and it is normally not necessary. I didn't change mine.

Sorry, it's been a while since I did my carbs and I don't remember the answer to your O-ring question.

 

[Fire-medic]

I put the gasket on first and then the O-ring, then the jet block.

 

[dannymax]

And I do the opposite of FM...put the 'E' tube in, slide the o-ring on, then the gasket, then the jet block.

If the float seat is in good condition it does not need replacing...toothpaste on a Q-tip lightly spun in a drill will put a bright smile on them.

If they need replacing jack them out with a C-clamp...if you get in trouble send them to Dannymax. LOL

 

[Fire-medic]

He is the guy I would ask carburetor questions of. Looking at the parts fiche it appears to be in the order I mentioned but honestly I doubt it makes any difference between dannymax's positioning and mine.

 

[Smithjs35]

Just got my K&L kit's but now I'm soo confused on the jet block issue. O ring first or gasket then o ring, anybody from Japan?

 

[Smithjs35]

All joking aside, I hope mine is factory and I'll note how it came apart.

 

[Smithjs35]

Removed.

 

[02GF74]

Is this a 3rd option?

According to the exploded parts diagram.
O ring over the E tube, E tube into the jet block, and finally the gasket sandwiched between carb body and jet block

 

[Storloc]

Question? How many people spend $100 and change out all the jets or as long as you don't bugger them up reuse what you got.

I reuse unless obviously damaged.

 

[Sniffbooger]

My K&L parts said 'Made in Taiwan' on them.... not sure about the Japan manufacturing....the biggest issue I've found so far is the jet block gaskets from the aftermarket kits, including K&L are rubber and they expand and swell up after sitting in the ethanol gasoline after a couple days. They fit perfectly when I installed them new, then after a few days took my carbs apart again and they were swelled up and distorted, didn't fit good anymore when I took off the jet blocks. So I had to cut them in half and take out a strip so they would fit back under the jet blocks again. But I don't feel good about it. I am going to order an OEM jet block gasket set next time I open them up and replace my needles and Factory Pro HDJ emulsion tubes....

 

[Fire-medic]

Is this a 3rd option?

According to the exploded parts diagram.
O ring over the E tube, E tube into the jet block, and finally the gasket sandwiched between carb body and jet block

The emulsion tube (part #34) wide flange seats in the relief of the carb body passageway, centered in the venturi of the carb as pictured here (my attachment/pic).



Where it emerges on the other side in the float chamber, is where I install the jet block gasket (part #35), then the thin O-ring (part #33), and then the jet block (part #32, obsolete, not available), with its rubber plugs (part # 43, 45) in the end passageways for the two brass jets (part #42, 44) which screw into it.



The parts fiche shows the emulsion tube on the same side of the carburetor as the float chamber, which I believe is to show it clearly in its entirety. If you've disassembled the carbs and paid attention to the order of disassembly, you know the emulsion tube first inserts into the carb body from the slide/diaphragm side and then protrudes into the float chamber, where after placing the jet block gasket, the O-ring, and the jet block over the shaft of the emulsion tube, a brass machine screw (part #28, 29) and two small phillips screws w/washers [part #18, 19, 30, 31] (yes they're technically JIS screws, but for convention's sake, may we refer to them as 'phillips') secure the jet block to the carb body. Snug, not tight.

In deference to dannymax, placement of the O-ring and then the jet block gasket is another way to do this, and may be the factory method. I've referred to the fiche to guide me on assembly, which is why I've mentioned gasket over the emulsion tube shaft, then the O-ring.

 

[James t]

if you look on the jet block where the o-ring sits is beveled inward a little bit so the o-ring is made to fit inside that

 

[Woody]

if you look on the jet block where the o-ring sits is beveled inward a little bit so the o-ring is made to fit inside that

Beveled, that explains why my orings had a beveled edge.could be from them being in place. For many years.