Coincidence or Correlation???

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Satariel666...how specifically do you check and then if needed adjust the timing? This is sounding like its getting beyond my capabilities...I've had my hands in someones chest massaging their heart but auto/bike mechanics seem to evade me without serious thought. :bang head:
V-max have non ajustable ignition.

You might get multimeter and check the PICUK COIL and VACCUM SENSOR.
Manual will show you how to do it.
 
I have a can of seafoam that I'll dump into the tank and try and run it through. We'll see if that helps. Also change the plugs out.

Its good to know that the pick up coil et al are just sensors that I can test and replace if need be. Lets hope they are not too expensive!!! :confused2:

If anybody in the area has got the equipment to test this stuff on Friday I got a 6-er with your name on it. :punk: Or multiple anybodys!!!
 
I have a can of seafoam that I'll dump into the tank and try and run it through. We'll see if that helps. Also change the plugs out.

Its good to know that the pick up coil et al are just sensors that I can test and replace if need be. Lets hope they are not too expensive!!! :confused2:

If anybody in the area has got the equipment to test this stuff on Friday I got a 6-er with your name on it. :punk: Or multiple anybodys!!!
Damn...if only I had a multimeter...I saw quite a few 6-packs the other day at the store with my name on ALL of them!
 
Damn...if only I had a multimeter...I saw quite a few 6-packs the other day at the store with my name on ALL of them!

I'm telling ya...it would be worth it!:worthy:

Well the plugs are coming today and I will figure out a way how to mess with the pickup coil. Hopefully I will have some good news soon.
 
Alright guys I think I have it fixed...the symptoms at least. Im going to have it all back together tomorrow, but it ran well arond the block without the air filters on.
I changed out the plugs, they were black as hell. Way too rick as I understand it. I also muddled my way though the shotgun cleaning method. After the 1st carb it was easy. I was able to use a can of compressed air for keyboard cleaning to punch out the jets. In the pics below you can see all of the gritty silver material that came out of the idle screw opening. The right rear idle screw has what looks to be corrosion on the spring and washer. This also happened to be the cylinder that was popping the most. Coincidence??

Now that the symptoms are fixed, lets talk about fixing the issue permantly. Specifically it running rich. The PAJ1 is marked 90, PAJ2 170. The idle screws were out 2.5-3 turns. The needle you can see below as well. I know that if I drop the needle down/in it will lean things out. Do I move the clip out some? Shim it?
As I understand it the idle screw position can also change things. As it stands what I did was only back the screws out 2 turns instead of 2.5-3 to see if that would help lean things out a bit.

Anyways guys, thanks for all your help. If anyone in the phoenix area needs help with the shotgun, let me know. Its easier than it reads.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5poHWzSOgYQ
 

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well the trick is alwasy to go as lean as possible until u feel negative surging etc then go one size richer on everything.

you could shim the needle some, but we need to know WHERE you are running rich? do u have a dyno in the area u could goto. a $50 3-pull session (one at slightly over cruise throttle, 1/2 throttle and full throttle could give us real good ideas) would eliminate a lot of guess work. also read some of the carb stuff as it gives some basic needle tests.
 
Hey Legion:

See my post in Kozy's "Rejetting for a new elevation" thread in the "Carb/Tuning" forum". I'm in Peoria AZ (same elevation as you) and was haing the same problems as you. I fixed it, and bike is a killer now!

Also, in your picture of the mixture screw, you're missing the rubber washer after the steel washer...check in the mixture screw receiver port to locate it!

Elimax
 
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