Clutch won't disengage

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44boyd

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Went out for a ride after I rebuilt my carbs, when I went to put it in the garage it jumped forward when I put it into first. Thought I might have air in the line so I bled the clutch and still doesn't work. Looking at the safety switch I noticed that there's a gap between the lever and the plunger off of the safety switch. Am I missing a part? Wife dropped it in the garage trying to move it so wondering if something broke off while I was riding. Anyone have a photo of what the underneath of the clutch lever should look like? Don't know how to post a picture with my phone.
 
It's common for the bike to lurch just a little when putting into gear even with the clutch in. BUT, it should be disengaging. You should be able to feel the clutch "break over" if it's working. Kind of like how a compound bow gets easy after it hits the apex of the pull.
 
I am sure someone will know right off the bat what your talking about, but I am not sure what the safety switch is.

I had the problem myself a while ago, but once I bled the line and topped the fluid off it was good to go.
 
You were able to bleed without pumping the lever? A vaccum bleeder and someone filling the resevoiur would work though. Sometimes letting it sit overnight with the master cover off helps. Visually, you would see the plunger moving the cylinder or even if something broke or fell off, I think the lever would show a ton of free play or take up. I would rebleed then start looking at slave cylinder. Let us know how it works out.
 
Also u can't bleed clutch like brakes. Just doesn't for that way for some reason!:ummm:

U can get a bottle of fluid hook up a small hose to the bleeder and get a 20oz pop bottle. Put a little water in it. Take the hose and put it in the pop bottle under water line.. remove your resevior cap fill it up. Leave cap off break loose the bleeder and pump away. Keep it filled with fluid or you'll pump air into the lines.. with the hose below waterline u can leave the bleeder open and just keep on pumping handle it will not suck any air up. Once you see no more bubbles close the bleeder and take off hose.. I had to do this to mine. Especially if it has no fluid in it.. works very well!!

Also a easy way to change fluid.
 
I used the Mighty Vac to bleed it, clutch lever has pressure when I pull it. Gonna try and bypass/disconnect the clutch safety switch tonight to see if that works, seen it mentioned in other posts. I know it jumps a little when you put it in gear normally, but that jump kills the bike now. Even when the bike is off, I can't put it in gear and move it-don't know if it allows you to or not normally.
 
Just exactly how much, would you say, 'free play' do you have when first pulling in on the clutch lever?

If the bike is lurching forward when you put in in gear, while the engine is running, then there's probably nothing wrong with your clutch safety switch. It's your clutch fluid giving you grief.

Most likely have an air bubble trapped high up in the lines someplace. When it happens to me, the bubble is most always trapped up at the banjo bolt, where the clutch line attached to the master cylinder on the handlebars. If you cover things extremely well to protect your paint from spilled brake fluid, you can gently loosen that banjo bolt while similtaneously giving your clutch lever a partial pull to 'burp' the air out there. Then immediately tighten the banjo back up BEFORE letting go the clutch lever. I hold a rag all around the banjo when doing this to sop up most of the brake fluid coming out, and prevent it from dripping down onto the other rags I have in place to protect the whole bike. (remove faux cover before doing this to begin with). If you get an air bubble there, you can gently repeat this cycle a couple times to ensure you have all the air out.

If yours acts like mind did, you can bleed and bleed all day long down at the slave cylinder, and still not get all the air outta the system, and most likely, the bubble will return a few hours later up by the banjo bolt.

Holly chit.......Not sure what Donnelly is talking about. I wouldn't put water any where near where I was working on bleeding brakes. A stray droplet of water is the very last thing you would ever want accidently getting up inside your brake system. If I understand what he's saying correctly, it would be much better to use extra brake fluid to sink the end of the overflow hose down into.
 
Just exactly how much, would you say, 'free play' do you have when first pulling in on the clutch lever?

If the bike is lurching forward when you put in in gear, while the engine is running, then there's probably nothing wrong with your clutch safety switch. It's your clutch fluid giving you grief.

Most likely have an air bubble trapped high up in the lines someplace. When it happens to me, the bubble is most always trapped up at the banjo bolt, where the clutch line attached to the master cylinder on the handlebars. If you cover things extremely well to protect your paint from spilled brake fluid, you can gently loosen that banjo bolt while similtaneously giving your clutch lever a partial pull to 'burp' the air out there. Then immediately tighten the banjo back up BEFORE letting go the clutch lever. I hold a rag all around the banjo when doing this to sop up most of the brake fluid coming out, and prevent it from dripping down onto the other rags I have in place to protect the whole bike. (remove faux cover before doing this to begin with). If you get an air bubble there, you can gently repeat this cycle a couple times to ensure you have all the air out.

If yours acts like mind did, you can bleed and bleed all day long down at the slave cylinder, and still not get all the air outta the system, and most likely, the bubble will return a few hours later up by the banjo bolt.

Holly chit.......Not sure what Donnelly is talking about. I wouldn't put water any where near where I was working on bleeding brakes. A stray droplet of water is the very last thing you would ever want accidently getting up inside your brake system. If I understand what he's saying correctly, it would be much better to use extra brake fluid to sink the end of the overflow hose down into.
I'll give it a shot, sounds reasonable. I might have 1/2 inch of play in the lever before it tightens up, but it's off the safety switch by then. I got the mighty vac so I wasn't gonna try the water bit anyway. Thanks for the responses, I'll update y'all tonight.
 
I'll give it a shot, sounds reasonable. I might have 1/2 inch of play in the lever before it tightens up, but it's off the safety switch by then. I got the mighty vac so I wasn't gonna try the water bit anyway. Thanks for the responses, I'll update y'all tonight.

Ill take a picture when I get home.. it will not suck any water up the hose.. u can also break fluid in bottle.. any liquid just waters cheaper than brake fluid lol
 
I've had this problem 3 times. I put it in nuetral and push it down a hill , jump on and turn the key to on , pull in the clutch and shift to second , pop the clutch. It always starts and gets me home. By the time I'm home , the bubble or whatever was causing the glitch is gone. I usually bleed the clutch once back in the garage and it didn't return for a while. This usually convinces me it's time to change oil as well as bleed the clutch.
 
Just exactly how much, would you say, 'free play' do you have when first pulling in on the clutch lever?

If the bike is lurching forward when you put in in gear, while the engine is running, then there's probably nothing wrong with your clutch safety switch. It's your clutch fluid giving you grief.

Most likely have an air bubble trapped high up in the lines someplace. When it happens to me, the bubble is most always trapped up at the banjo bolt, where the clutch line attached to the master cylinder on the handlebars. If you cover things extremely well to protect your paint from spilled brake fluid, you can gently loosen that banjo bolt while similtaneously giving your clutch lever a partial pull to 'burp' the air out there. Then immediately tighten the banjo back up BEFORE letting go the clutch lever. I hold a rag all around the banjo when doing this to sop up most of the brake fluid coming out, and prevent it from dripping down onto the other rags I have in place to protect the whole bike. (remove faux cover before doing this to begin with). If you get an air bubble there, you can gently repeat this cycle a couple times to ensure you have all the air out.

If yours acts like mind did, you can bleed and bleed all day long down at the slave cylinder, and still not get all the air outta the system, and most likely, the bubble will return a few hours later up by the banjo bolt.

Holly chit.......Not sure what Donnelly is talking about. I wouldn't put water any where near where I was working on bleeding brakes. A stray droplet of water is the very last thing you would ever want accidently getting up inside your brake system. If I understand what he's saying correctly, it would be much better to use extra brake fluid to sink the end of the overflow hose down into.
Here's the winner. Banjo bolt at the top of the handle bars was the problem. Bled that and the slave cylinder again and worked like a charm. The piece that fell off was off the radiator cover by the reflector, at least thats just cosmetic. Thanks for the help guys and quick responses.
 
Here's the winner. Banjo bolt at the top of the handle bars was the problem. Bled that and the slave cylinder again and worked like a charm. The piece that fell off was off the radiator cover by the reflector, at least thats just cosmetic. Thanks for the help guys and quick responses.

Good to here!!
 
Here's the winner. Banjo bolt at the top of the handle bars was the problem. Bled that and the slave cylinder again and worked like a charm. The piece that fell off was off the radiator cover by the reflector, at least thats just cosmetic. Thanks for the help guys and quick responses.

Yes. Very good to hear! :eusa_dance:
 
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