MSGU1-4936
Well-Known Member
At my wits end with my carb problems. I had them off the bike 4 times now. I went back to stock everything except the slip-ons. Idle is poor, seems like I have to have the screws out +3 for any decent idle or power, even that is a joke, cant get over 4-5000rpm, hesitation, backfire from the exhaust.. Placed new plugs in, one looks like its brand new, the other 3 look like too rich. Everything is clean new parts from the carb kit, not sure what to do at this point. If I bring it to a shop out here I'm looking at over $500. Bike was working fine prior except the boots were finished, I replaced those, and noticed the crap coming out from the drain screw so I opened the back of the carb and replaced the parts in there as well as the gaskets etc. I start at 2.5 turns out but its way too lean. I tried the pea shooter, but like I said everything was cleaned when I opened the carbs. Compression is running at 175, 179,180, 183. For an 88 its pretty good.
Floats are correct, I used the upside down method as indicated in ths section, converted from inches to mm
Can anyone tell me what the proper procedure is when I place the carbs back on in order of sequence, maybe I'm missing something. I sync the carbs evertyime, do they need to be synced after every adjustment to the air/fuel mixture screws?
How do you bench sync carbs
Any Suggestions
Ron:bang head:
Floats are correct, I used the upside down method as indicated in ths section, converted from inches to mm
Can anyone tell me what the proper procedure is when I place the carbs back on in order of sequence, maybe I'm missing something. I sync the carbs evertyime, do they need to be synced after every adjustment to the air/fuel mixture screws?
How do you bench sync carbs
Any Suggestions
Ron:bang head: