Charging issue

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MrMAX1985

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So I started to ride this spring and discovered my battery is not being charged. I went thru diagnostics on charging system and found some bad diodes in regulator. I replaced the regulator but it still only charges to 12.9 vts at 4000 rpms. The crimp fix was already eliminated when I replaced the battery along with separate positive and negative cables added. I checked stator ohms-all at .42 ohms. I checked output at 3500 rpms and had 50-60 AC volts. When checking stator ohms I found .1 ohms on all leads when going to ground. There is no spec in manual for this reading-do I have a problem with the stator? The battery is 1 year old-Odyssey 650, and tested good after full charge.
 
When you test your stator, what you should be doing is putting one electrode on one of the stator wires and then putting the other electrode on either of the other two wires. Then just work your way around testing the other two. That reading should be between .1 and .132 on all of them.
 
According to the Service manual you should get a reading of 0.42Ω ± 15% at 20°C (white to white).

Use the attached to check your charging system.
 

Attachments

  • Charging system fault_finding flow chart.pdf
    4.7 MB
Parminio, that is how I tested them and got .42 ohms on each leg. (Fluke 189 meter). I got .1 ohms when going from 1 leg to ground on each. I had 50-60 volts reving engine with stator disconnected. as soon as I plugged in the stator the voltages dropped to 12.2, 10.9, and 9.2 volts when reving engine. I will be getting a new stator and trying that.
 
Parminio, that is how I tested them and got .42 ohms on each leg. (Fluke 189 meter). I got .1 ohms when going from 1 leg to ground on each. I had 50-60 volts reving engine with stator disconnected. as soon as I plugged in the stator the voltages dropped to 12.2, 10.9, and 9.2 volts when reving engine. I will be getting a new stator and trying that.
If I am understanding you correctly you measured 0.42 ohms between all of the the white pairs?
That would suggest to me that it is in spec.

It always conerns me when I read 'and trying that' as it implies to me that a positive diagnosis has not been achieved...which is why I suggested working through the flow chart above.
 
MaxMidnight, yes they all measured .42 (in spec). I followed your chart all the way to bottom of B and it says to change stator. In my job I am a 2% er. (98% throw a part at it and hope it fixes it, I want to know what the actual failure is before throwing a part at it)
 
1717257781095.png

Looks like a short for sure. Or maybe the tiara that the woman would have worn in Fritz Lang's Metropolis. One of the earliest science fiction movies, it's 97 years old.

the short clip where Maria becomes the 'mechanical woman' and the human donor expires with a dramatic drop of her head.

1717258013277.png
1717258211188.png
 
So to summarise, the measurements on the stator were in spec. , but clearly the burnt insulation on the wires indicates something abnormal had occurred.
 
Yes, according to the service manual specs. But the service manual did not have a spec. for each leg to ground, that is where I found an issue. Checking the new stator I had no continuity (OL) to ground where the old one had .1 ohms on all 3 legs. Without the stator hooked up to the bikes electrical system it would produce the 50-60 AC volts. As soon as I hooked it back up I had 12.2, 10.9, and 9.2 when checking stator output. I think it was also affecting the ignition system at idle because it will idle very smooth now.
 

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