Cam Bearing Cap =(

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RagingMain

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I had one of my bolts from my cam sprocket decide he didnt want to play any more and wanted to take up residence in my sump.
Sean being the upstanding guy he is sent me out some new bolts and gaskets to go with.
Had to take the intake cam bearing cap off to get at the bolt and this is what I found. Not cool. Looks like it was what was holding everything together. If I had gone much further I am sure this would have failed and things would have been much worse!!!
I went back and looked at all the pics I took of the engine when I was replacing the cams and those cracks werent there before. Glad I caught this now.
Also a couple of my bolts just spin now. Not sure if the increased stress caused them to pop. I cant pull them straight out, there is still some resistance but they just spin and spin. Any ideas of how to fix it with out pulling the engine, again.?
Sean if you read this I am going to need an I2 for the rear bank if you have any extra, if not I will just order one. Guess I am not going to bike night Thursday :bang head::damn angry::bang head::damn angry:
Cheers
 

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thas some bad arse cracks... I don't even think JBweld would help ya there. U need some new parts, and they need reinforced. Ouch.
 
Wonder if was overtightened in the first place to be busting bolts and crushing caps and stripping threads?
If the bolts spinning round and round, then it's stripped either the bolt or worse the female, which gets ugly as in heli-coils, stud extractors or spark eroding the bolts out.
Ouch, sorry.
 
T-mobile Contract ended on the 8th?
Man that is such Bullshit.:bang head:








Just kiddin'. Hoping the best outcome for ya man.
 
I'd need to send you a few since they are line bored from the factory and not normally interchangeable. Usually you can come up with one close enough by trying a few of them (it may not even be a I2 you end up with).

The other option is to get your cap welded up. The hole doesn't have to be round where the bolt passes through as much as it needs to be straight to transfer the clamping pressure. Also, you have the other caps helping the load out and even the cradle on the head side.

You may need to helicoil those bolts too.


Sean
 
Off topic here man but... You need a second bike if you're going to keep on this bike like this.

Not being a smart ass... It's just a fact. The harder you push things the more they break.

Hope you get her sorted.
 
Off topic here man but... You need a second bike if you're going to keep on this bike like this.

Not being a smart ass... It's just a fact. The harder you push things the more they break.

Hope you get her sorted.

I am with you 100% on this. Actually been looking around.
Funny thing is I dont really ride this bike hard, I just ride A LOT.
 
I'd need to send you a few since they are line bored from the factory and not normally interchangeable. Usually you can come up with one close enough by trying a few of them (it may not even be a I2 you end up with).

The other option is to get your cap welded up. The hole doesn't have to be round where the bolt passes through as much as it needs to be straight to transfer the clamping pressure. Also, you have the other caps helping the load out and even the cradle on the head side.

You may need to helicoil those bolts too.


Sean

Sean wouldnt helicoil of those bolt require removing the head?
Before you send anything out let me see about getting this one welded up.

Here are some pics of the bearing surface
 

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Sean wouldnt helicoil of those bolt require removing the head?
Before you send anything out let me see about getting this one welded up.

Here are some pics of the bearing surface


I'll start off by saying that my comp screen at work is not the brightest(literally! Pun intended!). With that said, it "looks" to me like there is some significant wear there. Might need to replace it anyway. Again, i'm having a hard time seeing it here at work, so someone else can chime in with what they are seeing.
You might can Heli-coil the head with it in the bike, BUT i would not reccomend it. Needs to be very straight when being drilled. Also metal chips/filings can get where you DON'T want them! I know you don't wanna hear it(i would'nt either!), but it would be the wisest course to pull the head. Just my opinnion
 
I'll start off by saying that my comp screen at work is not the brightest(literally! Pun intended!). With that said, it "looks" to me like there is some significant wear there. Might need to replace it anyway. Again, i'm having a hard time seeing it here at work, so someone else can chime in with what they are seeing.
You might can Heli-coil the head with it in the bike, BUT i would not reccomend it. Needs to be very straight when being drilled. Also metal chips/filings can get where you DON'T want them! I know you don't wanna hear it(i would'nt either!), but it would be the wisest course to pull the head. Just my opinnion

As far as the cap goes I am sending it back to Sean and he is going to evaluate for me. I am not sure if that is an oil galley or some wear.

And for the lose bolts I will do it the right way. I was always taught if you are going to take the time to do something do it right.
 
I didn't mean you beat on it... Just that you're asking it to do things Yamaha didn't design for it to do. I realize MANY do it but reliability tends to drop when you mess with stuff. Trust me I know... I'm fighting with a F'd up suspension on my G8 right now. That's what I get for trying to improve it... lol

Chris
 
Oil does flow through that point in the cap, but why did it discolor it the way it did? Yes, definitely pull the head like you said. This would require a lot more work but as the bike is built you could even have someone fill the holes and have them re-drilled and tapped to proper size as the strength would be returned to stock is. Or, just get another set of heads, usually cheap one ebay(just not ported). Just a thought. Good luck, Roy
 
There is no real reason why he can't reuse his head. He has enough material in the head to even take it out one size over I think (could even maybe size it up to standard which might be 1/2 size).

It can be done by using grease to capture the shavings. The cap does have oil but not pressurized if I remember right. There is also not a huge amount of pressure on just the one cap. It's spread out over all 4 caps which if you ran without one cap eventually the cam would crack from the small amount of flex that would be there.

Sean
 
I didn't mean you beat on it... Just that you're asking it to do things Yamaha didn't design for it to do. I realize MANY do it but reliability tends to drop when you mess with stuff. Trust me I know... I'm fighting with a F'd up suspension on my G8 right now. That's what I get for trying to improve it... lol

Chris

Oh I know, the issue before this was a trans issue and that was definately a faulty part, nothing Sean or I did. Now this cam cap is definately my issue. Oh well, lets get it back together and see how long she holds together this time
 
Hey Fargo,
I`m reallllllly sorry to hear that bro,:confused2:
I guess that the day that we don`t have to do something to our bikes anymore is when we bury them with us LOL.:bang head::bang head::bang head:
It seems funny but too scary close to the truth.
If you need my help I`m here for ya` bro.
take care,
<<Dave>>:punk:
 
It has been awhile since I got it fixed and I thought I would share how it worked out

The hole that the bolt sits in is deeper than where the bolt ends up when it is snugged against the cam cap and it does not go all the way through the head. I took a tap and cleaned up the threads and went and got a 5mm longer bolt, original length is 40mm. Cleaned up the hole and ran it down in there and it worked. I got the 7 ft/lbs or 84 in/lbs required by mother Yamaha.

Since I have put the bigger cams in I have been chasing, once again, the sweet spot on the tuning. I think I freakin found it!!!!!!!!!:eusa_dance::eusa_dance::eusa_dance::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:
I will post in the carb section about the results.
Cheers
 

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