Clutch/Brake fluid

[tonyg-5386]

Is this ok to use for the brakes and clutch? I'm going to bleed the clutch. The fluid is nasty looking. I have my wife to assist me if necessary. As long as I keep the master topped off at all times and don't let any air in I'll be ok....right? I've read too many scary posts about guys having a hard time doing this. I don't have a mityvac but could borrow one if necessary. I remember the front brakes being a pita to bleed but I think that was because I let the MC run too low by accident and it took forever to build up pressure but it eventually did.

 

[ninjaneer]

I'm thinking you'll be fine, just be sure to flush the lines good if you don't know what's in there already. Do you have a shop vac? If so, DIY the mityvac with some plastic tubing and a glass jar by cutting a hole in the lid for the shop vac nozzle and drilling a hole for the plastic tube.

As long as you keep the masters topped off, you'll be fine otherwise.

What always works best for me, is after a preliminary burping of the lines to zip-tie the levers fully engaged overnight. Works like a charm.

How long has the fluid been neglected? Because brake fluid is hygroscopic, rebuilding the masters and slaves may be in order to replace rotten seals and rusted pistons.

Good luck!

 

[Rhoy Carter]

Im thinking you cannot mix the synthetic with regular brake fluid

 

[VMike]

Tony that's the exact same fluid I used after rebuilding my clutch master and slave and it works fine. I agree with Ninjaneer,you should be ok especially if you run the tubing into a container of the fluid you're using so you don't take the chance of sucking air back when the lever is released and the bleeder is still cracked open. I live in Vista not that far from you if you want to come by and we can use my mighty vac.

Mike

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Im thinking you cannot mix the synthetic with regular brake fluid

Theres no such thing. You have 3 types of hydraulic oil, the regular glycol based one (DOT3, 4, 5.1), Silicon based (DOT5) and mineral oil based (not so common).

 

[Lew L]

I have "speed bleeders" on both my bikes. For both the brake and clutchs. They work great---- quick one man job.
Lew

 

[tothemax93]

Theres no such thing. You have 3 types of hydraulic oil, the regular glycol based one (DOT3, 4, 5.1), Silicon based (DOT5) and mineral oil based (not so common).

The original post has a pic of the brake fluid bottle labeled as synthetic:ummm:

 

[[email protected]]

That fluid should work just fine pending some jackass did not replace your fluid with dot 5 which would be highly unlikely!

 

[tonyg-5386]

Yes, it's synthetic dot3/4 fluid. I will be flushing all of the old fluid out and replacing it with this. When I'm done flushing it out it will only have the new fluid in the entire system. I will not be leaving 2 kinds of fluid mixed together when I'm done. That's ok...right?

 

[bazwell]

Im thinking you cannot mix the synthetic with regular brake fluid

+1

To my knowledge, once you have run non-synthetic fluid it somehow changes the rubber seals.
If you switch to synthetic it can ruin the seals. You can only use synthetic with new seals and hoses.

 

[Fire-medic]

Just begin by using a turkey baster & paper towels to remove all old fluid in the reservoir, then fill it w/new fluid, & begin bleeding. Pump the lever w/bleeder closed, then open the bleeder & the lever goes down to the handlebar, keep holding it & do not release it until you close the bleeder valve, repeat as often as required to get fresh fluid thru the entire system & coming-out the bleeder hose, it helps to use clear plastic line so you can view the fluid moving. The end of the bleeder line should end below the fluid level of your catch can, & hold the catch can below the fluid level of the bleeder valve (not absolutely necessary but it seems to flow better). Pump the lever repeatedly until you get pressure & hold it squeezed ea. time you get ready to bleed the valve, release it only after you close the bleeder valve. As-long as you end the bleeder hose below fluid level in a receptacle & you don't suck-dry the master cyl, it doesn't matter if you forget & release the lever prematurely before the bleeder is closed. Just don't do it repeatedly.

I look for the smaller hole in the master cyl to expel tiny bubbles, which will happen until the air is gone, then you should get a little vertical 'jet' of fluid from squeezing the lever. This can spill so be sure to use rags or paper towels under & around your master cyl. If you do this once a season your brakes will last longer because of removing water from your system which infiltrates it & causes corrosion.

I use a Mityvac, I have 3 of them, Sears sells them. You don't need it but they work well. My oldest one is all-white nylon & must be 25+ yrs old. I am gonna wrap some Armaflex pipe insulation around my gauge housing as they are prone to damage & the closed-cell foam should help to prevent it.

http://s.shld.net/is/image/Sears/sp...op_sharpen=1&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

http://www.sears.com:80/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM5952503102P?prdNo=16&blockNo=16&blockType=G16

Now on-sale for $31.49.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

The original post has a pic of the brake fluid bottle labeled as synthetic:ummm:

Synthetic is everything that is not mineral, so what we call regular brake fluid is synthetic. SOrry i wasn't clear.

Synthetic vs mineral - the production method
DOT x,y,z - Type of hydraulic oil

 

[VMax-Mike]

Tonyg that exact brake fluid brand valvoline dot 3&4 synthetic was reccomended to me by one of the best vmax tech's .

 

[bazwell]

+1

To my knowledge, once you have run non-synthetic fluid it somehow changes the rubber seals.
If you switch to synthetic it can ruin the seals. You can only use synthetic with new seals and hoses.

Better correct myself!
Dot5 synthetic is silicone based and can't be mixed with dot3 or 4, which is what I was thinking of.
I just googled what wildweasel_pt said about glycol based fluids and what he said is spot on.
That Valvoline synthetic fluid mixes with any other dot 3 or 4 fluid OK.

I wonder if this means Valvoline are just playing with marketing words? It's confusing to me! :ummm:

 

[wildweasel_pt]

For you all to know. These fluids are made by a limited amount of manufacturers and then they are redistributed with different brandnames/logos. So what you get is all the same and end up paying the brand only... Just make sure the cans are properly selaed in other for them not to have moisture in them, That kills the fluid and lowering the boiling point what makes them uselesss and brings you bleeding problems and spongy feeling when braking...

 

[PDWeyand]

There is an enlarged photo of that bottle

 

[ouchez]

I use that same Valvolive fluid and it is fine. As stated get "Speed Bleeders", they are cheap and essential, google the company and get the long neck version.

Also remove the fake gas tank shell and cover the fender and scoops to keep the brake fluid off of them while bleeding.

O

 

[tonyg-5386]

That was easy!!! My wife helped me. Thanks for the tips. I never let air enter the system so it worked great. I used a turkey baster to remove most of the fluid in the master, filled it up, attached the hose and 5/16" wrench to the bleed nipple, had my wife work the lever and she kept refilling the MC as the level dropped. Pump fully, pump fully, pump fully, pump and hold the lever halfway. Loosen bleeder valve and lever automatically sinks toward the handlebars. Keep lever held toward handlebar and tighten bleeder. Release lever. Repeat many, many times. I made sure to never release the lever while the bleeder was open. Within 5 minutes I was getting new clear fluid flowing through the rubber hose that was attached to the bleeder. Took it for a test ride and I immediately felt the difference!!

 

[naughtyG]

Great stuff! With speed bleeders you wouldn't even need the wife

And, don't try this on the clutch line - it doesn't work that way. It needs to be reverse-bled using either a MightyVac tool or a syringe to blow the fluid though the bleed nipple.

 

[tonyg-5386]

It was the clutch line that I bled....seemed to work fine. I don't know why you would need to reverse bleed if no air entered the system. I have clean fluid in my system now and the bike shifts fine. I would understand the reverse bleeding if you emptied the system..new lines..rebuilt MC..but if you're just pushing fluid through it and don't let it run dry it works...at least it did for me.