Cold hand solution

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JJvmax

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Does anyone know of any brand hand guards that would fit 1993 VMAX1200 with stock handlebar? Or better yet a recommendation for heated gloves with rechargeable battery. I ride in 40 degree weather and the tips of my fingers go numb after about an hour when wearing thick gloves. Would buy if they really help and under $200.
 
What about maybe trying something that will fit a snowmobile?? I know they offer guards for the hand controls and maybe a set of heated gloves.
 
I remember those Hippo Hands. Ugly but no doubt functional.

One thing I have found is that nylon (or other similar material) liner gloves inside your "main" gloves works wonders. For me, it's the sweating under the glove that makes my hands cold. The liner eliminates that for me.
 
I have heated gloves / heated liners that plug into my heated vest had heated grips on my BMWs & hippo hands I like good set of mittens rather then plugging that stuff in & if you have metal grips get rid of them
 
The hippo hands are awsome.I use to run them on my atv. I could ride all day.on frozen creeks,rivers.
At temps near zero. And hands were always warm.
But you wear gloves .inside the hippo hand.
 
The same as Desert_Max above, I use liner gloves for the same reason.
At one time I used silk liners, and they were very good, but now I use musicians gloves as you do not lose sensitivity from hand to throttle etc. Plus you can I suppose use them for playing guitar too!
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This was my solution:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T6IX42S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I wired them up an rode into work this morning in about 40 degrees Fahrenheit, my commute isn't very long (25 minutes) but my fingers are not numb when I get to work! It was pretty easy to get the stock grips off, just a squirt of WD40 under them after twisting off the ends by hand and they twisted and slid right off. Shot some hairspray (don't tell my wife I'm using her products) on the bare bar after cleaning off any WD40 and then twisted the grips into place. I opted for the 30mm version which once installed doesn't utilize the stock bar ends. The company makes a 20mm version which would leave room for the stock bar ends to be reinstalled if one were so inclined. The grips are nice and grippy and get pretty warm (I haven't used the max setting yet) they also look pretty good on the bike and the integrated controls make for a clean installation. I wired them directly to the battery for the interim, but will probably figure out a wire to tap that isn't constantly on so that they turn on and off with the key.
 
This was my solution:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T6IX42S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I wired them up an rode into work this morning in about 40 degrees Fahrenheit, my commute isn't very long (25 minutes) but my fingers are not numb when I get to work! It was pretty easy to get the stock grips off, just a squirt of WD40 under them after twisting off the ends by hand and they twisted and slid right off. Shot some hairspray (don't tell my wife I'm using her products) on the bare bar after cleaning off any WD40 and then twisted the grips into place. I opted for the 30mm version which once installed doesn't utilize the stock bar ends. The company makes a 20mm version which would leave room for the stock bar ends to be reinstalled if one were so inclined. The grips are nice and grippy and get pretty warm (I haven't used the max setting yet) they also look pretty good on the bike and the integrated controls make for a clean installation. I wired them directly to the battery for the interim, but will probably figure out a wire to tap that isn't constantly on so that they turn on and off with the key.
I hope that you have that electrical connection fused! It should be very easy to have them operate off the key. That way, you won't forget to turn 'em-off, and return to a run-down battery. Look at Eastern Beaver for all-sorts of connectors, fuse blocks, and other wire needs, they have great products. Adding a jumper to the battery for re-charging is a good idea, but since it's likely un-fused, you have to be very careful about routing and use. Home (easternbeaver.com)
 
I hope that you have that electrical connection fused! It should be very easy to have them operate off the key. That way, you won't forget to turn 'em-off, and return to a run-down battery. Look at Eastern Beaver for all-sorts of connectors, fuse blocks, and other wire needs, they have great products. Adding a jumper to the battery for re-charging is a good idea, but since it's likely un-fused, you have to be very careful about routing and use. Home (easternbeaver.com)
They actually have a 4amp fuse built into the unit, but I wired in another 7.5amp fuse during installation. I wasn't in a hurry to take too much bodywork off the bike last night during the install, so I just went the direct route to the battery (well the solenoid) I already have an SAE pigtail off of the battery, which I upgraded to a Shorai during the install of the handgrips. The bike fired up immediately this morning as opposed to the slightly slower and longer cranking with the old battery. I think I will be going to COPS pretty soon, I'm trying to wring out any bits that might be unreliable before a multiday trip I have planned this summer.
 
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