carb job...not as scary as it seems

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RaWarrior

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Some of you may have heard me previously complaining about my bike's tendency to hesitate under steady throttle on the highway, a problem that pretty randomly comes and goes. Feels like one cylinder is dropping in and out.
After a "spirited" romp the other day, it suddenly got a lot worse. Now it was all the time, and at low speeds too. 1 cylinder is definitely cutting in and out under low throttle positions. Roll on and all 4 run strong, but cruising through town the bike constantly lurches back and forth as one cylinder fires intermittently. Annoying to the extreme.

So this afternoon I finally bit the bullet and decided to pull the carbs and tear the rack apart for a full cleaning. Getting the carbs off is pretty easy...trickiest part is releasing the throttle cables....fiddly, but doable.

Separated all the carbs and pulled the bowls off. An impact screwdriver made this a cakewalk. Found a couple things off

First, all the float levels were quite high, going by the "edge of float to circle mark" on the jet block. They were covering about half that circle. Adjusted them all so the edges matched. Second, one of the pilots was pretty much plugged solid. Third, my one cracked/repaired slide was slightly catching about halfway through it's travel. Just a little stiff spot. Gave it a light sanding which smoothed out the action.

After they were torn down they took turns in the heated sonic tank. Those things are pretty cool...turn it on and just watch crap float out of all the orifices. Every carb turned the 1.5gal tank water completely black after a 10min cycle, despite looking fairly clean from the outside.

None of the gaskets ripped or split on disassembly so I slammed them all back together without using any parts. Reinstalling the choke linkage was a bit fiddly since it will go together 180* out, but then the finger set screws don't line up with the detents in the axles. Getting the sync screws back together was a bit fiddly also but not horrible.

All in all I went from "rack off the bike" to "rack re-assembled" in around 4 hours. Rack teardown, teardown each carb, sonic clean it, blow everything out w carb spray, then air, reassemble each carb, reassemble rack. If I had to do it again I could probably cut that considerably, since I spent probably a good hour fiddling with the choke and throttle linkages on reassembly that I assume would take someone who knows what they're doing about 5 minutes. Otherwise it's somewhat time consuming but really not difficult.

Though didn't get time to put them back on the bike and try it out. That'll come tomorrow, see if I screwed up or not. I'm familiar with carbs but hadn't actually split the Vmax rack up yet.

Tips for first timers....
Use an impact screwdriver on the rack bracket screws. They're quite tight.
Label the carbs and choke fingers
Take several pictures of the choke linkage, sync screws, and fuel lines, since pretty much all of these can be reassembled incorrectly. These proved helpful when it was time to marry the carbs up again.

Fingers crossed it runs tomorrow! Hopefully this will finally kick that annoying hesitation it's had for over 3 years now.
 
You need to be very careful when using an impact screwdriver on a carb body. I suggest using a straight-jaw Vice-Grips on those screw heads instead, you have less chance of splitting a carb body casting. Whether it is the float bowl or the CV cap, the screws can all be undone w/the Vice-Grips if the rack is disassembled. Also, I keep a new screwdriver to use just on things like that, where the Phillips slots fit nice & tight, so there is less chance of messing-up the "X" trying to remove the screws.

I replace the screws w/either hex head machine screws or Allen head screws.
 
+1 to what medic said - REAL careful with impact on carb bodies as they can crack too easily.

It's also a great idea to replace all those pesky philips screws with allen heads while you're there.
 
Let us know how it works out. Gonna get into mine very soon, just waiting on new intake boots.
 
I'm going to Kyle's for a few parts today. I'm going to do a similar cleaning on my 94's carbs. It was running perfect till a couple weeks ago when some little black particles finally took their toll on the idle jets. Runs like crap and a Shotgun procedure didn't help. Gotta run with the choke on at idle now.

Good Luck on yours, I'm awaiting your results... Thanks for this thread..

Dave
 
just out of curiousity...does anyone offer an allen head carb screw kit????
 
just out of curiousity...does anyone offer an allen head carb screw kit????
Not sure about a kit, but the screws are all available in just about any hardware store. Allen heads are also my favorite.
The screws to split the rack? Never-Seize is on my threads.
Sometimes you just have to use a hand impact. I cracked a manifold once taking the chrome cover screws off. Careful is the word. Sometimes I'll use a center punch. I'll use it to tap the stripped screw ccw on the edge of the screw, Making a notch to hold the punch with a small chisel.
 
Not sure about a kit, but the screws are all available in just about any hardware store. Allen heads are also my favorite.
The screws to split the rack? Never-Seize is on my threads.
Sometimes you just have to use a hand impact. I cracked a manifold once taking the chrome cover screws off. Careful is the word. Sometimes I'll use a center punch. I'll use it to tap the stripped screw ccw on the edge of the screw, Making a notch to hold the punch with a small chisel.
been there..done that!! thats why i asked. i figured maybe someone cobbled up a kit . maybe ill do just that myself!!:punk:
 
i think the manual calls for loctite, not anti seize in some spots. i would probably take the time to get allen heads if i ever have to do mine again.
 
Well dropped the rack back onto the bike this afternoon and fired it up. Started after a bit of cranking and immeditely revealed how massively screwed up the sync and idle settings now were. Turned the idle down but it had a hesitant idle that would "hang" for a few seconds before dropping back to 1000, and one carb was frequently "sneezing" and popping.

Hooked up the carb sync gauges, the left-right sync was out by almost 13 in. No wonder it ran like that. Some screw twidding and about 5 minutes had it purring away at 1000 with a snappy, responsive idle. Mine always seems to eventually even out to about 8-9inHg. Typically the best I can get is all 4 within 1inHg of each other, which seems close enough. Took it for a short test drive and all seems well. Pulled strong all the way to redline, the cylinder dropping out seems to be gone, and the idle was steady, or as steady as a Vmax ever idles.

So hooray! I managed to not botch this and have to tear it all apart again.

I set all 4 a/f screws at 2.5 turns out. Since it seems to run fine, I'm just going to leave these alone, since I'm not aware of any accurate way to adjust them without an a/f sniffer.
 
I use an impact screwdriver a good bit but try NOT to hit it with a hammer if at all possible. Most times it works without the hammer because the bits just seem to fit better plus you can get some extra leverage on it.

If there are 3+ guys interested in getting some carb screws I can sell them for about $12 shipped to the lower 48.

I advise that guys use button heads screws on the floats and connection plates but switch out to a socket head allen bolt for the diaphragm covers. The socket type screws engage the allen bolt a little more which results in a longer lasting bolt and stand up to repeated use better than a button head.

I have some rotor bolts and other misc stainless stuff too. Some flat head screws for master cylinder covers for vmax, some for FJR (FJR are longer).
 
I have the basic ColorTune kit for the a/f adjustment but not an easy task on a Vmax imho.

I know Sean also sells the screws for the carbs but I changed my mind and used the existing stainless steel phillips ones. Back then, I also found this site where they have it as a kit or individual screws in different style (button/flat head):
http://www.desmoparts.com/products/parts-catalog/yamaha/yamaha-v-max-stainless-steel-screw-kit

Ra, were you disconnecting the throttle cables from the junction box hidden behind the electronic components under the left scoop? Separating the throttle cables from the connection/adjustment point was a lot easier and quicker then messing with them on the carb body.
 
Well dropped the rack back onto the bike this afternoon and fired it up. Started after a bit of cranking and immeditely revealed how massively screwed up the sync and idle settings now were. Turned the idle down but it had a hesitant idle that would "hang" for a few seconds before dropping back to 1000, and one carb was frequently "sneezing" and popping.

Hooked up the carb sync gauges, the left-right sync was out by almost 13 in. No wonder it ran like that. Some screw twidding and about 5 minutes had it purring away at 1000 with a snappy, responsive idle. Mine always seems to eventually even out to about 8-9inHg. Typically the best I can get is all 4 within 1inHg of each other, which seems close enough. Took it for a short test drive and all seems well. Pulled strong all the way to redline, the cylinder dropping out seems to be gone, and the idle was steady, or as steady as a Vmax ever idles.

So hooray! I managed to not botch this and have to tear it all apart again.

I set all 4 a/f screws at 2.5 turns out. Since it seems to run fine, I'm just going to leave these alone, since I'm not aware of any accurate way to adjust them without an a/f sniffer.


Awesome, Congrats for a job well done. :clapping:Thanks for posting all of this, it'll be helpful to me soon....

Dave
 
No, they were still hooked up to the twist grip. I kind of got a technique...found that a moderate size round shaft screwdriver can jam the throttle wide open, allowing me to use both hands (and another screwdriver) to guide the knobbie into the slot. Once I realized that it was pretty simple.

The bad news is this made absolutely zero difference to the hesitation/ cylinder dropping. Nada. Runs exactly the same as before. Fine if you're romping on the gas, in town and at legal cruise speeds it's like an old jalopy bucking back and forth. It's annoying to drive, sounds like crap, and the fuel mileage tanks when it's acting up(which the last few days has been 100% of the time). From a normal in the high 30's to low 30's. Anyone wanna buy a tricked out Vmax that "can't drive 55"? (135 is fine though haha)

I'm really running out of ideas. My only thought is there may be a pinhole in one of the diaphragms, though I very carefully inspected them against a light while I had everything apart and couldn't find the slightest imperfection.
 
i think the manual calls for loctite, not anti seize in some spots. i would probably take the time to get allen heads if i ever have to do mine again.
Agree, on the choke lever screw I always use loctite. On stuff that tends to seize up like the rack bracket screws, I use a dab of anti seize or greese. All allen heads here.
 

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