Clutch adjustment?

[naughtyG]

So on the '86 my clutch is slipping, quite a lot whenever I open it up.

I know about the friction modifiers in the oil being no good, and I have no idea what oil this bike has in so an oil change is first on my to do list.

But, the clutch lever bite seems to be quite far from the handlebars, and so I wondered if there is a way to adjust the clutch? With a cable it's easy, but with hydraulics I'm not sure.. Does anyone know? :ummm:

 

[jfeagins]

I know of no adjustment for that. Sounds like your clutch plates may be worn thinner than recommended.

 

[DMAN999]

Our Clutch isn't Adjustable.
You need to remove the Clutch cover and inspect and replace any worn Friction Plates.
Also you can sand the Steel Plates with Scotch-Brite pad or fine sand paper if they are Black, if they are Blued you'll want to replace them.
This Guide will help you (you can ignore the DD Mod info if your clutch is stock):
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

 

[bazwell]

The clutch lever can't move further away from the bars... do you mean that the clutch feels hard instantly? ie. no free play?

If it is rock hard, there is a blocked passage in the m/cyl. 5 minute fix.

 

[naughtyG]

The clutch lever can't move further away from the bars... do you mean that the clutch feels hard instantly? ie. no free play?

No I meant it starts to bite when the lever is quite almost all the way out, on all my other Maxs it's always been more like half-way out.

Oil change today, we'll see what happens..

 

[m-cman]

I have owned two and driven several Maxes and all but one engaged at the end of lever travel. The one oddball engaged about halfway. All the Maxes in my riding group are the same. (7 Gen 1's). There is no adjustment. I have small hands and always hated the travel, especially with gloves. Had to rotate my hand to use the clutch. Wound up getting one of those adjustable lever sets from Hong Kong. Absolutely love it. Can modulate the clutch so much better with no problems from my short fingers!!!

 

[marsmax85]

I had slippage than I changed oil to 15 /40 rotella haven't any prob's since

 

[naughtyG]

I used Rotella in Florida too, but unfortunately it's not available here down under.

Just changed oil today with Shell Helix 3 20W50, but then it rained so could not test yet. Hopefully it'll be all it needed!

 

[SpecOps13]

G, I've noticed that when I let the bikes set too long or only take short rides the clutches will slip some till the clutch plates warm up and dump the excess oil. Kyle replaced a few plates and added one in the rear of my 94 when it was really slipping. No Problemo Since. Good Luck. BTW, I do use Rotilla T, sorry you can't get some. Kyle rode my 89 last week. I was beginning to wonder if the clutch was slipping on it. Seemed too easy to break the rear tire loose. I asked him when he got back if he noticed any slippage and he said no. Thank God. Good Luck Bro.

 

[RaWarrior]

No I meant it starts to bite when the lever is quite almost all the way out, on all my other Maxs it's always been more like half-way out.

Oil change today, we'll see what happens..

Mine was like that from day one. All the clutch action was in the first 10% of lever travel. The clutch started slipping so I replaced it with the PCW kit, new OEM frictions and scotch-brite sanded the steels. Didn't slip anymore but didn't change the feel of the clutch action. It had a SS line though.

 

[naughtyG]

It's weird that it changes from bike to bike when there's no adjustment?

My old '86 and my '00 defo felt the same, i.e. clutch bite between 1/2 and 3/4 of clutch lever travel, but this '86 I have now definitely bites way past 3/4 travel.

 

[naughtyG]

OK so yesterday I tore into the '86 clutch so see what's up:

- clutch pressure plates are slightly blue here and there (they have been slipping..), not too bad but I gave 'em all a good Scotchbrite

- clutch friction plates are all good at 2.3mm thick (Yamaha says 1.8mm service limit)

- no warpage, cracks or damage to anything I could find

- clutch spring is in great shape, over 8mm tall (Yamaha service limit = 6.3mm)

So having checked it all and cleaned up the pressure plates with Scotchbrite, I put it all back together and rode it to check. It's a little bit better, but it still slips when the vboost kicks in.

One thing I noticed with that as soon as you put any pressure on the clutch lever it starts actuating the clutch. I'm thinking the clutch is not being released fully and not benefitting from the full strength of its spring.

Surely there must be something that can be adjusted for that - pushrod, slave cylinder, something??

Anyone? Sean, what do you say?

 

[davesax36]

I'd get a violin string or similar tiny wire and see if you can't remove some buildup from the secondary return hole (or whatever it's called). It could be that it's taking a long time for the fluid to push it's way past a partial blockage of that hole. I thought that's what mine was doing, at least. And it's free to try.

 

[naughtyG]

Bump. Sean? Anyone?

 

[bazwell]

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to record this.

I had the same problem with Veronica, and when I got her back from smash repairs recently I re-discovered the problem.

It is fixed now. When I rebuilt the clutch master, I put the pushrod in backwards. This is what caused mine to have the exact same symptoms as G's bike.
If you put it in backwards (to me, it looked right) the little spring that goes there can coil bind, effectively making the pushrod longer!

10/10 to me for dumb mistakes! :bang head:

For clarity, the spring goes over the end that is longer, so that the pushrod goes right through the spring.

 

[naughtyG]

Thanks for that Baz! I'm still experiencing a slightly slippy clutch so I'll be checking this out when I come back from holidays.

Glad someone here had a clue - I was starting to despair on this one..

 

[huskyman510]

I had exact same problem, checked all friction plates etc, seemed ok but ditched the lot and did the double d conversion. That extra spring plate made the clutch heavy but when engaged feels like the clutch is welded into place! made me happy for a while until I have this other problem of lever engaging less and less as I ride until its at the end of the lever pull, although still doesnt slip.
I have also posted this issue to see if anyone can help.

 

[Drifter2406]

Mine is the opposite to this, my clutch engages as soon as it moves off the handlebar, does it need to be changed?

 

[Fire-medic]

Mine is the opposite to this, my clutch engages as soon as it moves off the handlebar, does it need to be changed?

No, not as long as it totally disengages after you pass the halfway point when pulling it in. There is no changing the stock hydraulic system and its components. Freeplay and point of engagement/disengagement are designed in. If you get an aftermarket lever/master cyl, it may have different points of engagement as many have discovered.

 

[Drifter2406]

No, not as long as it totally disengages after you pass the halfway point when pulling it in. There is no changing the stock hydraulic system and its components. Freeplay and point of engagement/disengagement are designed in. If you get an aftermarket lever/master cyl, it may have different points of engagement as many have discovered.

No the whole clutch operation starts and finishes within 15mm of the handlebar.