Das nightmare has returned lol

[DigitalArts]

Where can I find the tank vent? I suspect that afree fuel delivery is dealt with things will get much much better.

There are many times when it will run flawlessly (when I first hop on the road) but then things go downhill.

What I don't think the fuel delivery will fix is the fact that I can cruise at whatever rpm between 3-8k and when I go to accelerate, I'll twist the throttle a lot and it'll sound like it's bogging down but then if I continue to twist *slowly so that AP isn't a factor* (sometimes it doesn't make it this far) it will instantly have the correct amount of power for the rpm it bogged down to and will accelerate normally from there.

 

[jagco1]

Like some 1 said, check gas filter, check gas tank for rust, Your floats could be sticking dumping gas in the motor. dirty carbs OR CARB CLEANING.... like said before


These carbs can run off the stock fuel pump with no problems

I had setup on gs1100 sold this bike, and on the kz1000 then pull them and went with setup of Mikuni.


Hop online search for how to take them part type in your carb model, 2nd take pictures of every step so you no how everything go's back. picture of them on the bike and pulling them apart.

they work almost the same as yours. there no fuel pump here on the kz1000 flows right down from the gas tank.

I just think carb cleaning just me mind you. When you pull the float bowls off you can sometime mess up the gaskets, but you can order new gaskets

 

[jagco1]

Tank vent on top of the gas tank small hose.

post pics of the carbs on the bike.

The shop up the street they have built few fast drag bikes.

 

[jagco1]

parts info



http://www.sudco.com/keihin.html

 

[jethrobolas]

Edit... deleted. I was not being helpful. Sorry jagco. ..didn't have anything to do with your post.

 

[jagco1]

Edit... deleted. Not being helpful.

Not sure if this about me, but the info i added in think it was very helpful to the guy.

 

[Itgoes]

Couple of things....

Even with a perfectly tuned UFO flatside setup the bike will fall on it's face if you go WOT anywhere below 4K rpm or so. You need to roll-on the throttle down low.

That being said I don't think that is your only problem with the way the bike is responding, but you should understand this so your expectations are accurate.

You really need to get the electrical straightened out, and change the plugs as others have suggested.... first. Just so you know that it's not contributing to the problem.

Also, You need to mechanically sync the carbs. That is adjust each slide opening to be equal, You can do that easily by using a drill bit as a gauge.

You may very well have 1 cylinder not running intermittently. One way to maybe determine which one is the problem would to be start the engine cold and let it run at idle or whatever minimum rpm it will run at for 15-30 seconds. Then shutoff the bike and check the temperature of each cylinders header pipe. If one is cold or a lot colder than the rest that's the cylinder/carb/plug/coil to concentrate on.

 

[DigitalArts]

Couple of things....

Even with a perfectly tuned UFO flatside setup the bike will fall on it's face if you go WOT anywhere below 4K rpm or so. You need to roll-on the throttle down low.

That being said I don't think that is your only problem with the way the bike is responding, but you should understand this so your expectations are accurate.

You really need to get the electrical straightened out, and change the plugs as others have suggested.... first. Just so you know that it's not contributing to the problem.

Also, You need to mechanically sync the carbs. That is adjust each slide opening to be equal, You can do that easily by using a drill bit as a gauge.

You may very well have 1 cylinder not running intermittently. One way to maybe determine which one is the problem would to be start the engine cold and let it run at idle or whatever minimum rpm it will run at for 15-30 seconds. Then shutoff the bike and check the temperature of each cylinders header pipe. If one is cold or a lot colder than the rest that's the cylinder/carb/plug/coil to concentrate on.

It falls on its face from slowly rolling at 4k, nothing close to wot.

I will change the spark plugs this weekend along with the new apex battery that should be on the way.

What size drill bit should I use with a 1k rpm idle? If I had to guess I'd say the slide shows an 1/8th inch gap currently

I'll test for the faulty cylinder tonight

Thanks!

 

[wayne z]

I don't think gaging them mechanicly at idle setting will be very easy or accurate. Set the sync in a usable throttle range. Don't get much use at idle LOL.

Open and fix throttle somewhere around 1/3 throttle would be where the engine is running around cruise power, and the larger opening like around 1/4" or more will be easy to acuratly gage.

 

[Itgoes]

I don't think gaging them mechanicly at idle setting will be very easy or accurate. Set the sync in a usable throttle range. Don't get much use at idle LOL.

Open and fix throttle somewhere around 1/3 throttle would be where the engine is running around cruise power, and the larger opening like around 1/4" or more will be easy to acuratly gage.

Nope. This is done with the engine off.

These are mechanical carbs. The slides need to be equal with the throttle closed because they will open at the same rate and be unequal at all throttle openings if they are off.

Without that first simple adjustment being made you'll never get them right.

 

[wayne z]

Of course engine off for mechanical guaging, common sense would dictate that LOL, But I have noticed when using my mercury manometer on my Vmax that the sync settings are quite different at idle and 3000 rpm. Sync at idle causes smoother idle, but sync at 3000 is more realistic and practical to me.

 

[Itgoes]

It falls on its face from slowly rolling at 4k, nothing close to wot.

I will change the spark plugs this weekend along with the new apex battery that should be on the way.

What size drill bit should I use with a 1k rpm idle? If I had to guess I'd say the slide shows an 1/8th inch gap currently

I'll test for the faulty cylinder tonight

Thanks!

The most important thing is that they are equal......If I remember correctly it was like a size 76 or 78 drill bit...a small bit. A 1/64" or 1/32" would work in a pinch just to get them even.

This won't fix a horrible running engine, but it is one more step in the right direction and absolutely necessary for making the it run smoooooth.

 

[wayne z]

When the throttle is closed there is no throttle cable influence, each carb has it's own adjustable stop, which are never exact venturi openings from one carb to the next to get good sync readings at idle. The sync needs to be set with the throttle cable holding the
throttles open, not the idle stops, for best accuracy and engine efficency in a usable throttle range, instead of the idle stops.

 

[invalidsession]

I have yet to read a post where the user/s of these carburettors has anything positive to say as regards the day to day running reliability of this set up. For the track, I get it but for every day reliability ? I have serious concerns. Covers for rain ingress etc. What a major PITA and to gain what ? Kudos down at the local Barbie and Ken bike meet ? **** that. Slapping big carbs on any engine still requires flowing the valve accomodation and the correct back pressure at the exhaust. Big HP comes at a price, and it's rarely cheap.



Chris.

 

[Itgoes]

I have yet to read a post where the user/s of these carburettors has anything positive to say as regards the day to day running reliability of this set up. For the track, I get it but for every day reliability ? I have serious concerns. Covers for rain ingress etc. What a major PITA and to gain what ? Kudos down at the local Barbie and Ken bike meet ? **** that. Slapping big carbs on any engine still requires flowing the valve accomodation and the correct back pressure at the exhaust. Big HP comes at a price, and it's rarely cheap.



Chris.

I had VGas on my 98 and it worked perfectly. Ran it with filters and it made 123 HP and 80 lbs of TQ.

That being said, I bought the bike with the carbs installed, I would have never spent that kind of money because it is poor bang-for-the-buck. A Morley Muscle kit is a much better investment from all I've heard about it.

Flat slides do work very good however when setup correctly. Midrange response and power way better than stock carbs and peak HP a little better than stage 7.

 

[DigitalArts]

Yea I'm considering trading these for a Morley's set up with Vboost. I need to get the electric and fuel pump/filter/lines dealt with first, though.

 

[marsmax85]

pm sent

 

[Itgoes]

After much searching on the web I found this write up.

LOTS of very good information, AND it explains the drill bit sync procedure......


http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_FCR_Burns,Pat.html

 

[jagco1]

These carbs has to be clean, I went to see the bike 2 weeks before it was sold.
These carbs will work find off a stock fuel pump, or gravity flow with tank above the carbs and no fuel pump. Had 2 sets before i switch to milkuni carbs.

The bike was dirty it has been sitting, gas in tank look a little orange in color.
The seller told me before I got there the bike was running good, when i got there the bike would not run right or idle. I was there to buy it but did not get good feel for the seller, we had words not so nice because he told me the bike was running good I could drive it away or any where.

If it was me, I tried to get your dad to help, save some money / go up to the shop up the street from the school take pictures so they can see what you have. just stop up there. They are pass the burger king on the right.

Even late them no your money is low they may help... and see what they say and charge.

switch out the carbs may be a good thing. but if this was me have the carbs/bike check 1st... if you can.

The shop is hp type shop...

 

[marsmax85]

I have a vehicle here for the cheap while m/c gets some work done you have my number.