Copper gaskets

[Screwloose]

That’s brill - many thanks. I would like the details of the chap you mentioned. I’m sort of between Bridgend and Cardiff, close to the M4 (jct 34) so Stroud is certainly do-able. I work away from home two weeks-about so my weekends are precious - if I can get some outside help here I don’t mind paying the cost of two days van rental to get it sorted. Many thanks once again.

That’s not too far, I’m a contractor and worked in Bristol for a good while.

GYDYNAP, your in luck as this garage even sounds Welsh!

Simon works/owns this MOT station, if he cannot help you directly there is a very good chance he will know someone that is good at this kind of work. He knows everyone in Stroud and surrounding, and there are some good people there that are bike enthusiasts.

Good luck mate. If you can stretch to Glasgow I’ll fix it lol.

 

[gentsvmax]

Permatex Ultra Copper! Let it set-up as per instruction.

 

[Screwloose]

That’s brill - many thanks. I would like the details of the chap you mentioned. I’m sort of between Bridgend and Cardiff, close to the M4 (jct 34) so Stroud is certainly do-able. I work away from home two weeks-about so my weekends are precious - if I can get some outside help here I don’t mind paying the cost of two days van rental to get it sorted. Many thanks once again.

I was just thinking, it was either Simon or Steve that was the biker, can’t remember, but in any case it’s worth a try.

 

[kai_Zna]

Not exactly about fitting the OEM exhaust, but I see there is also lot of exhaust competence in this forum. I recognize the challenges of assembly when I installed my OEM silencer. Keeping everything loose until it was fitted did the trick to me. I replaced Cobra 4-4 pipes with a perfect OEM silencer, no rust or dents at all. It followed the bike, and it looks new. The problem is a very annoying sound at certain RPM's. I am sure it is from vibrating heat shields, getting in contact at certain rpms. But I have not been sucessful in finding the exact location, and correct it. Any tips on how to proceed?

 

[Screwloose]

Not exactly about fitting the OEM exhaust, but I see there is also lot of exhaust competence in this forum. I recognize the challenges of assembly when I installed my OEM silencer. Keeping everything loose until it was fitted did the trick to me. I replaced Cobra 4-4 pipes with a perfect OEM silencer, no rust or dents at all. It followed the bike, and it looks new. The problem is a very annoying sound at certain RPM's. I am sure it is from vibrating heat shields, getting in contact at certain rpms. But I have not been sucessful in finding the exact location, and correct it. Any tips on how to proceed?

Unfortunately our friend Nibsy has bought a slightly short exhaust, i know cause i bought a short one also, and the graphite seals get torn up trying to get it fitted and clamped. I’ve fitted many exhausts on cars and bikes and Nibsy is up against it with this one as he cannot get height either. Yes you keep everything loose if you can, and tighten only when you know its not hitting anywhere it should not, or you get a rumble through the vehicle, sometimes at startup and at certain rpm’s.

I got rattling from the heat shields just below your feet, and pushed pencil erasers under them, okay now! I’ve always found it very difficult to find rattles on vehicles, especially when you only get them when moving. I could suggest stupid things to try that drunk people say around camp fires, but it would be interesting if someone had a routine for this.

 

[Fire-medic]

Not exactly about fitting the OEM exhaust, but I see there is also lot of exhaust competence in this forum. I recognize the challenges of assembly when I installed my OEM silencer. Keeping everything loose until it was fitted did the trick to me. I replaced Cobra 4-4 pipes with a perfect OEM silencer, no rust or dents at all. It followed the bike, and it looks new. The problem is a very annoying sound at certain RPM's. I am sure it is from vibrating heat shields, getting in contact at certain rpms. But I have not been sucessful in finding the exact location, and correct it. Any tips on how to proceed?

I want to raise a couple of things.

Yes to 'keeping things loose until it was fitted' so connections can be made properly. That's what I suggested earlier.

Next, please inform us about your riding impressions post Cobra 4-into-4 removal. Topics to be mentioned: throttle response, jetting changes (did you check for them, what did you find, if you did, and what were they changed-to?) seat-of-the-pants riding impressions, VBoost function pre/post-operation, and any other relevant material. "Inquiring minds want to-know."

My experience is that the vanity collars at the points of attachment for the rear cylinders are not very-robust in their screws' dimensions, and I've not-attempted a re-fit of them.

About vibrating heat shields, all I could suggest is examining for contact where there shouldn't be-any, and perhaps a bit of cold-setting to gain clearances, or a bit of filing/grinding may-be indicated, if re-positioning of components doesn't achieve the non-interference/silence you seek.

The OEM headers are supposed to be double-walled, and in older bikes if the pipes have a broken/rusted weld holding them , one fix is putting an inconspicuous dent into them wherever the pipes seem to be resonating. It appears something like that may-not be your issue, as you have scored a 'in-good-shape' OEM system for installation (barring a manufacturing defect).

(88) Stock exhaust replacement | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

 

[Stephan]

The graphite seals are delicate and expensive. As you say very difficult to assemble the system without destroying them. I just used silicone sealant. You can use as much as you like, it works fine, seals well, is not affected by heat and costs next to nothing.

 

[Screwloose]

The graphite seals are delicate and expensive. As you say very difficult to assemble the system without destroying them. I just used silicone sealant. You can use as much as you like, it works fine, seals well, is not affected by heat and costs next to nothing.

I had to permanently assemble parts of the system to stop the short pipes falling out, then gradually work the system together. This aftermarket crap short downpipes system will not go together loosely, then finally tighten at the end. I hope Nibsy reads this, if his downpipes are the same as mine he will need to whack them into the engine with a rubber mallet as the pipes also have a slight twist that puts them out of alignment at the header, and the way I got this system on was to leave the front header pipes insertion to last (but obviously before rear). The graphite seals just get torn up with the looseness and misalignment. My crap new chrome pipes have big dents at the front from me whacking them in . If I could reverse time and had to do the job again I would have salvaged the old mesh seals and used exhaust paste or silicon as you say. Just to add I use a high temp insulating silicon on many mech and elec jobs, Dow Corning 3145 RTV (room temp vulcanised rubber), you could bond an elephant to a battleship with this stuff.

 

[Nibsy]

That’s not too far, I’m a contractor and worked in Bristol for a good while.

GYDYNAP, your in luck as this garage even sounds Welsh!

Simon works/owns this MOT station, if he cannot help you directly there is a very good chance he will know someone that is good at this kind of work. He knows everyone in Stroud and surrounding, and there are some good people there that are bike enthusiasts.

Good luck mate. If you can stretch to Glasgow I’ll fix it lol.

Many thanks.