correct Carb hose diagram

[Fire-medic]

'Waste' being a repetitive concern of yours, evidently. Why don't you say something righteous and hopeful, for a change?

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

'Waste' being a repetitive concern of yours, evidently. Why don't you say something righteous and hopeful, for a change?

I'm not really "righteous" as you assume- as far as hopeful the change is within yourself for satisfaction. I'm more about posting advice that will help members instead of looking for ways to cut them down---my info for heating a hose instead of trying to remove it while hard was to help members that were taking their own carbs apart---you seem to think it was a personal attack-not so. If I don't prefer the Vmax ads you think I'm interested in then keep it to yourself. I make it a habit never to criticize anothers bike wether it be lawn furniture or for sale.

 

[gavicool]

I'm not really "righteous" as you assume- as far as hopeful the change is within yourself for satisfaction. I'm more about posting advice that will help members instead of looking for ways to cut them down---my info for heating a hose instead of trying to remove it while hard was to help members that were taking their own carbs apart---you seem to think it was a personal attack-not so. If I don't prefer the Vmax ads you think I'm interested in then keep it to yourself. I make it a habit never to criticize anothers bike wether it be lawn furniture or for sale.

Sorry 99YamahaVmax,I´m with Fire-medic..it is a very good good recomendation of replacement,is it expensive?,well..it´s a fuel line...it is just an opinion..

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

Sorry 99YamahaVmax,I´m with Fire-medic..it is a very good good recomendation of replacement,is it expensive?,well..it´s a fuel line...it is just an opinion..

No need to apologize- I agree with Dannymax

 

[Sniffbooger]

+2 for dannymax

Always take pics, lots of pics, before starting and along the way.

Anyone trying to work on their carb rack, should always buy the T-hose before starting work, and I like to have on-hand the K&N 18-2879 kits, four of 'em, for the jet block gasket first, and the other pieces. The molded T-hose is usually original to the bike, and will not stay intact when you attempt its removal.

View attachment 89771View attachment 89772
View attachment 89773
Yamaha's explanation of cyl placement. What dannymax said. An easy way to remember: print the capital letter, 'N.' FYI, I know of no one who would start at the right-top to do that, so if you're that one person, don't.

I keep on-hand one of those Harbor Freight plastic boxes of O-rings, I keep the red box. You can usually find a match to get you out of a pinch, but I do buy the OEM Yamaha o-rings when I need 'em.

That's a K&L kit, not K&N...just a small typo, but I figured it out when I zoomed in on the picture of the package...no biggie!

Those look like better quality jet block gaskets that are not the rubber ones... because I've already changed a couple sets messing with my carbs...when the California gas with high ethanol content touches the cheap rubber jet block gaskets they swell up like fat little piggies and can't be re-used if removed...I hate them...can you confirm the K&L jet block gaskets are not rubber??

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

That's a K&L kit, not K&N...just a small typo, but I figured it out when I zoomed in on the picture of the package...no biggie!

Those look like better quality jet block gaskets that are not the rubber ones... because I've already changed a couple sets messing with my carbs...when the California gas with high ethanol content touches the cheap rubber jet block gaskets they swell up like fat little piggies and can't be re-used if removed...I hate them...can you confirm the K&L jet block gaskets are not rubber??

K&L not rubber.

 

[Fire-medic]

That's a K&L kit, not K&N...just a small typo, but I figured it out when I zoomed in on the picture of the package...no biggie!

Those look like better quality jet block gaskets that are not the rubber ones... because I've already changed a couple sets messing with my carbs...when the California gas with high ethanol content touches the cheap rubber jet block gaskets they swell up like fat little piggies and can't be re-used if removed...I hate them...can you confirm the K&L jet block gaskets are not rubber??

K&N 18-2879 kits, thanks for proofreading it. Yes, K & L. I've used that pic often enough that my fat fingers should know their way around the keyboard, but that one got me caught-out.

 

[Brett unsupervised]

dannymax: what does the port circled in red connect to -- I cant find any pictures or diagrams with it connected to anything or even labeled

update: Doh!! nevermind ... Im an idot ... fuel has to come from somewhere

View attachment 89770

dannymax -- sorry to bother you again -- below are my carbs -- I assess the perviouse owners "carb rebuilder" may have had questionable knowledge or may have not put all the parts back in the same carb they came off of. note what I believer are the float overflow ports seem to be Backward in the front. additionally the one of the #1 carb points inward and thus the tube can not clear the wire bracket which stabilizes the fuel line. Im not sure what is going on. so quesiton is, can these ports be turned? I sukspect they are pressed in, I tried a little pressure but they don't seem to want to turn and I dont want to try to force them and end up with them crimped... 1) can they just be turned in place? 2) do I need to pull the whole carb set up and play musical floats until they are aligned? mental gymnastics indicated I move 1>>2, then 2>>4 and 4>>1 assuming the float housings are all the same part number. previouse owner just had left off the overflow tubes and was running it as you see here. Is pulling the carbs a nightmare ... I used to pull holly 1 barrels off a 225 slant 6 in the 70s, this looks a bit more daunting. I also noted that some of the screws in the float housing don't even match ... one is some type of thumb screw ... ugh!!

 

[dannymax]

They aren't float chamber overflow although can act as such if a float sticks.
They are float chamber vent ports, refer to my photo for the correct orientation.
The hoses go to brackets attached on the airbox at the ends of the 'Y' section.
Yes the carbs need removed to correct this situation.
The rear ports point to the outside, the front ones point to the inside.
Don't turn them in place, the ends are splined.
Your fix is correct
#4 to #1
#2 to #4
#1 to#2
#3 is correct

PM sent

 

[Brett unsupervised]

They aren't float chamber overflow although can act as such if a float sticks.
They are float chamber vent ports, refer to my photo for the correct orientation.
The hoses go to brackets attached on the airbox at the ends of the 'Y' section.
Yes the carbs need removed to correct this situation.
The rear ports point to the outside, the front ones point to the inside.
Don't turn them in place, the ends are splined.
Your fix is correct
#4 to #1
#2 to #4
#1 to#2
#3 is correct

PM sent

Thank you again. appreciate the help

 

[marciofm]

View attachment 89770

Hi Danny,

I was wondering if you could help me out…

I have a 93 VMAX that has been doing great for all these years, I bought it back in 97.

Apparently the ethanol has done its thing… after 3-4 months without starting it the carbs became really bad, first the gas would pour from the breathing hose, after blowing some carb cleaner and air to it, it stopped. But it was running really bad.

So, I decided to take them apart for a complete cleaning.

First I separated carbs 1 and 2 from 3 and 4, than separated 3 from 4.

When I was separating 1 from 2, when it came apart, the 2 washers showed on the picture attached drop to the bench and I cannot figure it out where they came from!

They showed up when I separated the springs.

Do you have any idea?

Thanks !

 

[one2dmax]

Looks like the some of the washer stack used in the choke lever. That uses multiple washers to function correctly.

 

[marciofm]

Looks like the some of the washer stack used in the choke lever. That uses multiple washers to function correctly.

I thought so. Same pair in the other side of the choke lever. Definitely stayed connected to the carb body when I disassembled and fell afterwards.

I am waiting for some parts to arrive before start reassembling. Let's see how it goes...

Thank you for your reply!

 

[one2dmax]

You can sort of make out the screw washer stack. Starting from the left to the right:
Screw - Spring - metal washer with larger hole - plastic washer - lever - plastic washer - metal washer with small hole - carb body