Cleaning out carbs

[02GF74]

edited previous post.

Updated to ask: how can I tell if the pilot jets are clear?

I am using a piece of 0.8 mm aluminium MIG wire which has been nipped many times with a pair of cutters so it has a rough surface like a tiny round file, being softer than brass, it should not damage the jets/tubes.

Since the main jet and emulsifier tube are open both ends, it is easy to see they are clear but pilot jet is fitted in a blind hole - how can I tell it is clear? If petrol cones out of the block when squirted through the hole for the pilot jet, is that sufficient? …. I'd hate to have to try to remove the pilot jet.

 

[Fire-medic]

Two phillips/JIS screws and the pilot jet can be removed, once the float bowl is off, to remove the jet block. It's a good idea to have 4 jet block gaskets as they will usually tear with any removal of the jet block. Then it's just remove the rubber plugs, and a narrow screwdriver to remove the two jets in each jet block.

 

[02GF74]

Done two now with out tearing the paper gasket. I do have 4 sets of reconditioning kits on the way, just in case.
Looking to replace the M4 pozi screws with stainless steel ones as the heads were quite rusty.

Somewhat worryingly 3 of the carbs taken apart do not have any blocked jets.

 

[02GF74]

bad news, just found this - emulsion tube (44) has small holes drilled in the side so only way to clear those is removal; I'm going to soak the blocks in acetone (which a component of carb cleaner) and it does a great job shifting gunge inside the carbs.
If I need to remove the tube, would it help to heat up the block?

but is that correct as the rebuild kits how a different part, below the main jet at 3 o'clock position.

Can somebody confirm which is correct; if there are no side holes than the carbs should be ok.... and before somebody says remove them, my gut feeling is that heads will strip hence why I don't want to attempt unless it is the last resort.

 

[MaxMidnight]

... and before somebody says remove them, my gut feeling is that heads will strip hence why I don't want to attempt unless it is the last resort.

That is most likely to happen as they are probably Japanese Industry Standard )JIS) heads and I suspect very few of us have such a screwdriver in our toolkit.

Note that the Phillips type has an extra bit on the bottom which may prevent it seating correctly in a JIS screw head (my theory). It would be worthwhile grinding this off to see if you get a better fit?
The Pozidrive screw head has four smaller flutes between the big ones which will prevent then seating correctly into a JIS or Phillips head.

So perhaps rather than the screw heads being soft it is more likely we are using the wrong tool for the job. DOH!

 

[02GF74]

yeah, thanks for that - got them undone.

there are at least 3 types cross head screwdriver standards, no prizes which of the two I have (clue: off to google for set of JIS screwdrivers).

 

[02GF74]

there's no option - the jets have to come out of the block, manage to get both out of one after heating the block, easier than I expected
the tiny holes in the emulsion tube sides were mostly clear but the hole in the pilot jet is blocked solid, goes away to look for a needle to clear it ….

 

[dannymax]

pfj's are difficult to clean properly as you can't see inside them. I'd recommend getting hold of Sean to see if he has any for sale...might save you having to pull them back out again after a few miles.

 

[02GF74]

all jets removed after heating the block and having the exact size screwdriver, cleaned and reassembled.

just need to figure out why the vboost is not working before refitting carbs but I expect it to purr like a sewing machine …. famous last words

 

[MaxMidnight]

...but I expect it to purr like a sewing machine …. famous last words

I think you would be even happier if it growled like a V Max.