Brake upgrade ultimate stopping power

[sdt354]

After watching me struggle my Bro bought me the best upgrade to my old 89, so far. The early Vmax brakes
are compromised at best. Another Sean Morley kit has extended my riding time. Bigger rotors and adaption of 6
pot calipers gave me true stopping power, with lots of feedback and true one finger activation. Those that know me well
know one finger is all I've got on the front brake lever. Next for me is to ditch the progressive springs for steady rates. Now
The mushy beginning of the Progressives is more pronounced when braking hard. Steve-o

 

[wilks]

I know it’s probably an optical illusion but in that pic looks like the pistons aren’t even aligned with the rotors.

Great addition tho

 

[SoakerMax9]

I know it’s probably an optical illusion but in that pic looks like the pistons aren’t even aligned with the rotors.

Great addition tho

Good catch. I copied that picture into photoshop and zoomed in, I think you're right that they are not aligned. They may need an adapter otherwise will get uneven ware, but on the good side the stopping power will be twice as good. I have these same Tokico calipers and they are the best Vmax upgrade IMO.

 

[Fire-medic]

I suspect you're complaining about what is called 'parallax error.' In person, the view probably shows the alignment to be for full pad engagement. After all, that's the purpose of the mounting brackets Sean provides.

Tokico and Sumitomo are the two 6-piston (3 pistons, opposed) calipers used as replacement upgrades on the VMax Gen. 1, std354 has the OEM early forks, 40 mm downtubes & sliders. They were used 1985-1992; 43 mm downtubes & sliders were used from 1993-2007. The early '85-'92 brakes are (I think) 282 mm rotors, and single opposed pistons. The 1993-'07 rotors are 298 mm and the brakes are four pistons (two pair opposed) per caliper.

Race-Tech offers constant rate springs based upon your weight and the type of riding you do. They also sell Gold Valve cartridge emulators, which replace the old-style damper rods with a wave-washer stack, on-top of the damping rods. That turns the old damper rods into mere spacers.

I have the Race-Tech constant rate springs, RICOR cartridge emulators, and I have a '92 bike. Just using the 1993+ front end, stock, as I changed-to, made a significant improvement in handling, and be sure to add air in the fork schrader valves. The forks work for me much-better with air, I use ~12 psi. On initial hard braking the difference between air and no air, in the amount of front-end dive proves the worth of using air. I know the Progressive Suspension instructions say, "no air required."

Just going from the 40 mm downtubes/sliders to the 43 mm ones, adds something like 15% increase in stiffness, and for me, it was very noticeable after the switch. Add-in the Race-Tech constant-rate springs, and the Race-Tech Gold Valves (or the RICOR's) and you get good results for a moderate expenditure.

Using USD forks like from an early R1 Yamaha, compels the use of 'slugs' to increase the length of the downtubes to work with the dimensions of the front fork of the VMax, or 'gull-wing' triple trees to adapt the USD forks to a VMax frame.

 

[MaxMidnight]

be sure to add air in the fork schrader valves. The forks work for me much-better with air, I use ~12 psi. On initial hard braking the difference between air and no air, in the amount of front-end dive proves the worth of using air. I know the Progressive Suspension instructions say, "no air required."

Racetech make no comment regarding adding air but do make a point of setting the static sag which, from personal experience, does transform how the set-up performs.
I've never added air to my forks as I'm happy with how they perform but it is one of those 'tweaks' that is easily undoable.
As the air is acting as a spring I would have thought that if you have fitted the correct weight it wouldn't be necessary?
Set the sag first and see how you like the feel, add air in increments will let assess if it makes any improvement.

 

[one2dmax]

The 320mm and 6 piston Busa calipers work amazingly well. Normally we'd only use a single rotor and caliper to reduce both reciprocating and unsprung masses and still have as good a braking power as the 298mm version. This dual 320 is the strongest we can make with available parts and is more then up to the task. Here's a better view of the expected wear pattern you will see with this setup. Though maybe not 100% perfect there is more then enough pad engagement. We tested these for over a year before we started letting them out to our customers.

 

[Sabbra]

I need to do something about mine...it is so bad...

 

[apsolus]

wow, that is so cool. my bikes brakes feel more like wood blocks hitting the rotor. i have noticed if you get em hot on track the brakes work much better, but anyway. my bikes an 2002 with the better front end . these calipers look a lot like the ones on my 88 fzr 1000. the hot ticket with those was the blue dots off the later model r6's etc i like the look of those 6 pots though qnd bigger r4otors??

 

[MaxMidnight]

wow, that is so cool. my bikes brakes feel more like wood blocks hitting the rotor.

That would suggest that the lever ratio (m/c piston area to caliper piston area) to too low. Suggest a m/c with a smaller diameter piston will help.