bleeding the clutch

[91zconvert]

how do I bleed the clutch on my 86 vmax?:bang head:

 

[Traumahawk]

You can follow the line from the clutch, down to the slave cylinder there on the left side of the bike. The with be a rubber cover over the bleed nipple, and you can move it out of the way. Place a rubber hose over the nipple, running into another container, or atleast away from the bike....and paint. Squeeze the clutch lever a couple of times, until there is strong pressure built, and crack open the nipple using an 8mm wrench....I like closed (box end) myself, once no more fluid comes out, then close off (tighten) the nipple back up again. Do that until no air comes out....IE no bubbles.

Some people on here have had VERY good luck getting a syringe, and forcing fluid BACKWARDS thru the nipple up into the clutch master cylinder located on the left side of the handle bars.

Holler if you need more help, or if anything that I said wasn't clear. REMEMBER.....use DOT 3 or 4 (I use 4). and it will EAT any painted surface that it gets spilled on and left. So wipe it up, and wash it off as SOON as possible.

 

[naughtyG]

I was completely unable to bleed my clutch like I would do with brakes when I tried.

The only way that worked for me was indeed forcing the fluid back up the line with a syringe through the bleed nipple. Make sure the bleed nipple is cracked open enough, and also make sure the handlebar reservoir is open and there are plenty of rags around to catch any spill!

 

[1967vmax]

If you can remove the slave cylinder with the clutch line still attached be careful not to break the small metal line where the hose attaches remove your master cylinder cover and place rags on top of the cover to catch any fluid make sure there is some fluid in the master cylinder now force the plunger on the slave cylinder in slow so the fluid in the master doesnt go flying up everywhere this should force all the air up through the small hole in the master cylinder . You will also have to pull the mid gear cover as well. This is fastest way to get all the air out of your clutch.

 

[cmw2212]

I ended up using a vacuum bleeder on mine.

 

[alorio1]

If you have made attempts to bleed the clutch and get nothing at the slave bleeding point, you may want to take the bleed screw completely out and see if it is plugged. If the bleeder screw is open and you can blow thru it put it back in and check the master cylinder. Their is a very tiny hole in the bottom of it that can get plugged with crud and won't let the fluid into the chamber of the master that actually creates pressure to the slave. It is a very small hole and some have used a guitar string to unplug the hole. Your bike is listed as an 86 and a good candidate for these two points as mentioned to be the possible reason your clutch not bleeding out.

 

[sdt354]

The reservoirs for the clutch/brake hold very little brake fluid. It doesn't take much to run dry and have to start over. I do well on the clutch. The brakes drive me batty. I wish there were a brake fluid we could use that doesn't turn paint to liquid. My freshly blasted calipers and master look like **** after bleeding. I might PC everything next year. Brake fluid isn't kind to PC either. But if you can wipe it quick, there's a better chance of no damage.
Steve-o

 

[mistic107]

Hey guys,

I did my clutch last night with a mityvac and I was pulling more air that fluid through the line. I eventuall got it flushed but it took quite awhile. The fluid that was in it from the PO looked like chocolate milk and I was having clutch slipping issues.

After the flush the clutch seems to be holding but should I be worried about how slow it was to get fluid out of the line?

 

[one2dmax]

I am not really sure why some have so many issues bleeding them? I'll have to do another video showing the way I do the bleeding.

 

[jfeagins]

I am not really sure why some have so many issues bleeding them? I'll have to do another video showing the way I do the bleeding.

:confused2::confused2::confused2:

Me either. After doing it a couple times in my teens, it all seems pretty simple to me, and I never seem to encounter problems any more. I change brake & clutch fluid on all 5 bikes every spring. I have had a couple instances of having a mystery air bubble re-occur over the years, but have learned why and adapted to overcome. Both cases involved my not keeping the master reservoir full enough to prevent air bubbles from reintroducing themselves into the system.

I do it the old fashioned way...........gently squeeze lever (or brake pedal), open bleeder, close bleeder, release lever (or brake pedal). Repeat until clean fluid is coming out of the bleeder.

If a pesky master cylinder is not wanting to pump up to start the process, I simply loosen the banjo bolt and begin my bleeding process there instead of down at the bleeder.


DOT 5.1 brake fluid purportedly does not harm painted surfaces. I don't know that for a fact, because none of my bikes came with it installed, and since it DOES NOT MIX with any other brake fluid, I am not willing to take the necessary time to completely flush the DOT 3/4.