Clutch Help Please!

[trent7276]

No problems with the clutch for 2 years. Last weekend I replaced the clutch fluid with Standard Dot 4 brake fluid as the manual said, and bled it. No problems and I've got a good consistant pull with plenty of engagement. Then, afternoons when I ride home from work the clutch only engages at the very end of the lever travel and slips if I'm on full throttle. I re-bleed when I get home and everything is back to normal until the next afternoon! I've done this three times now...what could it be? 2005 VMAX.

Trent
#4060

 

[turbostang]

My guess is air in the system.
When mine started doing it, I noticed a leak from the slave cylinder and ended up replacing it.

 

[shawn kloker]

Trent,is it slipping in the low gears or high gears?Make sure the 2 banjo bolts and bleeder are good and tight.Blled some more.When I first got my max I was convinced the clutch was slipping but it was really burning tire.

 

[trent7276]

well, it's slipping alright...in about 2-3 gear full throttle, you know when you load the engine a bit. I thought about the air thing....bad banjo...how can I tell? Wouldn't it be leaking? I've never adjusted them so I'd think they'd be tight still from the factory 2 years ago. I've only got about 3000 miles on her.

 

[shawn kloker]

I still think that you are burning rubber.Try putting it in 5th gear on some good pavement while stopped.Rev it to about 3000-3500 rpm and dump the clutch quickly.It should stall right out if the clutch is good.If not it will slip then.Slipping clutches show up in the highest gears first.Mostly in 5th gear on the highway.

 

[trent7276]

I might agree, but what about the clutch engaging right off the bar after bleeding, and then it fading all the way to the very end after a day? I know for a fact I'm not spinning the rear tire at the regular starts I'm making. I would think I could tell if I was spinning on full accel as well, since that has never been a problem in 2 years, and the back would get squirley. I used to race a 900RR crotch rocket so I'm definitely aware of that feeling. lol

 

[Heretic]

Sounds like air is getting into the system, or is still in the system. Double check everything for tightness and re-bleed them until you are very certain that all the air is out.

 

[maleko89]

If that fails, just get a new slave cylinder. They're not very expensive. I replaced mine when the bike had about 30,000 on it....they seem to go bad quickly if you don't change the fluid at least every 2 years.

Mark
#1098

 

[trent7276]

Hey guys, just a quick update. I think the problem is solved.

Well, bled the clutch again, and again more slipping in high gears when opening throttle quickly. Tied the lever shut over 2 days. Same thing...fine in the morning, then about 10 miles in it'll start slipping again. Same coming home from work...fine, then slipping after a few miles.

Well, finally went to the next step suggested which is bleeding the system from the banjo bolt up top. It worked! So far it's strong on a 10 mile test. Will report back if it didn't work after tomorrow's commute.

Just curious...what are the symptoms if your clutch is bad, burnt, or need replacement??

Thanks for all the help!

Trent

 

[4gasem]

Just curious...what are the symptoms if your clutch is bad, burnt, or need replacement??



Trent

Glad you got it sorted... I have only had to replace one clutch on a bike before and what I noticed was that it did it more when warm than at any time...

If you replace the clutch buy the Barnett plate and spring kit and stock friction plates work fine... I usually prefer stock over A/M. I am sure some will disagree but I have read a lot on the subject and always come away with stock... Also check the metal plates for warpage, blueing, and thickness tolerance.

 

[trent7276]

Sorry to say the fading in the clutch came back...just took longer.

I went out and bought Gaffer Steel braided lines all around the bike.

Looks good, feels twice as good, and most importantly.....problem solved!