Bonehead bolt rounding move...

[mundmc]

So, being a *******, I used a socket set that wasn’t hex, but the kind with 12 divits in it to remove one of the top bolts from my fork tube
Did i mention i used an impact driver?



The aluminum bolt is now completely rounded.

I tried the M22 wrench in the vmax tool kit, but I had to modify it a little:

That didn’t work so great, so I tried putting the fork tube back in the yolk, and applying a little pressure

Still no bueno.
A heat gun and wd40 did not alleviate the situation.
I ordered a proper M22 hex bolt, though I am less than optimistic.

Short of going to a machinist, my options are:
1) Cut a groove and use a piece of flat plate in it to get it out (like a stripped screw)
2) Find an aluminum bolt I can weld on (i have an ac tig) and use that?

Thoughts?

 

[Fire-medic]

A cold chisel and a ball pein hammer should be able to break it free.

I assume you're going to replace the fork cap? As you said, weld some stock to it so you can use a pipe wrench or a Crescent wrench. I also have a set of Cornwell screw extractors for issues such as this. Drive it into the schrader valve hole, and turn it out.

 

[mundmc]

Thanks as always, firemedic. If the cap doesn’t cone off easy, then I’ll look i to these Cornwell extractors vs welding. I need to look up what a cold chisel is first though

 

[user 16790]

if you are sacrificing the top cap you can drill 2 holes in it and insert metal rods or even thread the holes to accept bolts, either way as long as they protrude above the fork tube you can put a lever between them and it should unscrew
ps. sometimes a socket needs to be ground down to remove the tapered edges to get a better bite on nuts without much thickness

 

[mundmc]

When you say the socket is “ground down,” I’m not sure if I understand how that is done.

The tips are greatly appreciated, and hopefully a hex socket will do the trick before I get medieval on this thing.

 

[norcalAF]

When you say the socket is “ground down,” I’m not sure if I understand how that is done.

The tips are greatly appreciated, and hopefully a hex socket will do the trick before I get medieval on this thing.

I imagine he is talking about grinding down the leading edge of a socket to remove the tapered inner surface and leave a completely square inner contact surface.

 

[Fire-medic]

I imagine he is talking about grinding down the leading edge of a socket to remove the tapered inner surface and leave a completely square inner contact surface.

Yep, just-that. Since I doubt he'll re-use the threaded cap, I'd just use an easy-out on it and get it done-with.

The cold chisel method is what I've used on those vexing brake rotor buttons which don't seem to release easily with the small-dimension allen fitting they have, since they have thread-locker. If you've never-used a cold chisel to remove a stubborn bolt, first make a cut with the cold chisel placed like the spoke of a wheel, straight-down. Once you get a 'lip,' then you can change the straight-down angle of the chisel, to one where the chisel is now at about a 45 degree angle from horizontal, with the cold chisel tip in the 'lip' and your hammer blows are to drive the fastener in a 'lefty-loosie' direction. As the fastener moves, you re-position the cold chisel to follow the 'lip' around the bolt as it loosens. At some point, you can probably hand-turn it out, even-with a messed-up set of flats on the fixture you're trying to remove.

 

[Coastal Grey]

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...AF1EAQYASABEgLSf_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=300

This is what you need a set of
I’m sure there is an American versiion
Harbour freight maybe

cheers
Peter

 

[02GF74]

6pt sockets are best for removing stubborn bolts.

It is very unlikely but we're not dealing with a left hand thread?

I have used these type of socket to remove a rounded head bolt from an exhaust, not sure if you will find one of the right size. They have a left hand spiral that cuts into the head for grip. It's like having 6 cold chisels working simultaneously.



I've looked at your original photos and see the bolt is recessed, that will make it a bit harder to use the old chisel technique.

Oh, just measured the largest socket in my set of 11 and 22mm AF should fit. This is designated as #10 = no idea if that is standard nomenclature.

 

[Redrum]

I usually TIG weld a nut on in situations like this. But aluminum adds to the difficulty. You wrench could act as a heat-sink so as not to melt everything. But getting the correct alloy aluminum nut could be a problem.

 

[MadMaxMan]

My opinion would be if it didn't come out with a 22 mm socket regardless that it was 12 point, driving a screw extractor in the small Schrader valve hole would most likely end up breaking the extractor. However i am not sure what I would do In your shoes. Sorry and good luck.

 

[Fire-medic]

My opinion would be if it didn't come out with a 22 mm socket regardless that it was 12 point, driving a screw extractor in the small Schrader valve hole would most likely end up breaking the extractor. However i am not sure what I would do In your shoes. Sorry and good luck.

That's an easy-one, drill-out the schrader valve hole to something larger, say 1/2" and use a larger screw extractor, if you're that worried about it. Unless the plug is cross-threaded in the downtube, that should come-out easily, once you can get some leverage on it. It's got a fine thread, and there doesn't need to be much torque on the fastener. Factory torque is 17 ft/lb. so not-much. The nut-grabbers (think, "an aggressive hooker") 02GF74 pictured should work too, if there's enough height, as they're designed to work with a taller-profile rounded-off nut.

 

[Screwloose]

So, being a *******, I used a socket set that wasn’t hex, but the kind with 12 divits in it to remove one of the top bolts from my fork tube



View attachment 76179
The aluminum bolt is now completely rounded.


Short of going to a machinist, my options are:
1) Cut a groove and use a piece of flat plate in it to get it out (like a stripped screw)
2) Find an aluminum bolt I can weld on (i have an ac tig) and use that?

Thoughts?

Hope you don't mind me jumping in to the conversation. This is the kind of bad luck I've been getting all my life!

You have probably missed your chance of bolting your wrench to the nut before trying to turn it, as it looks like the wrench was lifting as you were trying to turn it. I would then have hit the wrench with a hammer rather than trying to turn it as it would help to shock the nut loose. Or I would have done something similar to when I get car wheel locking bolts nut's worn or lost, weld a nut on the inside of the nut and while its all still a bit hot shock it loose. In your case you cannot use an aluminium nut and weld in the inside as the inside has no material, so use a bit of aluminium hex bar (plenty of length and you have a tig welder) and weld it around the outside of the nut. You could always re-use the nut again by filing it down to shape after cutting the hex bar off when finished.

Just a suggestion, nothing more. Hope you get there.

 

[Coastal Grey]

If you go the weld route as soon as your done welding it pour ice water on it the sudden shock from contraction may help unfortunately I think your threads are galled good luck with the fix

 

[norcalAF]

At this point I would just get another bike

 

[Vinmax]

I suggest you get the proper 22mm socket. DON'T use it yet! What you need to do is have someone with a lathe, turn it down so the open side is flat.

What I mean is have someone chuck it into the lathe and then turn down the open end so that there are no 'rounded' edges like on all sockets. This will make the socket fit completely flat on the fork nut.
Then put pressure on it while turning.

I've done this on several sockets I've used for other work and this always works out great. Regular sockets always have raised edges and rounded profiles and never sit flush all the way down on nuts. Having them turned to make them 'flat faced' works wonders.

Vinnie

 

[Screwloose]

I suggest you get the proper 22mm socket. DON'T use it yet! What you need to do is have someone with a lathe, turn it down so the open side is flat.

What I mean is have someone chuck it into the lathe and then turn down the open end so that there are no 'rounded' edges like on all sockets. This will make the socket fit completely flat on the fork nut.
Then put pressure on it while turning.

I've done this on several sockets I've used for other work and this always works out great. Regular sockets always have raised edges and rounded profiles and never sit flush all the way down on nuts. Having them turned to make them 'flat faced' works wonders.

Vinnie

Also multi-point sockets as you show above, do not have as good a contact area as hex sockets. I.E. hex sockets are superior in contact area for tight bolts.

 

[mundmc]

Everything here is tremendously helpful, and I really appreciate it. I will post updates, likely containing me breaking other things in the process.

 

[02GF74]

At this point I would just get another bike

That's the best suggestion so far.

As FM says, the bolt/cap is not done up tight and it is of a fair size, 22mm, so it does not bode well.
Aluminium expands more than steel so warming up the steel tube then spraying the nut with freezer spray may improve chances of removal. My gut feeling is you a going to have to drill out the cap.

 

[norcalAF]

That's the best suggestion so far.

As FM says, the bolt/cap is not done up tight and it is of a fair size, 22mm, so it does not bode well.
Aluminium expands more than steel so warming up the steel tube then spraying the nut with freezer spray may improve chances of removal. My gut feeling is you a going to have to drill out the cap.

Yep, just put the cap on and sell the bike to some unsuspecting rube and move on!