Warm up the motor and adjust the idle to 1100 rpm.
It’s easiest to refer to each carb by it’s factory designated number:
Front
#2 #4
#1 #3
Rear
When you mount the carbs on the bike they sit in the carb boots, the boots fit over aluminum intake manifolds, also called intake runners. Each intake manifold has a brass spigot covered by a rubber cap…except #2 which has a rubber hose going to the vacuum advance.
Disconnect the rubber hose from #2 and remove the rubber caps from the other 3 carburetors. These brass spigots are where you will attach your sync gauge. (I prefer the Carbtune). Attach them in whatever order makes sense to you.
The #2 carb is the master carb, it has no adjusting screw and the other carbs are sync’d to it.
There is one adjusting screw on the left side and two on the right. Look at the left side photo between the lower cover bolts, there is a flat headed slotted screw just below the choke rod…and on the right side note the same type screw head except there is two side by side.
Here is what they do:
-the screw on the left side sync’s the #1 carb to the #2
-the rear screw on the right side sync’s the #3 carb with #4
-the front screw on the right side sync’s the right side carbs ($3 & #4) with the left side carbs (#1 & #2)
Start by syncing #1 to #2
Then syncing #3 to #4
Then sync the right side to the left side.
It takes some practice as every adjustment minutely affects the other carbs.
Make tiny adjustments and blip the throttle after each adjustment allowing time for it to settle out before making the next adjustment.