Can anyone tell me if this is right

[randu]

This is embarrassing but I took tank out ( tank and filter full of rust), de-rusted,degreased, metal-prepped and sealed. Waited appropriate time. Filled w gas. Bike won’t start. ( ran before project). I neglected to note proper fuel line connections before pulling. Do I have this backwards?- I can see fuel in brand new filter.

 

[Fire-medic]

Looks OK to me.

Tube from gas tank top, turns 180 degrees, attaches to one end of the gas filter, and the other side of the gas filter goes to the carburetor manifold (that would be, the gasoline delivery manifold).

 

[randu]

Looks OK to me.

Tube from gas tank top, turns 180 degrees, attaches to one end of the gas filter, and the other side of the gas filter goes to the carburetor manifold (that would be, the gasoline delivery manifold).

...and after a few cranking attempts the fuel pump would get the system rolling again right? i used the POR15 cleaning/sealing system and im worried the sealer clogged something?-but i kinda assumed that it wouldnt be a useable product if it did that. dying to ride!

 

[MaxMidnight]

Can we assume that the fuel pump runs when you turn on the ignition?
If not there is your problem.

If yes do you have fuel going into the float chambers - loosen one of the float chamber drain screws to see if anything comes out.

If yes then I would suspect an electrical issue rather than fuel.

If no then the sealer has probably got somewhere is shouldn't and that is what you will have to investigate.

One other thought which I'm not sure if it is relevant, did you remove the fuel level sensor before adding the sealer?

 

[RempageR1]

Do you hear the pump when you turn on the ignition. Because I can think of a few scenarios:
- No click at all: Check the pump, if the bike has been turned off for a few hours, you should at least hear one click.
- Some clicks: Seems normal and the fuel gets from the fuel tank to the carbs
- A lot of clicks that just stop after 10 seconds: No fuel can be picked up, and you have clogged something. Please turn the bike off an on again to see if it again provides the clicking sound. Then you definitely have an issue with fuel pick up.

You could disconnect the hose from the fuel filter and blow into the fuel tank. You should hear the air bubbles come up into the tank. If you cannot blow any air, the fuel line is clogged....

 

[dannymax]

Is your tip-over valve functioning properly?

 

[02GF74]

Check fuel is flowing through the filter - undo the hose at the filter that goes to the carbs and turn on the ignition.

Incidentally I have found from experience that the type of hose clamp, with slots in the metal, you are using are very ****; they can undo then tightened.

These type of clamps are better, from left to right: jubilee clip, hose clamp and other hose clamp (these have a special name that eludes me) - nothing to do with your starting issue.

 

[Fire-medic]

Check fuel is flowing through the filter - undo the hose at the filter that goes to the carbs and turn on the ignition.

Incidentally I have found from experience that the type of hose clamp, with slots in the metal, you are using are very ****; they can undo then tightened.

These type of clamps are better, from left to right: jubilee clip, hose clamp and other hose clamp (these have a special name that eludes me) - nothing to do with your starting issue.

View attachment 75514

I am not-denying your personal experience with the slotted SS clamps.

I've used those slotted clamps for probably 50 years on all-sorts of gas-powered engines, and I've never had one back-out. The knock-against that type is that they can shred the rubber jacket from being over-tightened, that's why there are the ones which have the raised 'threads' which are not-through the metal band. Upon tightening, these are far-less likely to deface the hose's rubber jacket.



The middle ones are what I prefer, they're often referred-to as 'fuel-injection' clamps.

The ones on the right are simple spring-steel clamps, and in a confined-space, they can be difficult to install/loosen. In that circumstance, some of those angled needle-nose pliers, of varying angles and lengths may greatly-reduce your use of profanity as you attempt to use these spring clamps. I also use a wide-face nose/jaws pair of pliers to more-easily open the spring-steel clamps.

 

[randu]

Is your tip-over valve functioning properly?

Can you tell me where that is?

Do you hear the pump when you turn on the ignition. Because I can think of a few scenarios:
- No click at all: Check the pump, if the bike has been turned off for a few hours, you should at least hear one click.
- Some clicks: Seems normal and the fuel gets from the fuel tank to the carbs
- A lot of clicks that just stop after 10 seconds: No fuel can be picked up, and you have clogged something. Please turn the bike off an on again to see if it again provides the clicking sound. Then you definitely have an issue with fuel pick up.

You could disconnect the hose from the fuel filter and blow into the fuel tank. You should hear the air bubbles come up into the tank. If you cannot blow any air, the fuel line is clogged....

thank you so much and I’m gonna try all this today. Question-the vboost also makes clicking type noises when key is turned on correct. Is there a noticeable difference to the fuel pump noise? Thanks again

 

[randu]

Can we assume that the fuel pump runs when you turn on the ignition?
If not there is your problem.

If yes do you have fuel going into the float chambers - loosen one of the float chamber drain screws to see if anything comes out.

If yes then I would suspect an electrical issue rather than fuel.

If no then the sealer has probably got somewhere is shouldn't and that is what you will have to investigate.

One other thought which I'm not sure if it is relevant, did you remove the fuel level sensor before adding the sealer?

Thank you-I though of the fuel level sensor too late. Should be a fairly easy fix I think?- didn’t think that would affect bikes ability to pull fuel? Gonna try all the other stuff today

 

[MaxMidnight]

I agree but any port....

Have you tries with it switched to 'Reserve'?

 

[randu]

I agree but any port....

Have you tries with it switched to 'Reserve'?

Good thought! Will try that today. The fuel level sensor is just a :drain-pull-replace deal eh?

 

[randu]

Good thought! Will try that today. The fuel level sensor is just a :drain-pull-replace deal eh?

Dumb question-could the direction of new fuel filter affect anything?- and is “in” supposed to be facing gas cap or carburetors?

 

[02GF74]

Fuel filter would have an arrow to show direction, otherwise fitted so fuel flows towards the metal ring, see below.

From your photo, it looks correct.
I seem to remember there is a large rubber grommet attached to the frame into which the filter pushes in and it can only be fitted one way.

I was wondering if it matters a d unless there is a valve inside, and this would be no more complex than a flap valve, it shouldn't matter.
But as I posted earlier, undo the hose from the filter to chew k flow.

 

[Fire-medic]

Dumb question-could the direction of new fuel filter affect anything?- and is “in” supposed to be facing gas cap or carburetors?

"In' is the supply of gas, so that should face the gas tank/cap. 'Out' should face the carb fuel line. I really don't think it makes a lot of difference, one way or another it's going to be filtered.

I suspect there are some filters somewhere that does matter, but the simple media screen in this type of gas filtration device isn't going to interrupt anything, even-if it was installed incorrectly. I've never-seen a 1-way flapper valve in a Yamaha motorcycle-VMax OEM gas filter nor in the similarly-sized universal filters sold in auto parts stores.

Yes, the reserve switch in-tank electrical sender is a drain/remove/replace item. It would be a good idea to have a replacement o-ring on-hand before you do that. 1985-'07 all the same.
2006 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12V) Fuel Tank | Ron Ayers


Gasket, Sender Unit

42X-85753-00-00

Retail Price: $10.49

Your Price: $6.56

 

[02GF74]

Yeah, so why have a direction arrow?

Here is my thoughts. The filter is designed so the fuel flows into the outside of the filter element first. This gives a slightly larger area to catch debris and also allows for visual inspection as the debris is on the outside surface of the filter element.

 

[Fire-medic]

Yeah, so why have a direction arrow?

Here is my thoughts. The filter is designed so the fuel flows into the outside of the filter element first. This gives a slightly larger area to catch debris and also allows for visual inspection as the debris is on the outside surface of the filter element.

Sure, that makes sense. However, putting it in 'backwards' is not going to prevent your engine from operation. I'm not advocating anyone do it backwards, but someone not paying attention to the direction of the arrow isn't gonna have a dead bike.

 

[randu]

Boom!- she fired up-thank y’all so much for the assists, hope I can return the help some time. Now to see if she runs any better. If it ever stops raining!

 

[02GF74]

So what was it?

It won't stop raining said my neighbour Noah.

 

[dannymax]

Can you tell me where that is?

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