Hell...I need to change mine due to the paint chips....
I think if you look close you will find the paint is shrinking away from the elbow....I thought it was stone chips too but....then realized the rest of the bike isn't all speckled! :blink000:
Hell...I need to change mine due to the paint chips....
I think if you look close you will find the paint is shrinking away from the elbow....I thought it was stone chips too but....then realized the rest of the bike isn't all speckled! :blink000:
Mine did too..have to tighten the nuts a bit to get it to stopDo the o-rings have to be a yamaha part? Mine has a slow leak from this elbow..
This is made with 2 parts that are threaded into each other Todd. but i think that for a fine craftsmanship dude like you you already had noticed that.
Nice see through valve covers larry. Lol.
Also, what coolant is everyone using that is RED? To swap to the RED coolant, is a typical water flush sufficient or is there a process to properly flush out the old coolant?
Toyota (expensive stuff)
Also, what coolant is everyone using that is RED? To swap to the RED coolant, is a typical water flush sufficient or is there a process to properly flush out the old coolant?
A proper flush with water should do the trick. I do it a few times in a row. Warm the bike, empty it, fill with water and warm it up, empty it, fill it a third time, empty it. Fill with antifreeze and warm it up and top off the level.
I use distilled water to flush. Vinegar and water is a good cleaner but I don't use it unless I see signs of crud. If you use vinegar be sure to flush with clean water afterwards. The whole process doesn't take long. I leave the rad cap off so the bikes heats faster and builds no pressure. I drain from the water pump and pop the hoses of the drain valve.
+1, mostly how I do it.
I run the pump drain plug open and keep a continual flow of water with a hose into the open cap and just let'er rip.
If you have a thermometer that's accurate it's also a good time to check at what temp the T-stat is opening by sticking it in the open cap area.
You do this after you've closed the valve and installed the water pump drain plug and filled it with you preferred mix of coolant.
Distiller water with your coolant product really is the only way to go on an aluminum motor.
You can tell when it opens by the behavior of the water flow.
I will add that personally I will NEVER again use any "Flush" product. Used it several times years past and every single time ended up with some sort of seal, o-ring, or gasket failure in short order.
I think they are just too "strong",...perhaps acidic or corrosive in an effort to "cut" buildup???
Ok, where is the water pump drain plug? Is this the hose thats on the bottom front of the bike with the turn valve? Which way with that means what? Also, if I use that Toyota prediluted 50/50 mixture, there is no need to mix in distilled water since its predilluted. When you flush, do you just flush with tap water and not distilled water? From the sounds of it your flushing with the garden hose instead of distilled water? Why would you put garden hose water in if your only supposed to be using distilled water when you dilute the solutuion (if necessary)?
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