Complete carb rebuild guide for noob?

[one2dmax]

Here's a pic of the last 1500 we built for a customer. Plug is circled.

Sean

 

[maleko89]

You got it. The big hex plug.

 

[rebar]

BTW. I did get a quote of $500 to rebuild my carbs and get them back on and running in one day. Im tempted. How long would it take a beginner like me stumbling through the clymer manual?

 

[rebar]

Here's a pic of the last 1500 we built for a customer. Plug is circled.

Sean

Nice. Know what threads those are for the fitting I will need?

 

[one2dmax]

Not sure. It's beefy enough to drill and tap it for any fitting you want or I think there is a direct fit plug that kawasaki makes that is already drilled and tapped.

I'm really not sure if you need to go to this extreme but it won't hurt either. You could even remove the oil filter and get an AN fitting and pressurize from that area too. There are two holes under the filter - one is in and the other goes out and delivers to the distribution pipe which sends oil everywhere. Drian the pain and you could fill it through that method. I may have to come up with something to do that on the new engines we build.


Sean

 

[rebar]

My cycle parts outlet had no idea about the kaw plug. Maybe I will drill and tap mine for a pressure gauge.

 

[82ndCowboy]

Here's a pic of the last 1500 we built for a customer. Plug is circled.

Sean

I want to know how you got those valve covers so shinny????

 

[Buster Hymen]

My cycle parts outlet had no idea about the kaw plug. Maybe I will drill and tap mine for a pressure gauge.

There is a part number for the Kawi plug, I'll see if I can find it for you.

 

[hubeerjw]

BTW. I did get a quote of $500 to rebuild my carbs and get them back on and running in one day. Im tempted. How long would it take a beginner like me stumbling through the clymer manual?

Don't spend $500!!!! I'm actually going through my 85 carbs now. I am basically removing one at a time and going through them individually. If you want, bring them down this weekend and we can go through them (or at least one) then you can do the rest. Let me know if you are interested 319-461-8969
Jeff

 

[one2dmax]

I want to know how you got those valve covers so shinny????

Chrome! They are some of the more expensive items we offer but look nice.

Sean

 

[rebar]

Don't spend $500!!!! I am basically removing one at a time and going through them individually. If you want, bring them down this weekend and we can go through them (or at least one) then you can do the rest. Let me know if you are interested 319-461-8969
Jeff

Didnt know you could remove one at a time.

I work weekends during the fall. Thanks for the offer though. The 500 was installed, synced and running. But your right. Iv got the time. Its the patients I question.

 

[maleko89]

You have to remove the whole bank before you separate carbs. I break into pairs and then work a pair at a time. You only need to break into individuals if you are servicing the coasting enricheners or replacing a carb.

 

[rebar]

I need advice on how to free up stuck vacuum piston/sliders. They wont budge and have been dry for years. I have the carb soaking in WD40 right now. What else can I do to get them moving?

Should I put the diaphragm covers back on and keep shooting the sliders with harsher carb cleaner? Iv read heating can loosen them up.

 

[maleko89]

Wow, never seen that happen before. Try PB Blaster? Spray and let soak like you're been doing.

 

[rebar]

Thanks. I just bought some PB blaster. Never used it. Is it safe on the diaphragms? Glad I didn't use the carb cleaner on the diaphragms. :confused2:didn't know..

I'm tempted to pry on them but Iv only used my fingers.

Would heating the carb body with a heat gun be a option? Or is the risk of deforming the plastic piston to high?

I hope this isn't a indication of how smoothly this rebuild is going to go.:bang head:

 

[maleko89]

I'm not sure about diaphragms. I assumed the slides were trashed since stuck. Try carefully squirting it from the inside and avoid spraying directly on the diaphragm.

I would be careful using a heat gun...especially if fuel is present.

 

[rebar]

the anticipation is wearin thin.

So you feel the pistons/diaphragms are toast being stuck as bad as they are?

On a positive note. I dropped the battery in last night. Good thing I manualy opened the V-boost cuz it was stuck. Flipped the switch and heard the Vboost whir. Added a squirt of oil to all cylinders and pumped the oil system up and turned it over. Sounded smooth.unk:

 

[maleko89]

Rebar, not necessarily. Once you get them out use a fine emery cloth and carefully clean them up. I use WD40 to clean.

 

[rebar]

I still havent had any luck getting the pistons/diaphragms unstuck. I was told to use a old crock pot on low with a antifreeze bath. I found the crock pot. But is antifreeze safe on the diaphragms ? Or should I use the WD40 bath to be safe?


Oh. I was told this stuff is better than PB blaster.
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=612http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_li...dCategory= 41

Anyone try that stuff?

And another fellow suggested this..

" You should be able to remove float bowls, unscrew the main jet and then push the needle jet tube out towards the slide side. This will push the slides from the under side and if they are going to move at all ? ... this should do the trick ?

Not sure in your case tho, if these carbs have slip in or pressed in needle jet tubes ?"

I have to look into that.

Thanks for any suggestions

 

[maleko89]

The main jet insn't over the needle or needle jet. There's a brass screw holding the needle jet on. You could look under that to see if you needle is binding in the jet. Even better, remove plastic needle screw within slide and remove needle. It's starting to sound like you will have to destroy slides to get 'em out.