Considering Kosman 18" Rear, 19" Front

[gamorg02]

I need to remove the drive assembly from the cush rubbers on my rear wheel before I bring it to the powder coaters. I've never done his before. Do you just pry them out? Thanks in advance for any advice on this.

They can stay in. They will hold up fine. Just check the inner metal bushings afterwards, they may get loose need to be epoxied back to the rubber.

 

[fltinstructor]

There is a snap ring holding it in. Remove it and it will come out.

 

[gamorg02]

There is a snap ring holding it in. Remove it and it will come out.

ah yes this if its the cush assembly. if you mean the 6 rubber bushings pressed into the wheel, those don't need to.

 

[Glen007]

Thanks for the help. I plan on leaving the cush rubbers in but need to get the assembly off before powder coating. I read a prior thread on powder coating and it seems that the cush rubbers can stay but everything else is removed. I plan on borrowing a blind bearing remover and buying a set of snap ring pliers tomorrow. I'm guessing the snap ring is the one I'm pointing to in the picture..? If all goes well I'll be dropping my wheels of for powder coating Wednesday.

 

[one2dmax]

That's the one. Remove it and pull/pry the whole assembly off at one time.

 

[gamorg02]

that'll do it.

i took apart a rim earlier this year that it took me 20 minutes to pry the thing out. penetrating spray if the fingers are rusted in will be your friend. take your time, do it right.

 

[Glen007]

Thanks for all the help. I got the cush assembly off easily after removing the snap ring. I removed the right side bearing using a pilot bearing puller with hammer slide, but was unable to remove the outer race of the needle roller bearing on the left/drive side (needles and cage came out easily). I actually ended up breaking one of the small expanding arms of the pilot bearing puller. I'm going to track down a proper blind bearing remover with slide and see if that works.

 

[gamorg02]

Thanks for all the help. I got the cush assembly off easily after removing the snap ring. I removed the right side bearing using a pilot bearing puller with hammer slide, but was unable to remove the outer race of the needle roller bearing on the left/drive side (needles and cage came out easily). I actually ended up breaking one of the small expanding arms of the pilot bearing puller. I'm going to track down a proper blind bearing remover with slide and see if that works.

yea no way that ones gonna work. the HF one i have worked fine, can probably rent a very similar tool from autozone/etc.

 

[[email protected]]

If I'm removing bearings I use the free tool loaner program at my local autozone. What I use is similar to this.

It works great on the needle bearings on the rear wheel. I've also used it on the pinion bearing in the differential, and multiple bearings on my CR5 such as the clutch actuator arm, shift drum, and transmission mainshaft bearings.

 

[gamorg02]

exactly, usually coupons for it @ HF for half off:

http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

 

[Glen007]

SUCCESS!!!!! I borrowed a Blind Bearing Puller from Autozone. Holy crap was that in there tight. Now on to the powder coaters. I've been able to avoid mechanics fees for some time now through the help I get here. Thanks guys!

 

[gamorg02]

SUCCESS!!!!! I borrowed a Blind Bearing Puller from Autozone. Holy crap was that in there tight. Now on to the powder coaters. I've been able to avoid mechanics fees for some time now through the help I get here. Thanks guys!


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that'll do it! once it gets started its easy you can get the notch behind it.

on my '85 wheel there were 4 notches cut for what looked like a punch to get access but it didn't do a damn thing. i spent probably 20 minutes with the puller as tight as it could to get it started so i could get the teeth behind it.

with a big enough collet i wonder if this would work. I just picked it up for regular wheel bearings and the collets that come with it are for Inner race sizes: