Cannot get flywheel off 85 Vmax

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Ya I need to get a new torch head, lent mine to neighbor he lost it. Got plenty of propane, butane and oxygen tanks so I am thinking it will come off as soon as I get new bolts and put some heat on. I am sure it won't be the first problem I face during this rebuild.
 
I take it you did try going back and forwards on the nut? Acetone can help release Loctite (if it has been applied). My experience was with a Mazda engine Crank pulley bolt that was specc'd as 175nm and my 200nm electric impact gun couldn't release it. I put a pipe over my 600mm breaker for extra leverage and when it finally moved (with ALL my weight on it) I moved it back and forth to release...
 
Update! Flywheel removed. Thanks all for advice especially about heat and stronger bolts. I hot a ton of washers on there to. Heated it with butane and the first wack it popped right off. Tha ks all!
 

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Next time try some nuts instead of a stack of washers. They don't need to be threaded on, just stacked up to give you the length you're wanting, so they can be larger in diameter than the bolts they're used-upon.
 
Update! Flywheel removed. Thanks all for advice especially about heat and stronger bolts. I hot a ton of washers on there to. Heated it with butane and the first wack it popped right off. Tha ks all!
How many pieces was the starter clutch in?
 
It was all zip tied together for removal so didn't fall apart. I just snipped of the ties before I took the pic.
 
I believe all together there should be 13 pieces. Gear2, Gear3, Shaft2, Gear Idler 1, Shaft1, Gear idler2, Starter Clutch Outer Assembly, Compression Spring, compression spring cap, dowel, bolt ans washer plate.
 
Hello,
I am also struggling for one day now to pull the flywheel.
Bought the puller from exactrep in England but it damaged the internal thread of the crankshaft. Luckily i could repair it with new thread. I told exactrep it but the told me that it was the mis use of the tool. I told them that if the center pulley bolt from the puller was not too long, it never could damaged the internal thread. So i shortened it for 5 mm. But still the flywheel won't come off. I used a "devil" pneumatic tool with about 850 nm. But not one mm. I can borrow from a shop a expensive external pulley and i am gonna try that.
How hard can i hit the central puller bolt with a hammer?
Medium hard or really really hard? Won't it damage the bearings inside or the crankshaft?
Greetings Robby
 

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From what you have written am I correct in thinking that you removed the flywheel retaining bolt?
If that is correct then you need to replace it but leave it out several turns i.e. there is some space under the bolt head.
The puller centre bolt will now act on the bolt and when you hit it the force won't be acting directly onto the end of the crank.
Try a couple of good hits and if the flywheel doesn't release tighten the centre bolt some more and try again.

If it still won't budge then note the comments in posts 2 & 7. Throw away what looks like long cap head screws and follow the recommendations in #7

The flywheel doesn't need to move far to come off the taper so check after you have hit the puller.
 
Max Midnight relishes the challenge of a recalcitrant flywheel. If you follow his directions and guidance, it will be vanquished!
 
Thx a lot for your comments. I tried it with the centerbolt a little bit out with the external puller. 3 mm out.
I tried it with a intern puller with three short bolts in the flywheel and the central flywheelpuller bolt directly in to the crancshaft. I tried it with a extern puller from the outside. What i did not try is with the the external puller and the central bolt in it and not a little bit out. I think youre right that the force of the hammer will not go 100 procent through to the flywheel with the centerbolt slightly out.
How hard can ik hit it? I hit it several times.Thanks a lot for your comments.
 
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