cant change gear

[abalus]

yes mine is newer and did some reading on this problem. if problem was with segment it would be hard to change some gears in my case i can change gears when motorcycle isnt cold. so still hope my problems will be solved after i change all plates and spring while my brake fluid is changed. i hope i get all parts next week and will try to assemble, change oil filters etc. then comes the fun part - starting it

 

[blaxmax]

Yes abalus, I think the PO was just hard on your clutch and changing the clutch plates will probably be best. If you have a piece of flat glass check the metal plates for warpage.

 

[abalus]

ordered metal plates too so will be changing them and new spring ofcourse

 

[abalus]

so the story continues finally got new plates changed them all havent putt the cover on because wanted to try if clutch works. tried to push leaver but it so hard that i cant push it.
so tried to bleed in hopes it will work as soon as i opened slave cylinder bleeding valve the pressure dropped. after couple pushes it got hard again that i could not push no more. any ideas what could be wrong?

 

[Traumahawk]

When you open up the Master cylinder, when you look down, you will see 2 holes. 1 is bigger and has a check valve in it. Your after the other hole. It is very small. Sometimes it will get clogged up, and not allow fluid to reach the MC, so pressure will build up, and eventually the clutch will slip going down the road....etc. I wonder if that return hole is clogged, allowing pressure to build up?

To clean it out, it will take a small wire (someone once said an "E" sized guitar string), and just run it into the whole. Sediment can clog it up.

 

[blaxmax]

so the story continues finally got new plates changed them all havent putt the cover on because wanted to try if clutch works. tried to push leaver but it so hard that i cant push it.
so tried to bleed in hopes it will work as soon as i opened slave cylinder bleeding valve the pressure dropped. after couple pushes it got hard again that i could not push no more. any ideas what could be wrong?

abulus, make sure you have #20 INSIDE of #17 on this photo- if you don't the clutch lever will be stiff. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1986/V-MAX 1200 - VMX12S/CLUTCH/parts.html

 

[abalus]

Its inside. I pushed couple times before asembling couple days ago everything was fine then drained oil aand moved it to another place and assembled clutch. Will try to clean master cylinder. Btw the clutch even when bleeded and i have the ability to push leaver doesnt move assembled plates i dont see any movement and yes i did assemble all plates in order aligned didnt miss any part even the dumb guitar string wich took me an hour to put in place

 

[abalus]

Ckecked the master cylinder its good. Opened the bleeder did some leaver work the fluid flows great witch presure to slave cylinder. But as soon as i close the bleeder it gets stiff and the rod doesnt seem to move o i gues the problem is in there. Any ideas what have i missed?

 

[abalus]

found problem. looks like EBC kit included extra clutch plate:lol_hitting:
so now clutch work fine. i didnt put cover on will be doing it on weekend and i hope everything will be fine :eusa_dance:

 

[blaxmax]

Good to hear.

 

[Traumahawk]

found problem. looks like EBC kit included extra clutch plate:lol_hitting:
so now clutch work fine. i didnt put cover on will be doing it on weekend and i hope everything will be fine :eusa_dance:

Glad that it was something relatively simple.

 

[abalus]

it works. assembled everything today and got a spin!! clutch works great every single gear switched perfect. max is alive again still need to replace old battery and engine leans forward because mountings are trashed but the biggest problem is gone. so the problem was that clutch and friction discs where trashed

 

[Fire-medic]

I think you should be very careful about operating the bike like that, your driveline could have increased wear, and possibly cause you some expensive repairs if you don't install good mounts. If you decide to use solid mounts, be prepared for increased high-frequency vibrations in the handlebars and footpegs, which may make it very uncomfortable for rides of any duration. The Venture had soild mounts, I believe, and you can buy aftermarket ones too. Proponents of them say it sharpens the handling a bit. I'd stay w/the rubber ones and get a frame brace pair if you want additional stiffness in the chassis.

it works. assembled everything today and got a spin!! clutch works great every single gear switched perfect. max is alive again still need to replace old battery and engine leans forward because mountings are trashed but the biggest problem is gone. so the problem was that clutch and friction discs where trashed

 

[abalus]

I think you should be very careful about operating the bike like that, your driveline could have increased wear, and possibly cause you some expensive repairs if you don't install good mounts. If you decide to use solid mounts, be prepared for increased high-frequency vibrations in the handlebars and footpegs, which may make it very uncomfortable for rides of any duration. The Venture had soild mounts, I believe, and you can buy aftermarket ones too. Proponents of them say it sharpens the handling a bit. I'd stay w/the rubber ones and get a frame brace pair if you want additional stiffness in the chassis.

yes thats next im fixing as soon as possible but i wont mount solid ones because i got through forum and found that it really increses vibration that is not worth the better handling