Bleeding clutch

[Derek Benschoter]

I just bought a 96 vmax 1200 , it's my first bike so I dont know much about them yet, when I pull the clutch in, there is no resistance so i checked some other threads and ive tried bleeding the clutch like normal to get any air out and I've tried pumping fluid into the bleeder valve but there's no pressure going in or coming out of the bleeder valve, all I know is the previous owner hadn't rode it in about 3 years, the fluid definitely needs changed but I cant get past this issue.

 

[Fire-medic]

First, welcome, lots of info here.

Second, put your location by your screen name/avatar. Someone local may be a resource.

Third, try the reverse-bleed. It's faster than anything else. Directions for making your own reverse-bleeding tool for cheap are included (link, below).

Advantages for the reverse-bleed:
1] you push any air bubbles up & out of the plumbing
2] you completely-change all the fluid
3] it's fast to-do, a bit messy, immediately wipe-off any spilled fluid, as DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are all glycol-based, and will ruin painted surfaces. Note that DOT 5 and 5.1 are NOT compatible, and are NOT the same. DOT 5 is NOT compatible with DOT 3 or DOT 4 either
4] bleeding after total fluid replacement will prolong the brakes and the clutch master cylinders, and brake calipers. Glycol-based fluids are hygroscopic, they absorb water, which over-time, corrodes your components. Total fluid replacement is easiest with a reverse-bleed.

It's possible your clutch slave cylinder needs rebuilding or replacement. The link below also shows replacement of that.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/

 

[Bill Seward]

Swap the clutch bleeder valve for a Speed Bleeder. Do the brake calipers, too.

 

[desert_max]

Don’t you just love these guys that come in here, post a single question, get pointed help and then are never heard from again?

 

[ouchez]

Swap the clutch bleeder valve for a Speed Bleeder. Do the brake calipers, too.

I have a full set of speed bleeders installed, GREAT item!

 

[LazyLiberty]

Hi guys, I've got the same problem actually!
I've been through the bleeding process, no success (even though I heard some small bubbles once), then undid the slave cylinder connection to see if the problem was in the bleeder nipple, still nothing.
Next undid the connection at the master cylinder pump: still nothing coming out!
I took apart the inside of the master cylinder, and cleaned everything out but it looked in very decent shape: cup seal in perfect condition etc...

Why isn't the pump putting out ANYTHING, let alone build pressure? Not a single drop gets past the reservoir....?!
See video below for visual aid...

>>>>>>

 

[02GF74]

Is this how you are doing it?

=Squeeze the lever,
=undo bleed nipple, lever will reach full travel if not done so already
=tighten bleed nipple
=release lever.

Repeat until no bubbles are seen the fluid coming out of the tube connected to the nipple.

 

[LazyLiberty]

Yes it is, if you see the clip you'll know I'm beyond those steps: I took off the banjo bolt and the pump is moving no fluid whatsoever...

 

[user 16790]

take the piston out and check the rubber plunger on the end

 

[LazyLiberty]

I did! The cup seal and plunger ring are both in very good nick, that's why I'm puzzled...

 

[MaxMidnight]

Is the hole between the reservoir a piston bore clear?

 

[Parminio]

A friend of mines had the same issue. There was blockage in the pathway that wouldn't let it flow properly. In desperation I took a guitar string, gripped it with a pair of pliers and ran it through the hole like a pipe cleaner.

Presto.

 

[LazyLiberty]

I'm sure the hole is clean, I can spray brake clean through it. There's a pinsize hole and a toothpick size hole, and they both produce either bubbles or a movement in fluid in the reservoir...

 

[pgilliam1]

If your passages are clear then your piston is stuck. Pumping the lever like that should send a jet of fluid 2 inches above the handlebar reservoir, even with it full of fluid.

 

[Parminio]

I'm sure the hole is clean, I can spray brake clean through it. There's a pinsize hole and a toothpick size hole, and they both produce either bubbles or a movement in fluid in the reservoir...

That's out point entirely. Those bubbles are non-existent compared to what they should be. You act like one little bubble drifting up after you've pumped the lever 5 times is OK.

It's not.

So go ahead and eyeroll more.

 

[LazyLiberty]

It's more an eye roll of despair, no offense meant... I can clearly see the piston moving through the toothpick hole and the spring compressing through the clutch line hole must be the seals after all then?! Which is aggravating since I can feel it sealing, or so I think, the feel of rubber on inside bore when I pressed the inner workings back in...

 

[Fire-medic]

Did you clean the bore w/some wet-or-dry sandpaper, like 180 or 220?I tape a piece to a 3/8" long socket extension, and wrap the sandpaper around the extension, and use a cordless drill to scour the passage for the piston. Not-even a minute to do it. Rinse it thoroughly, and use fresh brake fluid to lube the seals before installing the piston, and some on the cyl wall, too.

That's why I like the reverse-bleed, I've found it to-be the quickest way with the least-expensive equipment to get a firm lever at the handlebars, clutch or front brake.

 

[02GF74]

I did! The cup seal and plunger ring are both in very good nick, that's why I'm puzzled...

Is it possible to fit the cup the wrong way round?

Also it may look good but is worn, do you have a new one to compare it with?

 

[Fire-medic]

Is it possible to fit the cup the wrong way round?

Also it may look good but is worn, do you have a new one to compare it with?

Is it possible to fit the cup the wrong way round? Yes. The middle one closest-to the lever pivot. No for the end of the metal piston one.

Q #2: Seems like you have established it has a problem.

I'll tell you my belief: front master cylinders, clutch or brakes, I usually replace 'em. No issues with messing with rebuilds, you install it, bleed it properly, and go-riding. Yes it costs money. However, I want my clutch to decouple my engine from the differential when I actuate it. I don't want it to suddenly puke brake fluid all-over the lever, and have a bike moving with no-clutch. The same principle for the brakes. When I pull the brake lever, the bike has-to STOP! No brake fluid dripping off the ball-end of the brake lever, no pulling-back the brake lever until it hits the handlebar, and no stopping-power.

As careful as I try, it seems that a % of the time, the rebuild kit doesn't work, and then you have to buy the new master cyl anyway. Might as-well buy the whole assembly and know that once properly-installed and bled, it's gonna-work. Of course, that assumes your brake line isn't collapsing internally, locking-on your brake, or developing a goiter from a delamination of the hose construction, an aneurysm of the brake system; your caliper is not corroded, no frozen pistons in it/them, and that your brake pads aren't glazed-over or too-worn to-work.

 

[Screwloose]

I had the same clutch & brake problems. For me it was as FM says.