DDM Tuning HID Install

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Originally Posted by VMax-Mike
I was told that high beam is no brighter than the low beam.

But usually it's not about the brightness, but the range, right? I always thought that low beam used only the top half of the reflector in order not to blind oncoming traffic, while high beam uses the whole reflector to see as far as possible.

It's why I've always wondered about the HID upgrades, as they're supposed to include a HID reflector to make full use of the technology - HID bulbs supposedly not being compatible with non-HID reflectors.

Ur totally right. That's how are behaving my projectors. Same bulbs but different projectors and so different range and pattern.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
 
Anyone have ideas where I should start the search to fix this issue? It's near 70's here this week and I wanna ride! lol

Main fuse is good, all fuses under faux tank are good. Put tester on all of them, grounds are good as well. Inline fuse on HID power wire is good as well. Only 2 things that aren't working are the headlight and the gauge lights.

The gauge lights are on the same circuit as the taillight, and the front running lights. Are they still working? If so......
post a diagram of your HID installation modification. Might clue someone in as to what the problem(s) is.
Cheers!
 
Sticky starter button it was. Lol sure makes me feel a little sheepish! Haha
 
Sticky starter button it was. Lol sure makes me feel a little sheepish! Haha

That pesky starter button has been the source of lots of electrical problems lately, for different forum members.
Think I'm gonna go lubricate mine, right now.
Glad you found your problem. Just another example of looking for the simple things first!
Cheers
 
I ended up putting a dual H3 HID 6000K on my bike last week end.
The beams are separated: Lo or Lo+Hi.
It was hell to find space for 2 ballasts and I ended up squeezing everything.
Not as bright as the 55W but less heat.

That's what I did, except with dual H7 bulbs.
I was lucky the scoops I have had plenty of room for the relays and ballasts.
 
starter button when pressed cancels the 12 volts going to the headlight to maximize the voltage going to the starter , to make sure your engine starts without putting a strain on your electrical wiring
 
In fact the thing is;
Never ad amp to the original wiring, as much in automotive as on motorcycle.

On our Max the starter button as a tiny brass connector that goes off mecanicaly when starting, then goes back on.
This connector spark at every move when it`s over loaded from stock amp equipement.
Ans as so long for the hight/low switch

So, if you want to be safe from wiring fire and handle bar switch problems;
You should bring 12vlt fused line from battery, then two bosch light relays, one for starter light/cancel switch and one for .hight/low

You can ad a micro switch to cancel power to head light, to maximise power for cranking.

Ps.; check friend running double HID light, it was pulling 10,4 amp. three times stock head light consumption.
 
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Well I got my DDM Motorcycle HID Kit, 55W, H4 High / Low, 8000K kit today, I been waiting for it. I took the max apart to cram the extra wiring that is not needed. I took the headlight bucket off and opened the back of it up to allow the bigger HID bulb install. I also change front turns again, bigger same style 3 1/2 inches from 3/4 inch. I pulled all the wiring out of the headlight bucket that was not needed and tucked them up. I must say that the light even in the day time was much brighter. I did not take any photo of any of the install but it is plug and play for the most part. Other that cutting the back of the headlight bucket, under 2 hours to get it all in and button back up. I will edit this with a photo at night.
 
Well I got my DDM Motorcycle HID Kit, 55W, H4 High / Low, 8000K kit today, I been waiting for it. I took the max apart to cram the extra wiring that is not needed. I took the headlight bucket off and opened the back of it up to allow the bigger HID bulb install. I also change front turns again, bigger same style 3 1/2 inches from 3/4 inch. I pulled all the wiring out of the headlight bucket that was not needed and tucked them up. I must say that the light even in the day time was much brighter. I did not take any photo of any of the install but it is plug and play for the most part. Other that cutting the back of the headlight bucket, under 2 hours to get it all in and button back up. I will edit this with a photo at night.

I have been ending out numerous emails to find a good replacement bulb that matches the non-modification bulb that I have. I found a few, but waiting for final details before I make some purchases. I want to have a spare on hand for the day this bulb goes bad for swapout. I myself, do not care to do this cutout modification everyone else seems to be doing. I will eventually disclose my findings once my research is done.

Mike
 
Any issues with this kit cutting out? I was riding at night the other night and it would intermittently cut out. The light would flicker? I haven't tore into the housing yet but am thinking it may be a short somewhere. Just curious if it has happened to anyone else.
 
Yes I've went through 2 of them & they both started flickering & then just stay off. I'm starting to have voltage problem & I'm installing R1 r/r & checking my electrical system very soon.
 
I put in a set of relays from Eastern Beaver, and have all the light I need. The full 12v getting to the stock wattage bulb seems bright enough for me.. If I really want more light, I'd run a 80/100 watt bulb with the relays. I've used these bulbs before I did the relay mod, never had a problem with heat due to the higher wattage, but relaying the system might make things a bit hotter. Just a thought..
 

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