The thing w/ a clutch is that the lever pressure moves the diaphragm spring enough to unload the friction discs and driven plates (the 'steelies' in the clutch pack). VMaxes do not have a 'strong' clutch pull. With the lever properly-adjusted for free-play, you should encounter resistance almost immediately, and the amount of resistance should be the same to bring the lever to the grip. The clutch should be disengaged before the lever comes anywhere near the grip, and should not begin to 'drag' if you keep the lever to the grip (where the clutch begins to re-engage w/no release of the lever), which is a sign of internal 'bleeding' of the master cylinder. That's cured by either a rebuild kit or a new master cyl. Anymore, I just spend the $ for a new master. Two of the last 4 I attempted didn't work and there was no indicator in the bore that the rebuild wouldn't work.
If you have another guy's VMax bike to sample, & the clutch setup is the same as yours, what does his feel like in an A-B comparison? They should be the same assuming they are both bled and have a same adjustment to actuation. Different? Still acting-up? Try a new master, look at the slave, and replace your flex hyd. line w/SS braided.
If you have another guy's VMax bike to sample, & the clutch setup is the same as yours, what does his feel like in an A-B comparison? They should be the same assuming they are both bled and have a same adjustment to actuation. Different? Still acting-up? Try a new master, look at the slave, and replace your flex hyd. line w/SS braided.
