brain fried .. help ..

[Mush]

Hi all , new to V-max
bike is a 96 full power that stood for a couple of years .. ive read through the posts etc on here and asked another owner but this problem is just there still and i am not sure where to go with it now .
. its the old stalling / dying at the lights syndrome .. ive had the carbs off a few times now , cleaned EVERYTHING immaculately , i have new inline fuel filter and fuel lines , there seems to be no crud in the tank now or lines or pump . last time the carbs were apart i found no blockages etc , ive replaced the inlet rubbers and the bike will fire up no issues and sit all day ticking over lovely .. ride it between 2 and 5 ish miles and it starts banging , popping and dying at junctions . its almost like it drops onto 2 cylinders but rev it up and will go then higher revs you go the thing will pull like a missile .. ive checked all the measurements in the Haynes manual on the coils , leads pick up etc etc brand new battery and sitting around 13. 6 - 8 v ..
can anyone please please help before i let my lighter accidentally fall under it while lit !
the guy who owned it and a chap that was borrowing it both say it ran perfect before it was parked up ... an accident on a different bike meant it couldn't be ridden which is why it was parked up ..
I know its an age old question but jeeees what a PIA ..
Thanks in advance
Ta

 

[Fire-medic]

Contact Sean Morley, and ask for the 'electrical component kit.' Substitute the ignition box for the one in the kit, and see if that doesn't solve your problem. [email protected]

I suppose that each time you disassembled and remounted the carbs, you did a full carburetor synchronization, and air bleed screw adjustment?

You removed the jet blocks, and removed two jets from each, and you can see-through the brass jets? Light-showing?

The gas tank is not rusty, at-all?

 

[gentsvmax]

I strongly suggest keeping accurate notes on everything you change,adjustments made, if any, while chasing the cause of the problem, so you can go back and undo the changes made along the way that weren't the culprit.

 

[Radioguylogs]

Maybe recheck the throttle cables and idle speed screw and make sure those items are set up correctly? I wondered if the carbs shafts weren't resting on the idle speed screw. Then you ride it a while and it sits down on the screw. JAT

 

[Mush]

Contact Sean Morley, and ask for the 'electrical component kit.' Substitute the ignition box for the one in the kit, and see if that doesn't solve your problem. [email protected]

I suppose that each time you disassembled and remounted the carbs, you did a full carburetor synchronization, and air bleed screw adjustment?

You removed the jet blocks, and removed two jets from each, and you can see-through the brass jets? Light-showing?

The gas tank is not rusty, at-all?

Everything is clear , no crud in fuel or filter . new filter and lines , jets all see light through them , new gaskets , orings , etc etc , pilot screws all adjusted . made notes of positions of everything as taking apart and putting back together , tried different settings ie pilot screw turns etc . pick up = 105 ohms . primary resistance = 2.8 ohms , secondary resistance ( coils no leads ) = 12 k-ohms , leads and caps 10 k-ohms , new battery ignition OFF =12.7 v .. Running = 13.3 v then as upping revs up to and greater than 5000 rpm = 13.6 - 13.8 v oh and checked all the connections = no corrosion , earthing points and termination points all good and strong ..
starts sweet , runs sweet then after a few miles turns crappy and spits , farts coughs and dies , rev it hard and it is ok but feather it and its all over the place or nothing ..
properly doing my head in .. surely yamaha didnt make a motor that has to be absolutley prestine to run properly .. after all the hype ive heard over the years of 'v-max ' im not enjoying this experience 1 bit and im pretty sure once its sorted it will be going up for sale because i really cant be messing about with a bike that is basically a big girl . ..

 

[Fire-medic]

Have you contacted [email protected] for the electrical supply kit? It sounds like an engine CDI box is developing an open circuit for the ignition. As the manuals say, "replace with one of known good operating condition."

Sean's motto was stolen by Liberty Mutual Insurance, he should sue! "Only pay for-what you need!" That's it. Contact him about the kit.

 

[Mush]

Have you contacted [email protected] for the electrical supply kit? It sounds like an engine CDI box is developing an open circuit for the ignition. As the manuals say, "replace with one of known good operating condition."

Sean's motto was stolen by Liberty Mutual Insurance, he should sue! "Only pay for-what you need!" That's it. Contact him about the kit.

where are these located as its just coming up with a google thingy , no website etc .. cheers

 

[Fire-medic]

https://www.morleysmuscle.com/vmax.html

https://www.facebook.com/Morleys-Muscle-282702488678/

The AOL address is his email

Where are you, somewhere in the British Empire, Australia, NZ, or Ireland?

 

[Mush]

https://www.morleysmuscle.com/vmax.html

https://www.facebook.com/Morleys-Muscle-282702488678/

The AOL address is his email

Where are you, somewhere in the British Empire, Australia, NZ, or Ireland?

GB .

 

[dannymax]

Have the carb cleanings made any difference at all with the running issue?

 

[Mush]

Have the carb cleanings made any difference at all with the running issue?

Hi Danny ,
initially yes , before i pulled the carbs the bike was really struggling to run at low speed / junctions etc . after the strip , clean and reset the bike was better but only id say for another couple of miles run than previous . I've replaced the plugs , leads , caps , had the multimeter on coils , pick up coil etc etc etc and all fall within the required values in the manual .
Last night i put a camera into fuel tank and cant see and rust or crud in there , the filter (new) is spotless . pumped fuel through the pump and that was clean aswell .
Fired up perfect as it has done and sits ticking over no issues , after possibly 30 seconds to a minute can turn choke fully off . it starts playing up when actually riding , possibly after around 5 miles , temp gauge isn't overly hot , fan hasn't kicked in . when it is spluttering , coughing and dying i give it some revs and it appears to clear then it will accelerate perfect but as soon as i back off it then returns to spluttering and dying . if i stop and feather the throttle down to tick over it will sit quite happy ticking over but then need a bit of feathering to get off the line again .
when i get home from work tonight i will have another look at it again
If i could trust it not conking out and leaving me stuck id run it to work and back but its a long push mostly up and down hills so i dont fancy that

 

[dannymax]

It sounds like you missed something in the cleaning. There's a lot more to it than most realize.

 

[Mush]

It sounds like you missed something in the cleaning. There's a lot more to it than most realize.

any tip then ? i was meticulous with them .. if i strip them again when i get home later where am i looking in the light of you thinking it is something ive missed ?
cheers bud

 

[2017VMax]

Definitely sounds starved of fuel. I don't have a 1rst gen, but I've cleaned plenty of carbs. Very carefully pull every screw and pin. Turn screws in and count the turns exactly. Then remove. Spray carb cleaner down the holes both ways. Clean the crap out of everything. Make sure you don't miss under the bowl. And make sure everything before the carb is clean. You could introduce more crap into the carb otherwise. If you have to install a temp fuel filter right before the carb. And make sure it's not a fuel pump issue. It could work at first then putter out after a few.

 

[dannymax]

any tip then ? i was meticulous with them .. if i strip them again when i get home later where am i looking in the light of you thinking it is something ive missed ?
cheers bud

pfj's

 

[John Blackwell]

Hi Danny ,
initially yes , before i pulled the carbs the bike was really struggling to run at low speed / junctions etc . after the strip , clean and reset the bike was better but only id say for another couple of miles run than previous . I've replaced the plugs , leads , caps , had the multimeter on coils , pick up coil etc etc etc and all fall within the required values in the manual .
Last night i put a camera into fuel tank and cant see and rust or crud in there , the filter (new) is spotless . pumped fuel through the pump and that was clean aswell .
Fired up perfect as it has done and sits ticking over no issues , after possibly 30 seconds to a minute can turn choke fully off . it starts playing up when actually riding , possibly after around 5 miles , temp gauge isn't overly hot , fan hasn't kicked in . when it is spluttering , coughing and dying i give it some revs and it appears to clear then it will accelerate perfect but as soon as i back off it then returns to spluttering and dying . if i stop and feather the throttle down to tick over it will sit quite happy ticking over but then need a bit of feathering to get off the line again .
when i get home from work tonight i will have another look at it again
If i could trust it not conking out and leaving me stuck id run it to work and back but its a long push mostly up and down hills so i dont fancy that

Check resistance in your spark plug wires, and caps . I had a similar problem. Mine started to stubble around 3000 to 3500. It would only do it when I rode it about 3 to 5 miles. When it got warmed up And would get worse the longer I rode it.
Did you check your air valves?
If you can, ride around close to home. Let it warm up. And before you pull back in hold it at 3250 rpm. Using your kill switch shut it off. But DO NOT let off the throttle. Coast in, let it cool down for about 20 minutes. Then pull your plugs. See if you have one going Rich or Lean.

 

[2017VMax]

I agree with John. I've had issues with spark plugs on my dirt bikes many times. I'd pull the plug and get plenty of spark. The bike wouldn't start or run properly. Put in new plugs am BAM... fired right up. I now change the plugs every year just to avoid it. Not that I suggest that. It's just what I do. Beyond carb cleaning, having a good spark is just as important.

P S.
I used to cover the air filter port with a cloth to choke the carb. If it would run better choked, I knew I had carb issue not getting gas. Doing that creates a powerful suction, forcing more gas into the carb.

 

[MadMaxMan]

Everything is clear , no crud in fuel or filter . new filter and lines , jets all see light through them , new gaskets , orings , etc etc , pilot screws all adjusted . made notes of positions of everything as taking apart and putting back together , tried different settings ie pilot screw turns etc . pick up = 105 ohms . primary resistance = 2.8 ohms , secondary resistance ( coils no leads ) = 12 k-ohms , leads and caps 10 k-ohms , new battery ignition OFF =12.7 v .. Running = 13.3 v then as upping revs up to and greater than 5000 rpm = 13.6 - 13.8 v oh and checked all the connections = no corrosion , earthing points and termination points all good and strong ..
starts sweet , runs sweet then after a few miles turns crappy and spits , farts coughs and dies , rev it hard and it is ok but feather it and its all over the place or nothing ..
properly doing my head in .. surely yamaha didnt make a motor that has to be absolutley prestine to run properly .. after all the hype ive heard over the years of 'v-max ' im not enjoying this experience 1 bit and im pretty sure once its sorted it will be going up for sale because i really cant be messing about with a bike that is basically a big girl . ..

You say you see light through the jets. Crappy gas will slowly close the diameter. If you have it torn down already, new jets are cheap assurance. I have blown sleds up by just looking. But then I have them leaned out to a exhaust temperature gauge to run as lean as possible without blowing it up until jets are just a tad to small.

 

[Mush]

Check resistance in your spark plug wires, and caps . I had a similar problem. Mine started to stubble around 3000 to 3500. It would only do it when I rode it about 3 to 5 miles. When it got warmed up And would get worse the longer I rode it.
Did you check your air valves?
If you can, ride around close to home. Let it warm up. And before you pull back in hold it at 3250 rpm. Using your kill switch shut it off. But DO NOT let off the throttle. Coast in, let it cool down for about 20 minutes. Then pull your plugs. See if you have one going Rich or Lean.

new plugs , leads and caps .checked and re-checked then checked again , the mutimeter must be wondering whats going on its had so much use in the last 2 weeks have to admit im totally fed up of this bike ... my Harley is so much easier .. haha

 

[Zeus36]

I agree with 2017VMzx, it sounds like starved fuel. Did you check or set the carb floats levels?